Kevinrpayne Posted June 25, 2023 Report Share Posted June 25, 2023 Hi all. I’m back on the gt6 front suspension rebuild and up against time as usual. I thought whilst at it I would replace bearings as I haven’t a clue how old they are but I’ve looked in my Haynes and can’t find much on how to remove the bearings. It just says remove and replace I found a web site that suggest I need to drift them out - is this correct? Usually it’s a press with an appropriate socket set if you can point me in the directions of a step by step guide would be appreciated thanks kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 25, 2023 Report Share Posted June 25, 2023 Hi, I think you need the free to download Triumph workshop manual kindly on offer at vitessesteve.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinrpayne Posted June 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 Thanks. Yes tried that as well - this is as much as it says the oil seal fell out so that’s ok but as for removal of the bearings? kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 26, 2023 Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 yes the description is a bit limited but then it really is a simple process where you get a bar preferably of brass to drift out the outer races from the opposite ends of the hub. Just tap round progressively and they will slide out but beforehand I would have a good look at their condition (pitting or discolouring) because they normally last very well and the replacements may well be of worse quality. Remember even new ones must have play if they are correctly adjusted... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 26, 2023 Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 there is normally 2 reliefs it the bearing location flange casting to enable a drift to sit on the outer ring and knock it out you dont need a press Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted June 26, 2023 Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 (edited) The issue I had just recently when fitting new calipers to a Mk2 Spitfire which required the hubs and bearings to be serviced, the issue was the new inner felt seals I fitted the felt was too thick and had to be cut down, the inner dia of the felt was very tight on the vertical link stub shaft raised annulus, and the steel backing for the felt seal was too small on its inner dia so that it fouled the same stub axle annulus hence distorting and pushing onto the inner bearing causing it to stop it rotating on the balls. I had to trim the felt down , then enlarge the inner dia of the seal steel backing so it cleared the stub axle raised annulus, and didn't interfere with the inner bearing. Blo**y poor quality aftermarket supply!!! Remember only the bearings need packing with grease not the hub area between the bearings this is unnecessary as it holds heat into the hub! Edited June 26, 2023 by Peter Truman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 26, 2023 Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 yes everybody seems to be worrying about these seals and then replacing them with the usual pattern part problems but is it really necessary? Do they do very much as mine are still originals (as are the bearings) and I just get on and drive.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 26, 2023 Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 3 hours ago, johny said: I would have a good look at their condition (pitting or discolouring) because they normally last very well and the replacements may well be of worse quality. It used to be that bearings were matched to their races so had to be replaced together, but these days... who knows if that's still the case? For race removal, look inside the hub, you'll see the two notches one opposite the other for each race; a good drift or even a heavy screwdriver will press those out from behind. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 26, 2023 Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 (edited) 8 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: It used to be that bearings were matched to their races so had to be replaced together, but these days... who knows if that's still the case? They definitely come as a set: inner and outer races and bearing, so crazy not to use all but I wouldnt replace them without finding a good reason... Edited June 26, 2023 by johny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinrpayne Posted June 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 Thanks, I bought replacements simply because I’ve replaced everything else in sorting out the vertical supports - it seamed sensible to do everything but am feeling like I neednt have bothered if the advice is to don’t meddle unless it’s a problem. I’ll give a light tap and if they move then I’ll continue else I’ll just re assemble and put he bits back in the spares box the replacements are Timkin so should be ok quality I hope but agree only replace as pairs thanks Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 26, 2023 Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 and with the seal the tin cup fits against the bearing then the felt ring which runs direct onto the stub axle face nip the castle nut to a finger nip then back it of at least one flat you must have some end float or you will quickly seize the outer bearing to the stub axle so around 3mm of rock at the rim /tyre is about correct there are 2 holes for the split pin to aid fine adjustment the spec is 0.002" to 0.008" and at so aim ant a tad more than 0.002 but with 0.008" you will think the wheels falling off makes the bearing last but will push back brake pads and affect the steering feed back 0.002 to 0.004 is best just enough for you to detect some rock at the rim /wheel you cant measure this effectively so rely on the feel , try 1 flat maybe 2 select the hole in the stub that gives the best result so many get this all messed up so have fun Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 26, 2023 Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 57 minutes ago, Kevinrpayne said: Thanks, I bought replacements simply because I’ve replaced everything else in sorting out the vertical supports - it seamed sensible to do everything but am feeling like I neednt have bothered if the advice is to don’t meddle unless it’s a problem. Well its just that having the front wheel bearing with play is one of our cars better points because the inner races can rotate so the impacts during use are spread evenly unlike a modern design where its always in the same place which facilitates an earlier failure... