Outriggers & rear extensions

[Pete Lewis]

no rush it will reveal all thats needed as you progress

just  get some good tea bags and biscuits in 

Pete

[Colin]

🤣 Trouble is, Pete, it won't be me doing it!! I never learned to weld, sadly. I do all the other works. Club leccy ign went on recently, Club hazards got fitted a while ago. Havr some LED reversing lights to put in next. Holding an electric fan . . . am un two minds about this though. But don't know why. 😀

[Pete Lewis]

thats fine  you dont need an electric fan     

why do you feel you need one ???

Pete

[Colin]

Mainly due to the high Summer temps, I guess. Original 4-blade steel fan in place currently. And being in the S.E. there is always a huge chance, wherever I drive, of getting stuck in a jam for long periods. If she's running at tickover, crawling along in 40+C I feel she'd need all the help she could get - that 4-blader isn't going to cut it.🙂

[Pete Lewis]

could you fit a later 7 blade plastic (also a lot quieter)   you need to have a good air flow under the bonnet to keep fueling happy

Pete

 

[Colin]

Absolutely! To be fair, there's very little original in a car of 1970 vintage! Dashboard. Engine. That's about it!! 🤣 Yes, a 7 blader is probably the way to go. Why quieter?? 🤔

Best, C.

[Pete Lewis]

quieter is down to the blade design 

used on on my Vit6 when we had her  , far better than the metal fan  and lighter .

Pete

[Colin]

I can see that happening, then !😉

[PeteH]

Captive nut/flanges?. I just bolted through and put new stiff nuts and large washers to spread load, also make sure you have the bracing tubes between the top and bottom of the side rails or the rails will crush.

mine where tack welded into place but I was working on a bare chassis.

 Pete

[Colin]

Appreciated! One of the two, supplied by the Brimmer Brothers, did NOT have bracing pieces and I had to pester them to get those. I haven't actually checked to see if North West Kent garage welded them in, yet but will be bearing that in mind - thanks for said reminder!😉

Just for info, Chic Doig is undertaking fabrication of a repair panel for the 'B' post, sill-round-to seat-heel-kick corrosion that's currently there. Is welded to the 'B' post support underneath, apparantly.

Best C

[Colin]

Folks:- with poly-bush, body-mount kit in hand and with photos you have kindly supplied showing some of the washers and captive nuts used, can anyone kindly supply an 'exploded' diagram type drawing of which goes where, please? 

My guess is the captive nut (with steel washer?) will be inside each of the tubular mount brackets, receiving a long bolt from underneath the side rail. Question is; are there other washers deployed in between the top of the side rail and tubular mounts?? 

Sorry to be so continually ignorant about this matter. 

Best, Colin.

[Colin]

June 2024 Update & Final (Ha!) Entry, the 'Body-On' renewal and repair of Front Body Mounts and 'B' Post repairs.

As previously described, going on holiday and leaving your car with these 'specialists' and, what you think has been a comprehensive understanding of the works needed - especially when the owner is in the midst of changing premises - is NOT a good idea. And so, said 'specialist' having only welded in the prepped and supplied outrigger set was duly dropped, for not having repaired the front body mounts (agreed needed doing on free hydraulic ramp inspection me, by all and sundry of his staff and he, the owner himself). For leaving the brake and fuel pipes in a spaghetti-like format at the rear n/s. HIs pitch being he was going to make good all the other issues in 'phase two' of works (ha!). 

Spent ages seeking A.N. Other who could do the front body mounts and 'B' Post repairs - my '20/'21 renovator was not offering to undertake the work (worst luck; I liked the way he did the main renovation).

Found another not a million miles away, having ruled out the Thanet Jaguar repair specialists quoting £90 hr welding charges. Provided the Chic Doig constructed and prepped front Body mounts and another body fitting kit. A long delay saw Chic eventually supply me with 'B' post panel repair sections (see the above saga). Those I prepped and duly supplied.

On pick-up, on first appearances the work was complete, but certainly not pretty. following cutting away the recently installed front outriggers, sills, separated where they had been top welded in renovation 20/21 were re-affixed with some fixing bolt heads painted, some not; others tightened until they pulled themselves through the metal available to them. Sharp exterior base-of-bulkhead footwell-front seam just above the front outrigger, not seam welded correctly. I was then told they had been unable to use Chic Doig's 'B' post panels as having been too solid and not manipulable enough (so I now have £200's worth of Chic's panel beaters' creation sitting in the garage I can't use). Pinholes were left in their own repairing of said sections and they allowed me to drive away without the lower driver's side seat belt fixing having been made. I immediately drove back to rectify that one of course - and on discovering the above descriptive faults on close inspection at home where the light was better, listed them, returning the car toute-suite for further reparation! A fair slice of carefully prepped n/s front body mount panel had been ground to bare metal, but not re-sealed in any way at all. 

