attwood65 Posted November 2, 2023 Report Share Posted November 2, 2023 I am repairing some rusted patches on a Vitesse rear body tub. Any guidance on what thickness metal to make the repair panels from. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted November 2, 2023 Report Share Posted November 2, 2023 Personally it is whatever metal I have lying around but around 1mm -1.2mm will give you a good working base with enough thickness to weld and then grind down and reasonably easy to shape. Most of the diy type body tools like benders, shrinkers. hole makers seem to be rated at max 1.2mm. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted November 3, 2023 Report Share Posted November 3, 2023 Have used both 20 and 18 guage with 20 guage being a lot easier to shape for body repairs. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted November 3, 2023 Report Share Posted November 3, 2023 I put acre`s of 1.2mm Steel into the main chasis and outriggers etc: as well as some of the Floor. More complex shapes where easier to form in 1mm. All supplied by a local Steel suppliers. Still have a Half sheet of 1.2, now earmarked for a Drip/catch tray for the lathe. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted November 3, 2023 Report Share Posted November 3, 2023 7 hours ago, attwood65 said: guidance on what thickness metal to make the repair panels As a generality for cars of this era the panels (wings, door skins, bonnet etc) will have been 20swg steel which is approx 0.9mm. 18swg (1.2mm) is a bit more 'structural' (e.g. sill ends, bracing) and 16swg and above (≥1.6mm) for heavy structures e.g. chassis, jacking points. Reproduction repair panels are commonly pressed in 0.8mm and that's the realistic minimum - need to be a bit deft when welding but 0.8mm is easy to work and shape. 1.0mm is a bit harder to work but provides more lattitude for the welder. The type of steel is important. 'Scaveneged' steel from filing cabinets, washings machines etc etc often turns out to be difficult to work and weld. The alloy will be unknown and coatings (e.g. zinc) can seriously interfere with welding. After much penny pinching I've found that buying fresh steel gives the happiest results: CR4 is fab if one has a handy supplier but not that there's anything wrong about ordinary low carbon 'construction' steel - but not galvanised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attwood65 Posted November 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2023 Thanks everyone for your help. Very useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark B Posted November 3, 2023 Report Share Posted November 3, 2023 If you end up replacing panels, hang onto them, reuse the good sections of metal for patches etc. Paint stripping poly type discs will reveal good quality steal underneath the paint. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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