Peter Truman Posted April 20 Report Share Posted April 20 Similarly I use the bonnet locks on both the Spit & Vitesse to stop the catch's opening whilst driving. Your bonnet catch's are in extremely good condition are the NOS, if so who was the supplier please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted April 21 Author Report Share Posted April 21 Sorry but no info on the bonnet catches. It was a year 2000 restoration and i purchased beginning of last year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted April 21 Author Report Share Posted April 21 (edited) Drive it day today. So with my son in law in his Caterham poottled off to The Pride and Joy show at Exbury in the New Forest. Few photos. On the way home could hear a rumbling / knocking / soft rhythmical noise from rear offside. Could be nothing but could be looking at rear hub , driveshaft, uj overhaul. Oh well....... Triumph the gift that gives on giving. To be continued. Edited April 21 by Richeee 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted April 30 Author Report Share Posted April 30 Yesterday crammed myself into the passenger seat of my son in laws Caterham , introducing him to my classic friendly MOT tester. Laff that was at 6'3 19st. Then trussed up with a racing harness. Not a pretty sight. Any way mot achieved. Fog light needed a wiggle but all good. Got a bit of an advisory on front swivel. Ball joint on top and swivel to press into bottom wishbone. They will be done next week or so. Our garage is superb. Any advisory he advises we do straight away. Today my brother popped over with some of my nephew gear. My brother is emigrating to Cyprus to wind away his retirement round a pool with a beer. His boy is staying with me before moving into digs next week. Any way hes been clearing out his garage. So i aquired some of my own tools back again. Also one of those bucket grit bladters. Halfords 20 50 oil, grit blasting gun. And a gunsons gas tester. Happy days. Back to decorating. My spit is on show at Goodwood this weekend for the Breafast meeting along side my son in laws Caterham. Will have to get polish out. To be continued. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted April 30 Author Report Share Posted April 30 (edited) Not me. Im just a bit larger in height and girth. Fortnately roof was off. Edited April 30 by Richeee 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted May 5 Author Report Share Posted May 5 Driving back from Goodwood today got in a bit of a pickle with my gearbox. Stuck in 3rd i thought but did not quite realise what was going on. As i drove on after a bit of brute force and ignorance ( goes with the moonraker terrority ) began to suspect that the gear lever was not sprung one way or the other. I.e. 1st 2nd or 3rd 4th. And i may have just been stirring porridge and confused it. Can any body remind / inform me if the spitfire 1500 gearbox has a location spring on the gearbox and should it be first 2nd or 3rd 4th. After i thought about it and made deliberate concious gear selection it seemed to be ok. Next job is to remove the tunnel anyway to sort out the speedo cable any way. So can have a butchers whilst there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 7 Report Share Posted May 7 No spring I know of on gear lever. In neutral it moves from side to side freely so you push it as far left as possible and forwards for first and back for second. Then you push it to the right as far as it'll go and forward for third with fourth being straight back. If it doesnt work like this theres something wrong, wear in linkage, bent components, poorly adjusted reverse stop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted May 8 Author Report Share Posted May 8 Thank you. Thought that was the case. But the mind plays trick. As i said got to remove tunnel to fit new speedo cable to overdrive right andle drive as ham fisted hands broke the clip on the speedo cable connection behind the dash. Will at the same time check the clutch hydraulics and fit a new servo. Linkage etc will be checked. May have been momentary blip. Thank you for confirming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 8 Report Share Posted May 8 The single rail unit the 1500 should have is normally really positive on gearchanges compared with the earlier type which has bushes that being much mnore exposed regularly wear out.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted May 8 Report Share Posted May 8 18 hours ago, johny said: Then you push it to the right as far as it'll go and forward for third with fourth being straight back. If you do that in my single rail O/D box in my Herald you will find yourself in Reverse. Doesn`t seem to be any sort of "gate" between 3rd and reverse. S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 8 Report Share Posted May 8 wow that sounds a bit dangerous! Never had a single rail but this gear knob from a Spitfire 1500 shows how it should work.