Outriggers & rear extensions

[Colin]

John J 1250 - Thank you so much!

Those pics are supremely helpful (as with Josef's!). They are especially interesting to me, because as with the specialist I took it to, my very early conversation revolved around one of the mechanics saying he'd need to take the side valances off  - and your pictures really show why.

So thank you for your informative visual illustration. I understand that most of this work would be so much easier with the tub off, but still looks to me (and I know I don't weld) that it is do-able with the tub on.

I'm grateful.

Best,

C.

[Jon J 1250]

14 minutes ago, Colin said:

John J 1250 - Thank you so much!

Those pics are supremely helpful (as with Josef's!). They are especially interesting to me, because as with the specialist I took it to, my very early conversation revolved around one of the mechanics saying he'd need to take the side valances off  - and your pictures really show why.

So thank you for your informative visual illustration. I understand that most of this work would be so much easier with the tub off, but still looks to me (and I know I don't weld) that it is do-able with the tub on.

I'm grateful.

Best,

C.

No Problem Colin.

It is definitely do-able, I did it as a novice welder on my old Herald Estate about 25 years ago. Its only worth it if the footwells themselves are in good condition, which yours appear to be
I used repair panels that were available from a now defunct company called SW Classics, but they were the same as the Chic Doig panels.

The way I tackled it was to unpick/chop off the bottom inch or so of the inner A post. This gave me space to chop out the whole section that would be replaced by the repair panel, and wriggle the repair panel into place and weld it in.
Also note the horizontal edge of the floor that the backets are welded to is at a different height than the same surface further back along the edge towards the joint between the two body sections, and you have to build in an interface between the two, which is time consuming if you want it to look original. I wasn't too bothered and just put a flange and 90 degree step in it, which was fine.

Once all that was done I replaced the bottom inch of the inner A post and inner face where it overlaps the floor pan, and finally filled it with cavity wax.

I don't own the car any more, but the repairs are still holding so I hear.

Regards

Jon

[Colin]

Brilliant explanation, John! Thank you so much! This will help me talk to those I approach to put this situation right!

Best, C.

[Colin]

Hi Gents,

Not sure if I am permitted to inform in this manner. But I hope it helps. I rang a well known Scottish bracket/panel & mount manufacturing supplier, following on from your previous advices. He has sent me the following photos of his front body mount replacement solutions.

I think I'm looking at mounts on their own and alternatively, mounts attached to a complete panel for replacement.

He states he also has 'A' post replacement panels, too. Currently trying to get pics of this/these. Best, C.

[Colin]

And . . . my afterthought question is:- would repairers prefer the mounts affixed to the panel? I'm thinking if when sills are off, there's any significant corrosion, the surrounding mount panel would be a better bet to cut-in rather than trying to fiddle the mounts only onto a possibly duff surrounding?? Cheers, C.

[Josef]

I’d want to see the panel in the flesh next to the (remains of) an original bit before making any judgement. Probably as would anyone else who’d do the job. That whole area was a big job to repair and the shapes are not as simple as in that panel in the photo.

The one in-house made panel from said supplier I bought I never used as it really wasn’t a good shape, I preferred to make my own. 

[Colin]

Thanks, Josef. Will bear that in mind! Best, C.

[Colin]

Hi Josef, Jon J1250 et Al;

I have purchased and am paint prepping Chic Doig's Front Body Mounting panels (pic of naked panel).

Now knowing from your pics of the positioning context, and looking at the holes in the mounts, will I need rubber mounting pads where it sits on the outrigger (?!?), Nuts/Bolts/Large Washers?? In other words, once this panel is in poisition, what are the fixings - from where and to what?

I let the North West Kent garage have £100's worth of Rimmer fitting kit and did not secure its rescue when I came away from them. I'm not keen to have to shell out another £100 for the same kit, with half of it already having been used to fix what has been fixed with the outriggers & side rail replacements!

