GFL Posted September 27, 2022 Report Share Posted September 27, 2022 Pete Be very careful with the Bonnet to Door gaps, yours look a bit tight, 5/16" is recommended with the rear of the doors to 'B' Posts set to 3/16" If you get the Front door to Bonnet gaps tight you will get paint chips for sure The Herald/Vitesse range never had tight panel gaps like some other period cars, due to the flexible method of construction! Not sure if you've seen this before the Standard Triumph service notes for building up the Body, it is very useful when setting gaps and adjusting things? Regards Gary Triumph Service Training Notes Herald Body.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted September 27, 2022 Report Share Posted September 27, 2022 4 hours ago, Gary Flinn said: Pete Be very careful with the Bonnet to Door gaps, yours look a bit tight, 5/16" is recommended with the rear of the doors to 'B' Posts set to 3/16" If you get the Front door to Bonnet gaps tight you will get paint chips for sure The Herald/Vitesse range never had tight panel gaps like some other period cars, due to the flexible method of construction! Not sure if you've seen this before the Standard Triumph service notes for building up the Body, it is very useful when setting gaps and adjusting things? Regards Gary Triumph Service Training Notes Herald Body.pdf 7.14 MB · 1 download The Bonnet gaps are not hard to open up, getting the lines to flow front to rear without big gaps to the cill was not easy though. Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted September 27, 2022 Report Share Posted September 27, 2022 4 minutes ago, PeteH said: The Bonnet gaps are not hard to open up My bonnet to door gaps are on the large side. I understand the adjustable rods are used to, well, adjust this?. Anything need loosening at the front pivot/hinge first?, to allow movement/adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 27, 2022 Report Share Posted September 27, 2022 Yes, you need to loosen the bolts under the overriders, and usually both, otherwise the rod will strain against them and you won't get a proper adjustment. I usually do it with a jack under each 'loop' of the bonnet support tube, this prevents the bonnet from dropping down at the front onto the chassis cross tube when the bolts are loosened. You then tighten the adjusting rods - undo the nut on either side of the centre threaded section, and turn as required. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted September 27, 2022 Report Share Posted September 27, 2022 24 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: Yes, you need to loosen the bolts under the overriders, and usually both Thanks, Is that, one each side? 25 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: I usually do it with a jack under each 'loop' of the bonnet support tube, Not had a look, though not sure what the bonnet support tube is?, is the loop obvious? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 27, 2022 Report Share Posted September 27, 2022 The two loops that curl under the front cross tube, and which attach to the brackets. These guys: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted September 27, 2022 Report Share Posted September 27, 2022 They look like two different ones?. From different cars?. The one on the left looks the same as the one on My 13/60?. Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 28, 2022 Report Share Posted September 28, 2022 i have always found the height links under the overider do swing when you adjust the tie rod turnbuckles but yes if they are lossened it must be easier , just be aware the bolt on the slotted hole in the droplinks will affect the bonnet height if you just undo it and it drops and then theres the old addage are the links the right way up or not from a engineering point the bonnet pivots on the single hole the height is adjusted to the chassis by the slotted holes many are opposite , some tubes have a crush tube some earlier do not you cant do a non tubed pivot up tight or you wont pivot the bonnet you cant have a loose pivot bolt in a slotted hole it will move on the first bump you find .........and so on Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted September 28, 2022 Report Share Posted September 28, 2022 I assumed this was the right way round?. with a crush tube inside the carrier?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted September 29, 2022 Report Share Posted September 29, 2022 On 26/09/2022 at 09:48, Nick Jones said: Yes. Problem is that there is nothing structural on the bulkhead to attach to, so something has to be created. Maybe this winter….. TBH that is something I have often thought about but getting the car back on the road is the priority, mods come later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now