Pete Lewis Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 The 2000 Mk2 had bulbed 55/65 halogen outers and sealed 75w inners , alls fine on main but the dip was a dreary 30 mph max even with the aim raised to optimum so have fitted a set of crystal lense units from ebay for £53 , not a utopia make but sound enough for a trial, which was tested going to our busy club night on monday the result is astonishing, not fitted relays yet thats for a sunny day, but with no light loss from the old prism lenses makes a world of illumination Thats using the same bulbs They need one location notch opening up as the pitch of the three lugs is slightly different, 2 align the 3rd needs a simple extention to the location slot relays will be fitted to extend the switch life but on main its actually 2 x10w less than the sealed units Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mishmosh Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Often considered this on the Bond ( same as 2000 set up ) as theres a significant dimness . I will first sort out the lack of power. Did your sum include all 4 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Hi Pete. Are you using the same bulbs? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 yes £57 was for all four and bulbs units are made by autopal bulbs are std halogen H4, many on ebay are as a set with side pilot, (bit cheaper) which i didnt want so got two sets of 261909261450 from vintage warehouse bromsgrove as crystal headlamp kit caterham7 5 3/4" pair >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Aidan, you need 7" lamps for your GT6 or it will need glasses ?!!!!!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 I too like the crystal lights. On my last spit, I changed from std sealed beams to the crystals with the cheapo supplied H4 bulbs. The difference was astounding, far more than the previous halogen conversions I had done. In current car they are also relayed and Philips extreme bulbs. I don't need the spotlights I fitted during the build...... (first car did LOTS of night rallies, which prompted the chage. Current thoroughly tested over 2500 miles on the 10CR on top of "normal" use) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 I fitted these a couple of years ago and as mentioned by Clive & Pete the difference was noticeable. When I went from sealed beam to halogen it was a bit of a difference, then added relays which was big difference, then changed to these and they improved the same again. Cheap too, but some people may not like the look of them, but I'd rather see where I was going. My old pair of halogens had rusted quite a bit, these are plastic so won't. My only complaint about them is that the chrome ring doesn't clamp them in so they are slightly loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Darren youve just drawn something from the back of the memory , the ones ive bought dont have any E markings, on the lense dont know if thats a MOT problem , back in my days of manufacturing this was a homolgated requirement and had to be visible pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Should be ok if this is correct: http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/Why-is-e-mark-approval-important-/10000000010395974/g.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Pete Will you be adding an in-line fuse on the circuit? I have been looking at this but was wondering if a 10A or 15A fuse would be better Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Aidan, An easy way of deciding what fuse to use on any application is to divide watts by voltage. So if you have 2 x 60w headlights, that's a total of 120w, so divide 120(watts) by 12(volts) gives you 10(amp). However I'd use a 15amp fuse as there may be a bit of a surge when turning on. The cable in the headlight circuit is rated to 17 amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I will be adding relays and fuse box when the suns on the back of me head rather than in the workshop with a heater blasting away so some time sooooon pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Love clear headlamps on the GT6 although for shows I might retain the original units on my Herald - just to please the anoraks! I also recently used a Meguiars headlamp cleaning kit on headlamps on a Renault clio and a Hyundai where the plastic had become opaque and the transformation was amazing - you don't realise how much cloudy plastic dims the beam until you clean it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 most paint cleaners will clear the polycarbonate lenses including read some used toothpaste smile Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Pete, or anyone who knows I have opened up the loom at the front of the bonnet and have found the point at which the cabling splits for each headlamp there are bullet connectors here which I guess is a good place to splice the new wiring in. The question is what is the standard size of bullet connectors used? - If I can get the right sized female ones I can make a clean and easy splice Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 The female bullet connectors/sleeves are all the same size, it's whether you want single, double etc. Male have different inner sizes to accommodate the different wire sizes, but externally they're the same. http://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/bullets-connector-sleeves.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Hi Well All done thanks and all working through the relays YAY! One point to raise though, and this might be because I have been using the column switch regularly to test the lights but I seem to remember there is a "Flash facility on the column switch when you pull it towards you This is not working . Looking again at the wiring diagram there is definatelky another circuit to power the main beam Does the switch need replacing? I cant think that what I have done would have impacted on it other than using the switch Any thoughts welcome Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 How does the flash switch have a output you can just bridge to the main beam trigger line ( the orig blue white) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Hi Pete Checked the wiring on this. The switch is a really simple design. Effectively the switch swivels when you pull it toward you and makes a contact to a separate supply Checked the supply and its fine at the fuse box ( permanent live), but no power at the switch I guess it must be where the switch cable joins in to the the harness Horn and interior light are working so the fuse box is not at fault Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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