All information gratefully received. Thanks again in advance. Kind regards,

Colin (Herne Bay). P.S. Club Electronic ignition now fitted. She still runs!! 😁 Am about to fit LED reverse lights at some point in the near future - but have 'B' post internal sill-rear seat heel kick plate corrosion problems to sort (Chic Doig looking into fabricating a panel - here's hoping!)

[Pete Lewis]

james paddock  James Paddock Limited - Triumph Stag, Spitfire, TR6, TR7, GT6, Vitesse, Herald Parts and Spares Specialists. BODY MOUNTING KIT(JPR712)

[Josef]

For each mount point for the bulkhead you’ll need what’s shown in the attached photos. The thin and thick shims are fitted as required. Mine had a thin one on each rear mount and none on the front. After my manipulations this has changed to thin at the front and thick at the rear on one side… Depending on the condition of your car you may be able to rescue some or all of these bits (the thin shims I’ve not seen for sale, but they’d be easily made from a suitable washer, and the slot is just for easy fitment). 

[Colin]

Thanks Pete, Josef. 

Very enlightening and helpful indeed.

Kindest regards,

C.

[Pete Lewis]

finding out what goes where is a minefield of mixed ideas

to an engineering point of view you need a solid alloy mount for the two front baulkhead brackets and two for the diff  x member   all others are one rubber and as many shims as you need to get a old wonky body to line up on an old wonky chassis   anything goes .

the idea of solid mounts on baulkhead and rear tub to diff x member is you need the two parts to not shift about

if on all  rubbers they wont hold their position for long and door gaps will de adjust ............  makes sense ????

[Colin]

Yes, Pete - thanks! Not sure I'm approaching the diff X member? 

But thanks for the advice and pointing me to J Paddock's kit - God, I made a mistake with the £100 Rimmer jobbie . . . 🥴

Best, C. 

[Pete Lewis]

it always pays to surf around  there are so many suppliers and often wild price variations 

never jump in at the big boys as a first one stop shop 

Pete

[Colin]

😉

[Josef]

The Rimmers body mounts are milled from 99.9% pure platinum though…

[Colin]

🤣🤣🤣🤣

[Colin]

Chaps:- Just as an update . . . James Paddock have two body mounting kits available (for the Herald), one using Poly material. Please see picture. The one Pete alluded to is for Spits apparantly. You'll now tell me that they're both the same . . . LOL?!! 😁 Best, Herne Bay Col

[Pete Lewis]

i used cheap thick truck mud flaps and a hole saw to make rubber pads 

Pete

[PeteH]

48 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

i used cheap thick truck mud flaps and a hole saw to make rubber pads 

Pete

I cut some square ones from a short section of redundant conveyor belting, Slightly thicker than "normal" but tough as old boots, using a jig saw.👍

Pete

[Colin]

I'm a big fan of using items that have dual purpose, too!! I certainly don't always pay through the nose for stuff (except lately!!) 😄

[daverclasper]

5 hours ago, PeteH said:

I cut some square ones from a short section of redundant conveyor belting, Slightly thicker than "normal" but tough as old boots,

Yes, great if you can find some?

[Josef]

Given the err, questionable, quality of some more modern rubber parts for our cars, I’d expect polyurethane mounts might last a bit better. Though I have rubber ones from Canley’s to go on my Herald, and I’m not buying anything extra now!

[PeteH]

15 hours ago, daverclasper said:

Yes, great if you can find some?

Dave, yes not easy to come by now, mine came curtesy of my self build house! Strangely. I had reason to go for sand gravel at a quarry locally and this section was lying around. Guy on the pay office said I could take it got used as a mat in front on the bench for some years. I just stripped a section to make the pads. It now forms part of the path in front of my firewood store 

Pete

[Colin]

Chaps, have ordered the fitting kit as you know - just realised that (I think) there aren't any of those captive nut on flange pieces as shown in previous photos. I wonder what else I'll be short of . . . ? As you can see, I've not had thisjob undertaken before and the outside of the car is intact, so without removing the sills, I can't really see what fittings are involved.😀