Jump to content

D type overdrive not working.


FranksVitesse

Recommended Posts

I took the vitesse out for a run the other day and the overdrive was working normally.I switched out at one point and when I tried to switch back in again nothing happened. It has always worked fine but suddenly stopped working. I can hear the solenoid click when the switch is operated and I have checked the gearbox oil level which is fine.

I would appreciate any ideas as to where to start looking before I go any further in the next few weeks.(Dont want to do anything too drastic yet as I need it for the next month or so)

Thanks Frank                                 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it definately the overdrive solenoid clicking, and not just the relay?

Most OD issues are electrical. So my first test is to check the voltage across teh OD solenoid (or a bulb across it, nice and easy to see if it works with the switch etc)

And yes, the canleys guide is ideal to have a read through.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, JohnD said:

See Canley Classics Technical Archive page: https://www.canleyclassics.com/?archive=the-d-type-overdrive

Excellent article by John Kipping though the last line says there’s no easy way of accessing the lower screw of the overdrive solenoid .Here’s my solution to remove the solenoid in situ by fitting an extended screw

2F556E48-80E7-4DC7-B211-3DE53139C51E.thumb.jpeg.2a8b2b04c1561f6bce4d57469e12041d.jpeg

 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have you tried hold the gear stick to one side  with your hand  if the inhibitor needs adjustment this can often identiy a simple fix to adjust the switch braket a bit 

if this is no help and tunnel is off  check with a bulb you do get 12v to the solenoid wire 

if ok  remove the side plate and see if the solenoid is pulling the lever inside  

no movement  ...solenoids   can get crudded up and the plunger/armature gets stuck  needs remove the sol and clean up

there is a setting for the lever assuming the sol is working when 'on' the lever has a 3/16" hole in and a similar hole in the case this is supposed to align use a drill shank

as a simple gauge thro the holes      any adjustment is turn the nut on the shaft    do not remove the end cap stop  thats normal wired in place 

most setting are quite simple to do 

do you have a column switch or one on the gear lever    as wires up the stick do faill very often due to heat and rubbing 

D types will have a relay that clicks mounted on the bulkhead  generally by the battery area , do double check your fuses and the state of the clips on the glass fuse ends 

normally fed from ignition and depending on who fitted wired may or maynot be linked to a fuse 

 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info. I removed the gearbox tunnel and removed side plate to the solenoid, solenoid is working, Ive checked the adjustment with a 3/16" pin and all was ok.

Is it possible the solenoid could have developed an internal fault and not operating correctly? Just wondering as it suddenly stopped working without any warning or symptoms.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

intermitent is generally a wiring fault or a failed inhibitor switch they can go a bit green inside 

one thats a bit more  unusual  on the top of the OD is a couple of nuts as a capped nut , undo and with care remove the small tube /ball and spring 

the tube has a very small hole /jet like in tis end this can get blocked with old debris   a poke with some fine wire will clean it , refit same way as it came apart 

this small hole feeds the oil pressure once the sol has pulled the lever ,  worth  a look when all the easy has not proved anything 

Pete

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Just an update. I have checked inside the filter housing and have found debris looking a bit like friction material.Not what I was hoping for! Looks like a recon unit will be required. Does anyone know if its possible to remove the overdrive unit on its own or does the gearbox need to come out? Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you lift the rear of the gear box you can slide the OD off the back , its   tight but  possible 

refiiting is the biggest snag as the hubs need to be aligned inside and you cant see what is blocking the refit

you need two big screwdrivers/levers and you lever the piston plates to open the clutch and it all flies on ,take cae you dont trap a finger

and read up about the aligning best run position marks on the 3 planet gears and their housing   or you will get some vibration set up .

they are not most obviuos with all the oil but need to be aligned carefully 

Pete

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

we did the vit6  on car once Cant remember why its obviously easier with the box off the car you can up end it and drop the OD down 

pry the plates open and pop it on ( the plate pry is approved and used by many known  OD   repairers 

J type is less fussy ,  you must read up the planet gear markings  and on refit get the pump cam on its lowers point for the pump roller to ride over it 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Me again! The overdrive has gone for reconditioning, the friction material was none existant. I have removed the gearbox to replace the clutch and inside the bell housing has a light covering of a black greasy deposit which I suspect is a mixture of dust from the clutch (just started to polish the rivets) and oil. The cluch plate is not contaminated. My question is this normal over a long period of time or should I be thinking of replacing oil seals in the front of the gearbox and rear of the engine block ? if so is it possible to change the rear engine seal with the engine in situ?

Thanks for any advice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can change the crank rear seal but mayneed to remove the back plate the oil seal hsg. is bolted and easy removed to swap out a seal dont need the engine out .

depends on age of gearbox as some have ascrroll trower later have a seal  

the oily depistis are quite normal over the years 

the gearbox front cover is a light tap fit in the clutch hsg, so can be removed if required 

if the throwout carrier has worn you can drill and add a split pin to reposition the anti rotation dimple/pins 

and its worth when refitting the clutch hsg  pop thespherical post out and add a washer to space it out a littlefuther to compensate and fork wear 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The thing with lip seals is that its not just usage that ages them but also years because the rubber hardens and loses flexibility so promoting leakage. As you have the gearbox out then unless you know they have been done fairly recently I would replace at least both back and front gearbox seals (you'll need a new paper gasket for the bell housing to main case joint).

The engine rear seal is more hassle as the flywheel and back plate will have to come off and then you might damage the sump gasket as you remove the seal carrier but, for the same reason as above, it would be nice know it was new😊   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just an update, I ended up removing the gearbox as well. The overdrive was rebuilt by Overdrive Repair Services in Sheffield (I can thoroughly recommend them) the friction material had totally disintegrated.I replaced the front gearbox bearings and counter shaft whilst I was waiting and also a new 3 piece clutch whilst I was at it.....All working again!

Thanks for all the advice it was a big help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, FranksVitesse said:

Just an update, I ended up removing the gearbox as well. The overdrive was rebuilt by Overdrive Repair Services in Sheffield (I can thoroughly recommend them) the friction material had totally disintegrated.I replaced the front gearbox bearings and counter shaft whilst I was waiting and also a new 3 piece clutch whilst I was at it.....All working again!

Thanks for all the advice it was a big help.

I was impressed with them too. Still haven’t got the unit they rebuilt in a car though!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...