cliff.b Posted May 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2023 Ok, cylinder head reinstalled with mini style flanged nuts. I discovered these need a 14mm socket and not 9/16 🙄 After I have refitted everything else and got it running, should I warm it up on the drive then re-torque or should I drive it around for a few miles before doing so? Or should I do both? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted May 24, 2023 Report Share Posted May 24, 2023 1 hour ago, cliff.b said: After I have refitted everything else and got it running, should I warm it up on the drive then re-torque or should I drive it around for a few miles before doing so? Or should I do both? Just happened ot be reading a 1959 edition of Practical Motorist in the bath (I really need to get up to date with my periodicals). Anyhow, standard recommendation was to torque head on assembly and then hot at 500 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff.b Posted May 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2023 4 minutes ago, chrishawley said: Just happened ot be reading a 1959 edition of Practical Motorist in the bath (I really need to get up to date with my periodicals). Anyhow, standard recommendation was to torque head on assembly and then hot at 500 miles. Thanks for that. Sounds sensible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff.b Posted May 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2023 (edited) Hmm, I have a nasty feeling I must have screwed things up in some way. Everything back together but decided to do a compression test before trying to start up and not only are the figures low, the pressure fades away slowly after I stop cranking. Just wondering if there is any possibility that this is because I am doing it when cold, but suspect I am grasping at straws 😒 Every cylinder is about the same. Edited May 26, 2023 by cliff.b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannyb Posted May 26, 2023 Report Share Posted May 26, 2023 It should be done cold. The gauge should hold whatever reading the compression registers. Is the gauge faulty/Leaking. Danny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff.b Posted May 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2023 2 hours ago, dannyb said: It should be done cold. The gauge should hold whatever reading the compression registers. Is the gauge faulty/Leaking. Danny Yes, I have sat down and had a think and realise the gauge should hold whatever pressure is achieved, so my fears of compression leakage are probably a fault with the gauge. Regarding the lower reading, I first thought that if the gauge has developed a fault then that might explain the lower reading. Last time I did a test it was done warm and all 4 cylinders gave a reading of almost exactly 150. Now, after fitting the new gasket and tested cold they gave readings between about 135 and 145. My main concern though was the pressure falling away which I now presume I can ignore? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff.b Posted May 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2023 Thinking I probably wiped any oil that was on the bores off when I was cleaning stuff. Squirted little through each plughole and now getting in the region of 175psi. Decided to try starting it although exhaust not connected yet. VID_20230526_171827.mp4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 26, 2023 Report Share Posted May 26, 2023 if the gauge looses its best reading its the non return valve of the gauge thats leaking, they are often just a tyre valve in the gauge head they are not that special Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff.b Posted May 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2023 9 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: if the gauge looses its best reading its the non return valve of the gauge thats leaking, they are often just a tyre valve in the gauge head they are not that special Pete It is only a cheap one. Will have a look at it some time and see if anything can be done. But need to get my exhaust fitted first and then might be able to make a car meet on Sunday morning 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff.b Posted May 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2023 Exhaust re-connected and run up to temperature ok. Then out for a gentle test drive. About 5 miles and no problems so far 🤞 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff.b Posted May 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2023 About 40 mike's now & all seems well. Here is a pic of the old gasket. One water gallery hole is misshapen towards the fire ring on the affected cylinder so presume that's where it failed. Is the blackening around the fire rings usual or does that indicate some leakage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 28, 2023 Report Share Posted May 28, 2023 it indicates the head was "loose" lack of clamping lets compressions escape all over the place past the fire rings which should be clean and shiny all down to soft washers Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff.b Posted May 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2023 12 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: it indicates the head was "loose" lack of clamping lets compressions escape all over the place past the fire rings which should be clean and shiny all down to soft washers Pete Thanks Pete. I was wondering if that was the case but no experience to fall back on. Hopefully the new flanged nuts will stop it happening again 🤞 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted May 28, 2023 Report Share Posted May 28, 2023 1 hour ago, cliff.b said: Thanks Pete. I was wondering if that was the case but no experience to fall back on. Hopefully the new flanged nuts will stop it happening again 🤞 I used the flanged nuts when I rebuilt my engine - like them a lot - designed for the Metro MG Turbo I believe - or at least they used them! Got mine from Minispares from memory Classic Mini CAM4545 - Mini Spares Onlne Shop - I appreciate the link is of no use to you Cliff, but someone may be hunting for some later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff.b Posted May 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2023 4 minutes ago, Anglefire said: I used the flanged nuts when I rebuilt my engine - like them a lot - designed for the Metro MG Turbo I believe - or at least they used them! Got mine from Minispares from memory Classic Mini CAM4545 - Mini Spares Onlne Shop - I appreciate the link is of no use to you Cliff, but someone may be hunting for some later! Yes, likewise. And also, for the benefit of anyone else fitting them, the heads are 14mm AF, not 9/16". Don't ask me how I found that out lol. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff.b Posted July 5, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2023 As I have just said on another thread, I will shortly be doing my re-torque and as advised, was planning on doing this with the engine warm. But this seems to be yet another of those things where there is a difference in opinion. So just wondered if anyone has anything definitive that clarifies this or if not, any compelling reasoning one way or the other? I presume if warm the studs would expand, thereby lowering the clamping pressure, but wouldn't the specified torque take account of this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 5, 2023 Report Share Posted July 5, 2023 With the mk1 six cylinder you have to take the manifolds off to get to some of the head bolts so surely it cant be done very hot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff.b Posted July 5, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2023 10 minutes ago, johny said: With the mk1 six cylinder you have to take the manifolds off to get to some of the head bolts so surely it cant be done very hot! I will take that as a vote for cold then 🥶 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 6, 2023 Report Share Posted July 6, 2023 I should have done it like that but never got round to a retorque and now over 25 years later seems a bit pointless.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff.b Posted July 6, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2023 1 hour ago, johny said: I should have done it like that but never got round to a retorque and now over 25 years later seems a bit pointless.... I did wonder if the engines got re-torqued after they were assembled in the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 10, 2023 Report Share Posted July 10, 2023 On 06/07/2023 at 07:48, cliff.b said: I did wonder if the engines got re-torqued after they were assembled in the factory. its not a operation ive seen mentioned in any triumph manual or service schedule but it might be hiding somewhere in a !st sevcice in general its pretty pointless Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted July 10, 2023 Report Share Posted July 10, 2023 On 24/05/2023 at 16:29, AlanT said: I use a wood chisel. The rumbling I just heard. was probably Father, Capenter and Shipwright, spinning in his grave at the abuse of woodworking tools.😂😁🤞. The sort of behaviour I would have got a thick ear for as a youngster☹️. Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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