My Spitfire 1500.

[Josef]

As I’ve just evicted my Herald’s engine from its rightful place, here’s a photo of the engine drain point,

[Mjit]

Herald, so 'early' and fitted with a drain tap.  1500 will be in the same location but just a bolt head.

[Richeee]

Got round today after fitting tow bar on my polo yesterday to reflushing the spit.

The drain plug  was loose.!!  The washer disintegrated and as you guys expected no water at first until i poked around with wire.

Lots of flushing after this.

From my ebay box of washers managed to find one to fit.

And added washing soda.

First tried pouring dry into rad and adding water.    That was not to successful.

Just solidified like a plug.   Instead dissolved in a beaker and added as a solution.   The beaker was getting warm as i mixed it.  Couple of mugfulls of powder went in.

Will run for a bit then repeat.

The previous owner being a chippy had lined the boot with carpet covered boarding.  And a board to go over the spare wheel floor.   This created a couple of tool hide aways either side.  Not massive but enough once i had decanted tools into carrier bags inside soft canvas bags.

On another issue the gas strutts i fitted proving excellent. Bonnet goes up smoothly and squarely and down again all under control.  

To be continued.

 

 

[Richeee]

Took car for spin yesterday to circulate the washing soda in its coolant system.    

As doing so it started to missfire quite badly, when it got hot.    Under load. Previpusly mentioned a slight missfire when warm. This getting worse and annoying.   Also noticed the rev counter working and then not working erractically.   

Reading up , researching leads me to the coil and or ignition system.  Coil has take off to tacho.   Just suspicious. 

I had already purchased a new ballast coil , accuspark distributor plugs and leads. Not yet fitted and will be adding  Adding a 12v feed to the distributor as per other posting.

So my next job will be to swap these out and a bit of timing.   See if this eradicates it.  

Whilst under the bonnet tried to locate a noise from the front of the engine. Its a bearing packing up type noise.   More or a alternator or water pump fan noise than engine. (Not that paranoid just yet) so have ordered new pump and belt.    The earlier static type.   Have a 1500 fan blades knocking about i can swap out for the viscous couplings ones.

So intention is to change the pump before final refill with antifreeze.

To be continued.

Edited June 17, 2023 by Richeee

[Josef]

It is possible for the electronic tachos (RVC type) fitted to the Spitfire to kill the engine if they break (in effect they short out the coil). So disconnecting at the coil is a worthwhile test before you swap anything out. 

[Richeee]

Thank you.    I will try that.

Im swapping out coil anyway as suspect its 45 years old , but will disconnect the tacho at the coil and take for a test drive first to ascertain the relationship between coil and tacho as you say.

[Richeee]

Sorry for yet more ballast coil voltage questions.  Especially when i thought i understood it.

Measuring voltage at end of ballast resistor. Wire disconnected from coil. White yellow cut.   Ignition on engine not running i get 13.2v.

I thought i should only get 9 or so.   

Connect the ballast coil to positive side of coil i get 10v with engine running.

Rising to 11 volts with reving.

its now running an accuspark electronic distributor thats connected to a seperate 12v supply now. White wire take off after ignition switch so getting full voltage as required by accuspark.  

But really my question is how is 13v getting through ballast wire.   ?  Somebody has obviously been there in before me.   Easy to see by state of replacement fuse box.

I snipped the white and yellow to the coil in a moment of stress as i was trying to eliminate that back feeding the ballast.   Which it i understand it does when starter motor is spinning.

Just fitted a new ballasted coil but with those voltages wondering if non ballasted is better.

Maybe im just confused.

 

 

[johny]

Electrical resistance is just that, it resists FLOW of electrons so if theres no flow as you had when the wire was disconnected theres no resistance and you get full voltage at the end. Its like a water pipe thats shut off by a valve, it can be a huge pipe or a thin tube but the pressure (voltage) will be the same. However when you open the valve the large pipe will allow a lot of water to flow while a small one will restrict the flow to a dribble...

The voltage youre measuring when running is an average of when electrons are flowing (points or electronic ignition closed so resistance effective) and not flowing (points or electronic ignition open so resistance non effective).

[Richeee]

Thank you loads.   So may be all ok. 

Thank you.

[Richeee]

Ignition now sorted.  Thankyou Johny for the advise on the coil voltages.   

Accuspark installed. New ballast coils and new leads.   Did not install new iridium plugs even though i have some. Not sure there compatible and will double check the tip conditions before tuning carbs. Installed a 12v white supply to the electronic distributor and added an inline fuse.   The missfire has disapperared and the tacho seems to be behaving itself.