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 8 Report Share Posted May 8 the single rail remote housing has a spring plunger/detent to provide the resistance to pressing right of the 3/4th gate and then fwd. to engage reverse Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted May 29 Author Report Share Posted May 29 (edited) What with decorating house for selling and downsizing, retiring and other domestic duties my spannering this year had been severely restricted. But house is now done. Or rather it is for as much as im going to do, and so whilst waiting to list it and gathering valuations knew it was spanner time. With trips to the inter club weekend and a few further days booked over the border and then Sept the All Triumph Day at Shuttleworth with some more days tagged on to go to Duxford, some over due jobs need doing. Time to put this into this New speedo cable. To fit to overdrive. New tunnel. New servo whilst im in there. Also have ordered a new Caliber radio which has integral speakers and so need to look at wiring. Convert 12v socket so its relayed and will not drain the battery if i do my normal trick and leave the sat nav on. A further job is a minor rumbling from the rear right wheel areas. So new trunnion and bearings. See how much i get done in next few days. Seats out and loose carpets. Center console trims. The tunnel carpet had been cut about by the previous owner. Bit of a shame really. He built a box behind the seats to house 2 speakers. Then cut carpet to thread wires etc. This box went as soon as i got the car as it restricted rear ward movement of the seat . Needed at 6ft 3 in a Spit. My new radio has integral speakers. Good enough for me as half deaf in left anyway. So long as i can get sports im fine. The tunnel was mastic'd down with so much stuff it was unbelievable. Ok a small bead perhaps but it was smoothered on like plaster. But there again no water ingress Over all rhe tunnel was not to bad. But new one being fitted and i broke it getting it out. Brute force against all that mastic. The floor was not too bad. No rust holes and was not expecting any. So cleaned the floor up and gave it a good dollop of Rustoleum Black combicolour as it may well be a few years before the inside is seen again. To be continued. Edited May 29 by Richeee 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted May 31 Author Report Share Posted May 31 Right bit of quick knowledge pinching required. In.process of changing servo. But the existing one was lying horizontal and had an additional groove. Looks hand made. So the clutch servo was further in. Just wondering why this might be. ? Have i got the new wrong.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannyb Posted May 31 Report Share Posted May 31 When I replaced mine some years back, I had to grind the groove to get it to go forward more into the bell housing to get the clutch to disengaged. Danny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted May 31 Author Report Share Posted May 31 Thank you. I have now fitted the new one. In.the supplid groove. Clutch bite is at the bottom 1 inch or so of travel. I can see if my logic is correct that if the slave was further in then clutch engagement would happen sooner. Before i reinstall the tunnel i will road test. And i might cut a groove further along. Thanks again quick reply. I will be creating access doors in the new tunnel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted May 31 Author Report Share Posted May 31 (edited) Hi. Thanks to Danny above. Today was after lunch intending to quickly put the new speedo cable in, top up the gearbox oil and swap over the servo. One job was easy. One was an absolute s%d and the other opened a can of worms. Gear box oil easy. Using my catheter syringe. (Purchased for oil not its original intention.) Topped up the gearbox with about 150ml of oil. The smell of gear oil is lovely. Reminds me of hydraulic oil on the farm tractors from my childhood. Then had a go at replacing my speedo cable. That job was an absolute nightmare. My hands far to big and ending up removing the center facia, tacho, hazard light switch (the ring to locate took ages to relovate afterwards) in order to get access. Found the cable was completely broken inside and out. I knew i had broken the little locating tag on the speed end when last in their sorting stuff. Not sure howbthe cable was completely broken. 