Mack Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 Happy Sunday to all, I guess this is an electrial systems question, although it is more a question about the switch. When I bought my gt6 the PO told me a new hazard switch needed fitting, which he supplied. In the photo below is the one he supplied on the left, with the metal section of the mounting and the plastic housed switch on the right which was fitted but not connected. I have found most of the wires for it, which all have spade connectors to fit the metal housed switch. ( and not the one that was in the car which has round connectors) I cant however see how it would be mounted. Does the metal section, which the switch can be removed from, mount behind the dash? I have not see any mounting screw holes in the dash itself so before I go and pull all the intruments out, could someone explain how I fit the blighter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 (edited) I don't think either of those are GT6 hazard switches for your model. This is the standard switch It, simply clicks into the hole as does the round connector one. But I think the round connector may be off a Stag? Doug Edited February 18 by dougbgt6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted February 18 Author Report Share Posted February 18 Ah that might explain it! Thanks Doug, I will find one of those and get it ordered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 Rimmers supplies them as Doug shows but says in some uses it needs to be taken out of the bezel and presumably fitted using the backing plate that Mack has.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 Please ignore colours of wires in photo as these are wrong, but note fitting. The metal bracket is held to the reverse of the dash by two tiny (No.2 or No.4) woodscrews. The switch, once wired, is pushed in from the front and sits, rather than clicks, into the bracket. It always looks a bit wrong because the switch has no escutcheon - but that's how is was! So it could well be that the 'LEFT' switch is in fact correct. Also attached are a couple of photos nicked from ebay (but that listing will disappear in a few minutes). Wiring up can be tricky because incorrect connections lead to all kinds of strangeness: But with a loupe it should be possible to see the terminal numbers moulded into the plastic by each terminal and, if the switch is correct, these will correspond with those on the wiring diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 Is it model or age dependant which fixing method is used Chris? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted February 18 Author Report Share Posted February 18 Ok great thanks Chris. It looks like I do have the correct switch then as the terminals seem to tally with the diagram. Looks like the dash will have to come out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 37 minutes ago, Mack said: Looks like the dash will have to come out! Or you could buy a new switch and pop it in the hole, go on! You know you want to! A shiny new switch or a dull manky old one? Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 Yes looks like the PO didnt realise he had to screw the backing plate to the dash before putting it back. Easily done because all the other switches have the outer case with escutcheon which just pushes in from the front but there doesnt seem to be room for the same between speedo and tacho... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 Sorry too tight Doug☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 All the instruments are out now so will try and use this one. I have realised things are going to be complicated as the PO also fitted a late spitfire steering column so the indicator wiring is different. Should be interesting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted February 20 Report Share Posted February 20 On 18/02/2024 at 16:57, johny said: Sorry too tight Doug Hm, mine doesn’t have a back plate, it just clips in the hole and the sticky out plastic bendy bits hold it in place. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 20 Report Share Posted February 20 Must be a different arrangement Doug as I think since according to Rimmers its the same switch used with and without the bezel, the hole in the photo above must be too small to fit the bezel as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted February 20 Report Share Posted February 20 I found this difference when I fitted a new headlamp switch to my Mk 3. The original depended on the metal plate fixed to the reverse of the dashboard, whereas the new switch pushed straight into the hole in the dash. Both had the same escutcheon appearance from the front, which is obviously different to the hazard switch. My hazard switch is without escutcheon. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted February 20 Report Share Posted February 20 (edited) Original GT6 switches were made by Clear Hooters and the headlamp switch in particular has a reputation for being of a fragile nature. The original UKC8647 Clear Hooters switch was subject to a dealer recall in 1978, which involved replacing it with a Lucas item. Some mods are required to fit the Lucas switch and having seen one, I was very disappointed by its look and feel. I have managed to procure an original switch which I will carry as a spare and continue to treat my current switch with great care. I would assume that the original hazard switch is also made by Clear Hooters and any currently available items would be Lucas and therefore potentially have a different fitment. Ian Edited February 20 by Ian Foster spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted February 20 Report Share Posted February 20 Dunno, but the head light switch is put in peril with ALL the current for the head lights running through it. The contacts tarnish, it becomes resistive and turns into an electric heater, drops the voltage and dims the lights Best to instal a relay carrying the headlight current and have the switch work the relay. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted February 21 Report Share Posted February 21 (edited) Definitely agree with regard to relaying headlights. Something I have done on my GT6 to great effect. I have had one switch failure at about 80k miles which was down to the plastic parts breaking, but the replacement has got me to 210k miles. I think they can be 'mended' and recall seeing an item (perhaps in the Courier) fairly recently. My advice is to add relays and treat with care! By contrast with the headlight switch, the hazard switch only gets used occasionally or even just once a year at the MOT test. Mine sometimes needs to be operated a couple of times to work, so is probably a bit dirty inside. Edited February 23 by Ian Foster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 23 Report Share Posted February 23 clear hooters ............takes me back to testing truck horns was probably Clear hooter , Lucas , one other on the basis we coudnt hear any of them we bought the clear hooter as being cheapest happy days Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted February 24 Report Share Posted February 24 Ah, Hooters! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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