A week or so ago had began flushing and added washing soda to the coolant system.

This shows up small holes in the top hose. With washing soda seeping through.

Theres a rumbling / rattly noise from the front of the engine probably i thought viscous fan, water pump , alternator or timing chain.  So i thought as its a keeper might as well change the pump whilst at it.

Also fitted a new fan. Getting rid of the viscous one. 

Whilst at it thought i would double check the thermostat. Big mistake.   The housing was held on with silicon. No gasket and thread stripped on a bolt.   Fortunatly it was the side where i could put a bolt and nut on through the whole housing.    Cut a gasket from some gasket paper that knocking around and put back together. Forgetting the working thermostat. Unbolted and started again. 

Eventually had a flushed out system two new hoses and a non leaking system hopefully.

Also fitted 2 new black and silver number plates.    The front one I lowered from just under the bumper where it acted as a shutter to stop the air getting to the radiator and installed on the lower spoiler.

Must admit that i do like the black and silver plates.  Really fitting of an older car.

Also fitted the radiator valences that came in the boot and a non standard lemonade bottle to the carb overflows.   Did the same with my previous Tr7.   Get a smell of petrol which tbh i enjoy, but also suspect the needle valves might be sticking.    Will check the bottle after runs.

Now put over 250 miles on it in the few weeks I,ve had it which is more than the previous owner in the past 4 years.

First major trip out will be to the Goodwood Members breakfast meeting which will be a 100 mile round trip in 26.c temp.   

At present my temp gauge reads from half and and uo to 3/4 when pushed hard butnthen held up in traffic for 10 mins.  

I know it subjective and depends on individual guages and senders calibration, but what do others read on their temp gauges when pootling on back roads and then when pushed.   ?    

To be continued.

[Josef]

My Herald has always had a temp reading of ‘in the middle’, unless sat at idle in hot weather, then it starts to creep up. The Spitfire is similar, though that does have a full width rad.

[GrahamB]

I thought that only vehicle constructed prior to 1973 were permitted to display black number plates.  On checking my facts, I found that the law has changed and now vehicles constructed prior to 1980 can display black plates provided that they are also registered as Historic. Whether anyone would bother provided that the black plates are on an "old" car is another matter.

My temperature gauge registers half scale when cruising around and the electronic thermostat is set to switch on the fan at three quarters scale.  The fan switches on if caught in slow moving traffic on a warm day.  The car is a Spitfire 1500 with a standard system, apart from the electric fan.

[johny]

9 hours ago, Richeee said:

First major trip out will be to the Goodwood Members breakfast meeting which will be a 100 mile round trip in 26.c temp.   

At present my temp gauge reads from half and and uo to 3/4 when pushed hard butnthen held up in traffic for 10 mins.  

I know it subjective and depends on individual guages and senders calibration, but what do others read on their temp gauges when pootling on back roads and then when pushed.   ?    

Why not wait until the hottest day, go for a high speed run and then leave idling for 20mins to see where the temperature gauge gets to and more importantly if the carburation remains happy and the rad cap doesnt lift? That would get rid of any doubts... 

[dougbgt6]

My car's a 73 and when I bought it in 78 it had black plates. The MOT man told me it should have the modern yellow plates, so I changed them. When the rules changed I didn't go back, I like the yellow and it's period as it would be for a T reg.

Doug

[Peter Truman]

Ref temp gauge the daughters Mk2 Spit sits around half on the gauge goes just above then elect fan cuts in and brings it back down to just around half.

The Mk2 Vitesse used to hold half on the gauge then sender failed and after buying several supposed correct senders finall y got one that reads around 3/8 scale and it takes an age to get there and that came in a Smiths bubble packet with Spit and Mk2 Vitesse suitable on the back

I think I now have 3 spare senders think it’s time to accept the last one as it gives a reading must try it on a hot day and see if I get above half!!!

[Colin Lindsay]

11 hours ago, GrahamB said:

I thought that only vehicle constructed prior to 1973 were permitted to display black number plates.  On checking my facts, I found that the law has changed and now vehicles constructed prior to 1980 can display black plates provided that they are also registered as Historic. Whether anyone would bother provided that the black plates are on an "old" car is another matter.

It's funny to me but retrofitting an old car with plates that weren't on it when it was current is a strange habit. By 1973 white or yellow plates were standard, so I reckon any car after that would have them, but as with all things it's down to the owner's preference. It's odd, but very common, over here to see registration numbers right up to the current day remade on black and white plates and put on an older car as the original number has been sold, but again the sale of older numbers is big business over here. I think it devalues a car, but try arguing that! 