🤔 Anyway eventually new sorted. Still needs a test drive though. Then moved onto the clutch. Saw it was horizontal. Not great for bleeding but thought that was how they were. On removing fully found it had been.modified by grinding an additional groove. Danny pointed me in the right direction and it seems that extra grooves or elongating the groove is used to vary clutch bite. To be honest had not noticed where my clutch bite was before starting to renew the slave cylinder. My existing was not malfunctioning. I was just replacing whilst the tunnel was off as preventative measures. Now considering what to do. As in last post I have fitted the new slave in the supplied groove position and bled. Tomorrow will quickly throw the seat and belts back in and have a spin round the village. Seeing if speedo works and assessing clutch bite. Possibly i may modify new as per the original, and try that. Also reading up, need to check it seems the clutch pedal and master for any sloppiness. When thats sorted can start on fitting the new tunnel.with plenty of access plates for , oil, servo and speedo. To be continued. Edited May 31 by Richeee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted May 31 Report Share Posted May 31 4 hours ago, Richeee said: Thank you. I have now fitted the new one. In.the supplid groove. Clutch bite is at the bottom 1 inch or so of travel. I can see if my logic is correct that if the slave was further in then clutch engagement would happen sooner. Before i reinstall the tunnel i will road test. And i might cut a groove further along. You could fit a longer operating shaft between clutch lever and slave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 31 Report Share Posted May 31 Does it make much difference? A hydraulic system always takes up any freeplay so the pedal always acts the same whatever you do as long as you dont get to the end of travel of either master or slave of course... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted May 31 Report Share Posted May 31 I’d say the p/o was bodging as they couldn’t bleed the cylinder properly! I recommend removing the slave cylinder from the bellhousing, either by pulling it out the adapter or by just unbolting the adaptor from the bellhousing. Then support it so the bleed nipple is the highest point, then bleed it, then reinstall with the bleed nipple still at the top and the pipe from the master going in to the lower fitting. They’re really hard to bleed properly in the fitted position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 31 Report Share Posted May 31 Yes you can have a long or short rod, move the slave in and out but the pedal and master will stay exactly the same so when you press it the same amount of fluid as always is moved to give exactly the same bite point.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 1 Report Share Posted June 1 you really need to bleed the slave by pushing the piston back inside as far as it will go this reduces the volume in the slave nd aids air removal with nipple at the top , long rods and silly new grooves are a complete myth Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted June 2 Author Report Share Posted June 2 Thank you Peter. Went for a spin. Clutch bite in bottom quarter. Removed the slave and mounting from bell housing pushed the piston fully in with a pencil. Held at 45 so bleed screw deffinetly highest. Kept the piston fully in and with my third hand. Pushed the clutch pedal down with a crow bar. Much improved. Thank you. Bite point now just over 1/2 way. Better feel. My set up now back to standard. Not sure why it had the additional groove. But your method worked fine. Ta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 2 Report Share Posted June 2 good when the simple cheap fix works well pleased it helped Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted June 2 Author Report Share Posted June 2 The brake slave was supposed to be a quick change over as preventative maintenance, did not expect it to take a life of its own. Todays main event was the new tunnel with access hatches. First off just tried the bare tunnel in place to see what clashes or difficulties there might be. Only thing really was that the mounting screws in the floor looked like 10 mm out. But would see how i got on. It was probably the lip that was present in the new moulding. This lip also prevented the seal from sealing as it was too thin. I had previously noted this and had purchased some 20mm foam to take up the gap. Initially applied a couple of bits of foam to front upstand, put the tunnel.back in place. Used the screws and clips to pull forward and marked through the screw holes with a pencil dipped in paint to see where the cover wanted to naturally sit. Then noticed the Tunnel would make me infertile. Oh Well. Nothing to worry about for an old widower approaching retirement. Elongated the holes in the tunnel ny 10mm and trial fitted all the fittings. Next off access holes for clutch, speedo connection ( the reason it all started ) and oil. Marked out. Cut out then pop rivetted the cut out piece to 6 inch 1mm alluminium and fitted with a mastic bead to seal and spire clips with self tappers Fun now really began with sound deadening and silver tape. Yes. On the inside not underneath. Did not really trust it not to fall off Well thats its folks for today. To be continued. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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