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GT6 Engine Return Basics


AidanT

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Hi

Another question 

I have a high torque starter from thd club, had no problem with it on the last engine,  it worked perfectly. On the new its just spinning.

Q1 Do, they / should I have done some maintenance on it prior to the refit as it's not been run for s few years?

Q2 I fitted it with the spacer I had with the old engine, could this be the issue?

TIA 

Aidan 

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most need the spacer and shims but is it actually firing the pinion out into mesh or spinning without any attempt to mesh

as you say it spins , can you do a bench test to see if the solenoid is moving the pinion  out to make mesh or not 

Pete

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How is it wired?

Original was permanent live cable to starter motor.     Feed from starter switch to the starter pinion solenoid.   Once the piniknis trown into mesh, the solenoid completes the high current circuit internally to turn the motor.

On a Triumph you can keep the feed from the external starter solenoid switch to the starter, the one on the bulkhead, and add a jumper from that to the solenoid.  Then the starter button/ignition switch activates the bulkhead solenoid switch, makes the cable live to the motor AND the solenoid.   When in mesh,  the motor is connected.

Do you have the jumper?

John

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Posted (edited)

Pete

Bench test just run and it's throwing out perfectly 

Measured the distance to the fly wheel, 12mm, measured the drive position at rest 10mm. So as far as I can see it should work.

JonD, I've not changed the wiring from the previous set up, positive though the solenoid and engine earth. It is working, just from the sound not engaging. I have fully charged the battery.

I'm a little bemused!!!

Aidan

Just thought, the solenoid is on a wire from where the main power connects to the starter- that nut wasn't very tight.... maybe the solenoid wasn't being engaged...??

Edited by AidanT
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In my experience you can although it might depend on the type of electronic ignition. Its not so easy because it seems to 'fire' so the multimeter or bulb just flickers rather than staying energised/denergised like it would with points. This makes it more difficult to get it exact but is good enough to get to run and then use a strobe👍 

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I have static timed my GT6 which has electronic, contactless ignition but the magnetic trigger has six points on it which are clearly visible and can be aligned to the sensor. The Sixfire's magnetic trigger (which replaces the points) is completely spherical and so I need to use the old bulb on a wire technique. This is only for guidance as I then use my Gunson and dynamically time the ignition.

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So

Just a quick update and a thank you to all that have helped so far.

Starter now turning the engine over nicely. 

Oil pump working well.

Dizzy installed correctly with the correct depth set.

Just requires static timing, installing the plugs and see what occurs!!

Just to say this has been an excellent experience,  my first engine nut and bolt rebuild over nearly six months doing two three hours each weekend

 

 

 

 

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Hi again,

Advice on Engine oil please? I know I will need to change after "Running in" but do I still need to use 20W50 with a rebuilt engine?

 

TIA

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Of course!   Cars that are used for only a few thousand miles a year may need annual changes, even with the best oils.

You might like to read "Which Oil?", by Richard  Michel:  https://ergodebooks.com/?route=product/product&product_id=5535648&currency=GBP&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyo60BhBiEiwAHmVLJUbMOfeDQLYwSdrNmNl_U4UfzTdkDnzavWi9hJ1Arv-XZic0AFIFuBoCl6wQAvD_BwE

(Other booksellers are available)

John

 

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On 29/06/2024 at 17:03, AidanT said:

Another thought for tomorrow,  can you static time with electronic ignition as touch would with points??

 

Tia

Hi all

Not able to set the static using thd std method, light doesn't even flicker!

Any other methods please?

I could set it by eye I guess  but how accurate does it need to be??

TIA

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Ok how about removing all plugs and then connect number one lead to a plug touching earth. With ignition on turn engine over by hand watching timing mark and the plug. Adjust to produce spark at right position...

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every simple electronic points ive come across will flash the small test bulb as it triggers if you have no flash you could have 

wiring logic incorrect

but if it fires and runs adjust the dizzy to give best running and 

retard it a good bit from best ,  test drive  & check for pinking 

Pete

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Very Heath Robinson, bit I think the static timing is now set thanks 

Will just about start, but no banana

Looking at fuel, the plugs look dryish and there is fuel dripping from the air intakes. Have I got the dreaded rubber shavings?I replaced all the intake gaskets, could I have an air leak maybe?

I can't see an easy way to tell if I have tightened up the carbs to the inlet manifold Any suggestions on that front??

TIA

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fuel dripping from the intake throat has to be fuel levels playing up, cant see thats anything connected to manifold or carb gaskets

can be upset by ragged idle lumpiness 

the shake upsets the float needles 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Pete Lewis
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22 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

fuel dripping from the intake throat has to be fuel levels playing up, cant see thats anything connected to manifold or carb gaskets

can be upset by ragged idle lumpiness 

the shake upsets the float needles 

Pete

 

OK thanks Pete.

Ordered some easy start, I can hear it wanting to start, but it just can't make it. Think I'll use some brand new plugs to. I cleaned up the old ones but spanking new will give it no excuse!!

Any other yhoughts most welcome 🙏 

Aidan 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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19 hours ago, AidanT said:

I can't see an easy way to tell if I have tightened up the carbs to the inlet manifold Any suggestions on that front??

Providing the engine will start, upward pressure with the hand under the carb will often cause or stop manifold air leaks. You will know by the change in sound. I had a recent induction roar on the sixfire and just a wee bit of upward pressure on the front carb showed the air leak to be there. The gasket had tiny tear in it.

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Hi all

How do you test a coil? Checked it has a good supply but I think its not creating any output- I have a strobe but its cheap snd may not be working but no flash even on the coil ht lead

Could possibly be related to my static timing issue above??

I can't see a spark on the plugs either!!

 

Aidan 

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Posted (edited)
35 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

does rather sound like the coil is dead

remember the coil only discharges HT when you dump the earth/dizzy line 

just powering the 12v  wont do much 

Pete

So I put the coil lead to earth and turned over (electronic ignition) and got sparks.

Still nothing at the plug..

Swap back to points??

 

 

Edited by AidanT
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I think I'm defeated!

Anyone in the Grantham area that could come and help me please?

It's firing on occasions but not enough to catch, getting a spark at the plugs, and I think the timing is OK, but not sure on that

Complete novice on the carb front, although I have sprayed quick start down the intakes, but it didn't make s blind bit of difference.

Spark at no1 plug but needs the light off in the garage to see it.

Don't know if I'm flooding it.

Beer tea coffee chocolate or whatever I can buy at the local coop as a bribe 😊

Aidan 

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