[Josef]

On 24/06/2023 at 00:13, GrahamB said:

 

I thought that only vehicle constructed prior to 1973 were permitted to display black number plates.  On checking my facts, I found that the law has changed and now vehicles constructed prior to 1980 can display black plates provided that they are also registered as Historic.

 

I think this was due to an error in the law that made tax exemption roll on. Because tax exemption and the allowance for black plates were both tied to the car being a Historic Vehicle, the change to make tax exemption apply to anything over 40 inadvertently brought the number plate rules along with it. (Pretty sure, but not 100% certain so I’m happy to be corrected!)

[Stratton Jimmer]

On 24/06/2023 at 09:54, dougbgt6 said:

I like the yellow and it's period as it would be for a T reg.

I too like the yellow plates and have them on my Sixfire. The PO had fitted B&W which now adorn my bike garage door. The car started life as an R reg 1500 but was adapted to a six by Yorkshire Triumphs in the early 2000s.

[dannyb]

13 hours ago, Josef said:

I think this was due to an error in the law that made tax exemption roll on. Because tax exemption and the allowance for black plates were both tied to the car being a Historic Vehicle, the change to make tax exemption apply to anything over 40 inadvertently brought the number plate rules along with it. (Pretty sure, but not 100% certain so I’m happy to be corrected!)

You are correct, they made a mistake with the 40 years historic rules which they corrected so cars can use black and white plates up to registration year 1979.

Danny

[Richeee]

Hi.   Been keeping my head down for a couple of weeks. Ever sincei mentioned black and white number plates. Caused a bit of response. Did not dare mentioned that i might get ageless number plates from northern ireland.   That might have got me castrated.   Or that designs such as spitfires and mgbs were ruined by rubber bumpers and big over riders. Or the tr7 had to be a fixed head at first.   Good designs ruined by later regulations.

 

Anyway to todays topic.

Noise from front of my spit. Timing chain area.    Found that the tensioner was totally wrong position and was not tensioning at all.   Had marks both sides.

Have got new chain seal etc.   Just wondering what you guys thought of condition of teeth.?

Hoping to get away with new chain and tensioner and use the cable tie method of holding tensioner back.?

 

[johny]

Did you check chain wear as per the manual? Sprockets dont look bad but new chain will wear rapidly to suit them....

[Colin Lindsay]

1 hour ago, Richeee said:

Hi.   Been keeping my head down for a couple of weeks. Ever sincei mentioned black and white number plates. Caused a bit of response. Did not dare mentioned that i might get ageless number plates from northern ireland. 

It's a debate. We just love to discuss things. We don't cancel anyone for having different views to ourselves, we'll leave that to more enlightened types. Ageless plates from over here are one thing - millions of them about - but age-related might be different. If it's a 1500 go for *** 1500, I always wanted a ***1200 plate for a Herald but never wanted to lose the original plate.

[Richeee]

Thankyou for the timely reminder Johny.    About 10 mm on the chain.    So possibly on limit as per mr Haynes and as i had a chain and tensioner quickly changed it over.    Just using the original marks.   All seems fine.   Just wish your timely reminder included the oil thrower.

 

That should not be in the ice cream pot with half the bolts in...........

Oh well took cover off again. Quite happy with cable tie method of fitting the tensioner.  Happy its in right place now.   Just quickly double checked timing befor i packed up for the day. And fine.

Next job is to refit the water pump i fitted 2 weeks ago.   Was weeping a bit around the gasket. Although i dont like sealants it may be required.   Whilst the rad etc is off going to fit an electric fan.    Nips up to 2&3/4 when pushed and then it has to go slower or lights. Just wantbthat reassurance to cool it a bit more.

[daverclasper]

On 24/06/2023 at 07:15, johny said:

Why not wait until the hottest day, go for a high speed run and then leave idling for 20mins to see where the temperature gauge gets to and more importantly if the carburation remains happy and the rad cap doesnt lift? That would get rid of any doubts... 

Is the carburation not being happy, necessarily related to engine running too hot. My Vitesse doesn't overheat, though if idling for long periods in hot weather traffic jams, will start to run badly. I assumed it was under bonnet temp causing fuel vapouration?  

[johny]

Its difficult to know Dave whether carburation problems come from higher engine temperature or high under bonnet temperature or both as most likely theyre connected. Either way you need to do some thing about it and in my case the only measure Ive taken is to replace the mechanical fan with a decent electric fan which keeps the engine temperature down and additionally moves more air under the bonnet so whatever the cause was I now dont get carburation problems....