Again, from folk who do this because they love classic cars and have made a business out of it, very disappointing. They cited workers' sickness as the cause of the haphazard nature of the work!

Admittedly, all the above works had been agreed to be done by both parties involved within the parameters of my budgetary requirements and let me say, that although a good 12 months passed, researching how (with your own fine help), finding those who will, and messing about and complaining about sub-optimal results to the original company and then the further suppliers of works getting them corrected as far as I dare push them, I am still glad I did not put the car in the queue with those other 'specialists' I previously approached stating costs of £10,000 or so for doing the body-off job(s) I have had done with it on.

If, after all shenanigans you are wondering what the cost was, with parts supplied & prepped by me, I can say it was achieved at 50% of the above figure - albeit with the described hassle and attendant disappointments. 

And of course I understand that for many, that hassle and/or time to negotiate, visit & research premises etc., is worth paying a premium for.

I can't, however, imagine I would have done it any other way. I am absolutely sure that that even at the most costly of premises, asking for the body-off option, all the bagging and tagging of the elements of the car that I know so well, would have been put back together within my satisfaction tolerances. Clips & fixings here and there would have been missing, wiring butchered and reconstruction rushed with 'modern' items used as replacements.

Whilst still stripped out, I have taken the opportunity to apply bitumen tile sound-proofing in boot and cabin. from the boot forward, I used Dodo foam sound insulation on top of the Bitumen in the spare wheel-well (where the twin exhaust pipes are secured into) and under the boot rubber matting. I have constructed two sheets of ply cabin/boot separation, sandwiched with bitumen and foam insulation. 

I stuffed the rear seat squab with underfelt and laid it also over the cabin bitumen tiling. The other under-dash soundproofing I wrapped with dodo foam and re-sealed and affixed, same with the footwell verticals. The top newish (from 20/21 renovation) carpet has been laid over the top and Club mats finish the cabin off.

Lastly, thanks to All for their very helpful and informative suggestions during this grinding process which wouldn't have been necessary, had I;

a) had taught myself to weld

b) been made of money.

Best, Colin (Herne Bay).

P.S. (the doors STILL don't shut nicely!)

 

[Colin Lindsay]

1 hour ago, Colin said:

On pick-up, on first appearances the work was complete, but certainly not pretty. following cutting away the recently installed front outriggers, sills, separated where they had been top welded in renovation 20/21 were re-affixed with some fixing bolt heads painted, some not; others tightened until they pulled themselves through the metal available to them. Sharp exterior base-of-bulkhead footwell-front seam just above the front outrigger, not seam welded correctly. I was then told they had been unable to use Chic Doig's 'B' post panels as having been too solid and not manipulable enough (so I now have £200's worth of Chic's panel beaters' creation sitting in the garage I can't use). Pinholes were left in their own repairing of said sections and they allowed me to drive away without the lower driver's side seat belt fixing having been made. I immediately drove back to rectify that one of course - and on discovering the above descriptive faults on close inspection at home where the light was better, listed them, returning the car toute-suite for further reparation! A fair slice of carefully prepped n/s front body mount panel had been ground to bare metal, but not re-sealed in any way at all. 

Grim reading, excuse after excuse, but sadly sometimes you find out the hard way. I did have one local idiot quoting me 400 (four hundred!!) hours to replace a GT6 boot floor. I hope you get sorted out one way or the other!

See my latest post on the MOT-exemption thread for a similar scenario concerning cowboy welders.

(BTW the way post photos of Chic Doig's panels, I had a mate lamenting the lack of anything in that area just last week and they might be interested if you have these sections going spare now!)

[Colin]

Hi Colin,

Earlier in my post, I'm pretty sure I posted the 'B' post - and the front of the rear seat kick plate corrosion pics. I asked Chic to make these repair plates. I'm not sure they make complete sense and maybe that's why they weren't used, but if they could be useful to somebody else, that'd be great. Pics attached.

I've Hammerite red oxide primed and black smooth hammeritetop coated. About 3 coats of each.

Best, Colin

[Colin]

Hi Colin, Just realised those pics were not terribly helpful:- here with measurements . . . Best, C