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What thickness metal for Vitesse bodywork repairs


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Personally it is whatever metal I have lying around but around  1mm -1.2mm will give you a good working base with enough thickness to weld and then grind down  and reasonably easy to shape. Most of the diy type body tools like benders, shrinkers. hole makers seem to be rated at max 1.2mm.

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I put acre`s of 1.2mm Steel into the main chasis and outriggers etc: as well as some of the Floor. More complex shapes where easier to form in 1mm. All supplied by a local Steel suppliers. Still have a Half sheet of 1.2, now earmarked for a Drip/catch tray for the lathe.


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7 hours ago, attwood65 said:

guidance on what thickness metal to make the repair panels

As a generality for cars of this era the panels (wings, door skins, bonnet etc) will have been 20swg steel which is approx 0.9mm. 18swg (1.2mm) is a bit more 'structural' (e.g. sill ends, bracing) and 16swg and above (≥1.6mm) for heavy structures e.g. chassis, jacking points.

Reproduction repair panels are commonly pressed in 0.8mm and that's the realistic minimum - need to be a bit deft when welding but 0.8mm is easy to work and shape. 1.0mm is a bit harder to work but provides more lattitude for the welder.

The type of steel is important. 'Scaveneged' steel from filing cabinets, washings machines etc etc often turns out to be difficult to work and weld. The alloy will be unknown and coatings (e.g. zinc) can seriously interfere with welding. After much penny pinching I've found that buying fresh steel gives the happiest results: CR4 is fab if one has a handy supplier but not that there's anything wrong about ordinary low carbon 'construction' steel - but not galvanised.


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