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 26, 2023 Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 3 hours ago, johny said: because the inner races can rotate so the impacts during use are spread not many want to accept that but a def +1 for that rears rotate in the trunion hsg to do the same its a pet hate of mine as a good basic design concept Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinrpayne Posted June 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 All done. They tap out easy when you can see the recesses if you remove the grease as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinrpayne Posted June 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 But I see what you mean by the seal being oversize ! Only out by about 4 mm so close ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted June 26, 2023 Report Share Posted June 26, 2023 even after soaking the seal in oil then compressing it overnight to remove the surplus oil the felt is still very thick with the side effect of pushing the hub outwards causing the brake rotor to be off-center in the caliper gap ie pistons with possible rubbing on the caliper body or inability to fit the brake pads, all very disheartening! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted June 27, 2023 Report Share Posted June 27, 2023 The only replacement felt seals I've found to be correct are in the bearing packs the Club Shop supplies. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DVD3500 Posted June 27, 2023 Report Share Posted June 27, 2023 There is a guy in the US who was a metallurgy engineer and he made a set of the best bolts, nuts, washers and felt he could find. The sets are expensive but I lucked out on the shipping having a US address in addition to my German one. I can link/ post about it when I get some free time (covid has hit us again...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 27, 2023 Report Share Posted June 27, 2023 its best to reuse the originals far too many aftermarket are just very wrong "look a likes " + 1 for club shop having the correct ones anyone tried to trim the thick uns with a razor blade ????? in reality the orig felts last for ever unless its had some catastrophic failure Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 27, 2023 Report Share Posted June 27, 2023 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: anyone tried to trim the thick uns with a razor blade ????? in reality the orig felts last for ever unless its had some catastrophic failure No but I've swapped the felt over ie used the better fitting original tincup with the felt out of a new ill-fitting one. Well greased, it should compress down. I know I posted this recently somewhere else but you fit the hub without the felt seal and torque it up, then mark where the nut sits, then remove, fit the felt seal, and refit to the original marks. That way the felt doesn't affect the endfloat. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinrpayne Posted June 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2023 I’ve trimmed to +2 mm and plan to try and compress the rest. Reading the above then I guess I need to also grease the felt before re assembly - doesn’t say that in the book either! thanks Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jbc562l Posted June 27, 2023 Report Share Posted June 27, 2023 Just to say I’m so happy to have found this post ! I’ve been having exactly this problem when replacing the bearing after a mot remark .. I’m going to try fitting the old seal at the weekend and report back . Thank you .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted June 27, 2023 Report Share Posted June 27, 2023 1 minute ago, Jbc562l said: Just to say I’m so happy to have found this post ! I’ve been having exactly this problem when replacing the bearing after a mot remark .. I’m going to try fitting the old seal at the weekend and report back . Thank you .. Many MoT places are not aware that the bearings on the small chassis cars are supposed to have play! I have had advisories on and off for years, but the bearings are totally fine and correctly adjusted… 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinrpayne Posted June 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2023 This is now turning into a nightmare project that was only going to take a few hrs. I’ve tried to re assemble the bearing and it won’t move. I’ve measured the new stub axle that I’m yet to fit on the other side and it’s 2 thou over the diameter of the old one and also feels like it was turned rather than ground. Can’t get the bearing off now. Just love it. great. kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinrpayne Posted June 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2023 Managed to extract by removing the whole axle and both the inner and outer stub axles are 2 thou oversize to the old shaft and the new bearings go on the old shaft. Both shafts are the same size Unfortunately I’ve allowed the Myford to go to the sons house and have spent a very happy 30 mins spinning it in a drill with fine wet and dry and have achieved precisely almost nothing. other than fitting the old ones, any suggestions? kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now