Gully Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 Hi all, A minor issue in the grand scheme of things, but irritating all the same and I hope the collective knowledge here may be able to assist please... I / my car received a pair of new door cards from Park Lane Classics for Christmas. I fitted the first one yesterday (near side), only to find that whilst it looks great, I now can't close the door without an almighty shove! The tight area seems to be the bottom corner of the door (hinge end). Okay, there are wear marks on the originals where they have been sandwiched against the door seals, but I wouldn't have expected the difference I'm encountering. I will drop Owen at Park Lane a note too, but has anyone else encountered this and come up with a solution? Many thanks, Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 Envy! PLC are one of the few with the split vinyl and fabric facia, only one colour though I think? I suspect it only takes a little extra depth for it to be difficult to close the door. You could sand the back of the panel but, I wouldn't. It will ride up with wear, as my tailor used to say! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 The hinges are adjustable on the hinge to door screws. By loosening the screws you should be able to pull the bottom of the door out just enough to give the required clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 The other solution that would not affect door gaps is to pull the doorseal off the lip in the area, and bend teh lip back a little. I find a large adjustable spanner good for this, or a hammer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted December 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 Thanks all. Having gone back to the job in the daylight today (was racing dusk last night and an appointment with a pint at our local TSSC meeting!), I removed the new panel and still found the door tricky to close. Turns out a former piece inside the capping had been pushed upwards by the better fitting panel and was causing the issue. Bit of reshaping with the Stanley knife and the door card fitted without fettling. Still a little more difficult to close than before, but nothing that won't bed in. Just the driver's side to do now! Doug - yes, PLC do make the 'proper' repro split vinyl and fabric panels - that's what I have. Not sure about the colours, but my originals were black and so are the replacements. I've also managed to save and re-use the little silver capping on the door card - I'm sending Owen some detail pictures of those as whilst he knew of the capping trim, he'd never actually seen it. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 And when it comes to door shut loads , make sure you have the correct profile seal, not the giant balloon knock on's sold by too many and if it has one, the simple sprung slide wedge under the b post striker casting if these seize doors dont close easy, and if jammed can allow the door to lift and open on roundabouts. pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 Pete I purchased Furflex seals from Paddocks about a year ago - and my doors are still quite tight to shut - Do you have a picture of the correct section that should be used for small chassis? IS it different between Triumph cars? as Paddocks 724031M only sell a few different profiles to my knowledge so I have no idea if I have the right one Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 I thought the lip type seal was teh correct one for herald/vitesse, and the baloon type for spit GT6. However, no doubt many will be incorrect. The biggest issue with spit/GT6 is the rubbish design whereby the seal acts on the doorcard rather than the actual door. But not much we can do about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 Rarebits are showing the lip type for the gt6. There also seems to be some "squashed" or oval type bubble ones on the market. Mine are pretty circular. Would the lip type work on a gt6? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 As I have a vested interest, I'll chip in. For those who don't know me, I run Rarebits and supply these seals. The lip profile is correct for all Herald 1200 & 13/60, Vitesse, GT6 and Spitfires. There are subtle differences in the exact profile as multiple suppliers to Standard-Triumph were being used concurrently, but the bubble profile is never correct.Furflex finishers are correct for Mk3 GT6 and MkIV/1500 Spitfires. Herald 1200, 13/60, Vitesse and earlier Spitfire & GT6 all had a woven fabric finisher from the factory. The Rarebits seal is a good match for one of the OE lip profiles, however it is plain rubber. The original fabric finisher can be supplied for those who are sufficiently masochistic to put themselves through bonding it to the seal. Similarly, it seems the Furflex fabric is also available, however I've never handled it as no customer has ever asked... Not relevant to the car in question, but to complete the information offered, Herald 948s are a special case with most using seals unlike any used elsewhere in the Triumph range. There were several designs, all presumably less successful than the lip types which superceded them, Cheers, Bill. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 Received the new lip seals. So where do you place the join? Top bottom A post or B post? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted January 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 This thread's taken an interesting direction! I'd never considered I may have the wrong door seals as mine look worn enough to be original - Furflex finished, but a thin balloon seal profile. They've clearly been in place a long time and look 'period' so were clearly replaced at some point in the car's life. With regards to the join point, mine are jointed in the middle of the sill. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
euan douglas Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 Sorry to barge in on this topic but I'm interested because my Mk3 gt6 doesn't seem to have any seals around the edge of the door cards. Where and how exactly do these seals go and how do they fit to the door?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 Doan. It may be the descriptions above that have fooled you a bit. The seal fits around the door aperture no the door itself. I can't believe your car would not have any it would be pretty drafty. !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 Sorry euan typing on this plays havoc with its spell check!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 Sorry euan typing on this plays havoc with its spell check!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
euan douglas Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 Aidan Thanks for that. Yes, the previous posts did confuse me, must be my age! The aperture does have seals. Euan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 As originally supplied, the seals were joined at the top rear corner, each end bevelled to 45 degrees. The original seals were reinforced with a right-angled piece of steel inserted in either end of the locating 'u' section to hold it all together. Sealing here relies on a close fit, be sure that the surfaces meet properly and use a rubber adhesive if available, Cheers, Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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