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Starter motor wiring.


68vitesse

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Have a hi-torgue starter motor on my Vitesse and was thinking of doing away with the original solenoid and just using the one on the pre-engage unit. Heavy duty wire battery to starter and extend its solenoid connection to the ignition switch starter position wire. But the brown wire on the original solenoid would need extending to the battery positive terminal or the starter terminal because nothing would work.

Think I would just be making work for myself, could go with if it ain't broke don't fix it, or is there a benefit?.

Regards

Paul.

 

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30 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

i left mine in use on the Vit6 saves all the hassle of rewiring 

you could use the sol to connect the bat leads onto one terminal and extend   a new ign trigger line to the HT unit 

Pete

 

Had thought of that as half way house, never realised before that all the electrical circuits in the Vitesse are supplied by that one brown wire on the solenoid.

Regards

Paul

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Someone in these pages advised me to keep the original solenoid when I installed a Hi Torque starter as bypassing the original solenoid and wiring the ignition switch direct to the new starter put a lot higher load on the ignition switch greater than it is designed for, where as using the old solenoid to power the Hi Torque starter kept the same load on the ignition switch! I accepted the statement at face value and didn't do any calcs or measurements it seemed logical so I retained the status quo!

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I've not done any tests (never even considered fitting a Hi-Torque to any of mine as the standard ones work fine) but that claim sounds iffy to me. The original solenoid isn't a particularly efficient thing and actually draws quite a hefty current from the switch. A modern pre-engaged may be shifting a bit more mass but I'd expect it to draw a pretty similar current, or possibly even a tad less, due to better winding design.

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I started wired up with the original solenoid - until that failed in the engaged position, leading to a paniced dive into the boot to grab a spanner and disconnect the battery to stop it churning.

So I rewired to use the built in solenoid - but that started sticking in the disengaged position and needing a wack to wake it up, especially restarting when warm.

So I'm currently rewaired back to a new, original solenoid.

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Well I was out in the garage looking for a roll of masking tape just now and while I'm still empty handed (I made the mistake of tidying my garage last weekend) I DID find the Courier with the starter motor wiring article in it.

July 2013, Phil Willson's Herald 13/60 pages - https://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/uploaded_files/397 July 2013.pdf

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On my HT starter, there is a heavy duty terminal for the Big Red Cable that carries the 300 Amps.    And a Little Wire Lead, that connects to the starter button or ignition switch.   The BRC may be connected permanently to the battery.   When the LWL is energised, the solenoid fires the pinion at the starter ring, and when it's engaged, an internal switch energised the starter motor.

But mine, the LWL is on the BRC terminal.    And I have an original-type starter solenoid in the BRC, in the usual place.   When I hit the starter button, the OE solenoid connects the BRC to the starter, the starter solenoid throws the pinion and when it's engaged, the starter, er, starts!

Simples!

  • Haha 1
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