chrishawley Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 The relationship between the the buffer cones and the catches can get quite complicated and long-winded: But leaving those complexities aside a simplification would be..... ...If the panel fit between the bonnet trainling egde to the scuttle and doors is good then is might be preferable to adjust the catch striker plates rather than the cones. The striker is held by two 1/4 unf setscres (7/16th AF socket) and if loosened a quarter of a turn allow for quite a good range of up/down movement. A few minutes experimentation should find a position where the catches close with a comfortably firm feel, but not tight or bound up. What can happen is that adjusting the tension on the catches to be firm enough can upset the alignemnt of the bonnet in which case more detailed adjustments are needed. But for now let's assume that won't be the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 I found that bonnet catches coming open was best cured with new catches, I happened to find some new old stock ones (still with green wax) replaced and they have never come open since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 and grease up the roller on the latch these can seize and wear a flat on the cam that the roller runs can wear and its possible to file a better contour the latch rivets can be drilled out the free worn seized rollers replace with simple nut and bolt just have a look that rollers actually work as you close the latch agree with Chris the hooks are adjustable , set the cones to level/align the bonnet top then move the J plate to tension the latch, you cant bend the J plate its hardened. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 On 12/09/2023 at 09:51, Richeee said: Coming back from Goodwood lost my Speedo. It will be the fact that i broke the plastic clip on the cable last time i was under there. So will need to replace. Doing searches and reading it apprars the best way is to remove the tunnel for the over drive end and whilst there cut an access for oil level plug. Replacing the tunnel with a plastic version and sticky sound mat. Any advice? Is it possible to replace speedo cable on overdrive with out removing the tunnel.? Might be a bit late now, but i would also cut a large access panel for the clutch slave cylinder for when it leaks, cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted January 4 Author Report Share Posted January 4 Thank you all for advice re catches and centre tunnel. I Had a knocking sound due to a disintegrating cones and so raised the cone to stop knocking. I will replace the cones and adjust. Believe i have too tight, but noted other comments as well. Not too late for a clutch servo access. This job still to be done. not fixed the speedo yet. Waiting for spring. Thanks for advice. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 I've fitted bonnet locks to both the Vitesse & Spitfire that stops the catch's unlatching, the easy or bodge solution I could never get the right tension on the catch and cones! Anyway it's added security . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 5 Report Share Posted January 5 depends whats wrong with the speedo cable but you can replace the inner using the old outer unless its broken and you cant retrieve the failed bit . and a good heavy shove of the bonnet rearwards or forwards will /can slide the latch out of the bulkhead hook and up she goes Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted January 5 Report Share Posted January 5 (edited) 15 hours ago, Richeee said: will replace the cones and adjust. Believe i have too tight, but noted other comments as well. Just a small thing, I got new cones, thread turned out to be metric. Nuts on GT6 are captive Imperial, so new cones no good. I think the nuts on your car aren’t captive, but the cones don’t come with nuts so you may need new metric nuts. Club shop sell Imperial thread cones. Doug Edited January 5 by dougbgt6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 5 Report Share Posted January 5 Doug loves his Imperial (not a Humber) but has he got Imperial soap ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted January 5 Report Share Posted January 5 Imperial Leather soap? Yup, none of this Metric Leather rubbish! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 5 Report Share Posted January 5 Im very pleased to hear that i didnt want to visualise any Bubbles Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted January 5 Report Share Posted January 5 Don’t call me bubbles! well, only at the weekends. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted January 5 Author Report Share Posted January 5 6 hours ago, dougbgt6 said: Just a small thing, I got new cones, thread turned out to be metric. Nuts on GT6 are captive Imperial, so new cones no good. I think the nuts on your car aren’t captive, but the cones don’t come with nuts so you may need new metric nuts. Club shop sell Imperial thread cones. Doug Thank you for the advice and tips on the cones that is, may be not the soap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted January 5 Report Share Posted January 5 2 hours ago, Richeee said: Thank you for the advice and tips on the cones that is, may be not the soap. Never underestimate lubricant’s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted January 6 Report Share Posted January 6 On 05/01/2024 at 13:45, dougbgt6 said: Don’t call me bubbles! Shirley Bubbles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted January 7 Author Report Share Posted January 7 Yesterday managed to replace the cones. The top nuts were captive but fortunately my replacements were the correct thread. Learnt a bit from the advice given above. The original were won through and so was replaced. The locating plates on the bulkhead were adjusted to match the cones. The height was adjusted so that the bonnet and bulkhead were alligned. And the catches on the bulkhead adjusted so that the cathes now operate snugly and dont bounce open. Or thats the plan. The catches themselves did not appear to be in bad condition at all. Time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham C Posted January 12 Report Share Posted January 12 Well done. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted March 12 Author Report Share Posted March 12 Been a while on this one. Getting ready for new season. Well in my mind and buying parts. To fix my speedo tunnel coming out. So whilst out new tunnel going in. Delivered today new shiny bits. 'My precious' Basically after advice from those who have done befor. Have read some threads but could do with thoughts. At the front is a return lipping. Presumably for strength. But is deeper than new seal. Does this need to come off so that the seal can be compressed or is it a mastic job To fill the gap. Ditto underneath lip. Although this might return either side of floor upstand. Dodo matting underneath or on top. Underneath would seem the better place , does it adhere in the long term. Half thinking of belt and braces and using blank pop rivets and washers as well for additional support. Whilst doing it will as previously suggested try and add cover plates for speedo drive. Oil filler and clutch bleeding.? Any other holes required. Wont be happening for a few weeks but trying to get prepared so fitting time will be as short as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 12 Report Share Posted March 12 i have always used a slab of upolstery foam and cut it in strips glued to the tunnel use around 18mm thickness takes up all the wonky gaps . some have to cut the return off to get a fit . on the front facing i reversed the bolt which i added a nut to make a stud ,then wing nuts on the inside . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimpus Posted March 19 Report Share Posted March 19 (edited) I got the same tunnel, I used EPDM foam tape for mine. Nothing comes past it ! Also handy to make access panels for clutch slave change and gearbox oil top up. Edited March 19 by wimpus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 19 Report Share Posted March 19 I got similar for my GT6 the lip is at the front and on the bottom, it's a nuisance! I contemplated grinding it off, but I think the tunnel would loose rigidity. I just doubled up the seal, which in the end was draught excluder tape. The fixing kit is a waste of money, the seal is too shallow and I've already got the strange washers from the original cover. I cut a round hole to access the gearbox oil and got a round plastic bung off Ebay. I lined the tunnel interior with SilientCoat to reduce heat and sound. Got it all back together and thought "Better try the gearbox access" . Worked fine, but no additional oil needed, I've got the only non-leaking Triumph gearbox ever built! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimpus Posted March 19 Report Share Posted March 19 Oh and an interesting fact.. The tunnel is actually made by Clarck & Clarck Industries USA. When I bought mine, i asked Robert Clarck (the owner) if this tunnel was made by him. He told me yes and that he sells them to James Paddock, Moss etc etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcevedy Posted April 1 Report Share Posted April 1 Just to say that I am finding this thread a wonderful read - makes me remember doing odd things to my car over the years - the fuel sender was a complete pain - has taken me 25 years to get it to read in a way that is slightly useful! Impressed you fit in though - I am just over 6'1" and have the seat right back and just fit - definitely better with the roof down though and extra inch of height on the windscreen would be nice functionally if not aesthetically! Not had the car out this year yet - but nearly yesterday - today has been a wash out though. Mine is completely non standard but is the way I like it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted April 2 Report Share Posted April 2 On 01/04/2024 at 20:15, mcevedy said: Just to say that I am finding this thread a wonderful read - makes me remember doing odd things to my car over the years - the fuel sender was a complete pain - has taken me 25 years to get it to read in a way that is slightly useful! Impressed you fit in though - I am just over 6'1" and have the seat right back and just fit - definitely better with the roof down though and extra inch of height on the windscreen would be nice functionally if not aesthetically! Not had the car out this year yet - but nearly yesterday - today has been a wash out though. Mine is completely non standard but is the way I like it! Good excuse to get the car out next Sunday, it’s the North East area meet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richeee Posted April 20 Author Report Share Posted April 20 Been a bit quiet on Triumph front lately both with my Herald restoration and my 1500 Spitfire. Life, falling of platform in garden whilst headge cutting. Holiday. Man flu and doing the house up for listing has cramped my style. But in spring a mans thougts turn to ............ cars...... Last trip out my Spitfire popped its bonnet catches and no matter what i do to adust one of them still does. So time to fit bonnet catch locks. Canleys instructions followed. Love the bit 'shape the hole as dimensioned' . First off masking tape and mark up. First hole i drilled was a 3mm pilot folloed by 16mm drill. Problem was the drill was too course dragged itself into the hole and bent the edges of the hole a tad. Not to bad and rectifyable and resolved to use a stepped drill on other side. Eventually shaped the hole with a file and painted ecposed edges couple of times whilst drilled the other side. Applied plenty of grease as well and placed lock in place and tightened the backing nut. The other side hole with the stepped drill went a lot better. Finally finished off and look.and work fine. Also fitted a new battery. This was a story as ordered a Lucas classic for aesthetics. But the supplier just sent a standard branded one. I know that the basic battery is the same but wanted a lucas label. Took 7 emails to get the supplier to collect and refund. Anyway eventually got my ' Prince of darkness' labelled battery. To be continued. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now