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Steering column flexible joint


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I used the solid joint once and went straight back to the original. Sometimes I find that retailers extol the virtues of replacement parts over the originals simply because it's what they sell. Too much road noise and vibration transferred up the column. Keep your eye on eBay or specialist suppliers like Mick Dolphin for an original replacement. 

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You might need to tweak the seating of the steering rack when you fit the UJ - that's the issue/solution I had.

 

You often find that the rack mounts hold the rack slightly (or if using solid mounts quite a bit) above the chassis cross-member, so there's a bit of front/back roll before one end or the other of the locating 'blade' on the rack touches the chassis.  It's only a little but of course a 1mm there is more like 1cm at the steering column shaft where it passes through the suspenssion turret.

 

Loose the rack mounts and rotate so you can fit the UJ with everything clearing, then tighten up the rack before re-checking clearance.

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I used the solid joint once and went straight back to the original. Sometimes I find that retailers extol the virtues of replacement parts over the originals simply because it's what they sell. Too much road noise and vibration transferred up the column. Keep your eye on eBay or specialist suppliers like Mick Dolphin for an original replacement. 

 Did have a polybush one for ages on my old vitesse, but not easy to find the rebuildable joints (most are not suitable without serious effort, you really want he ones with wired bolts) on my spitfire I tried to get an original and failed. I had one replacement modern version, VERY short lifespan.

Fitted a UJ style and all good, but I did need to tweek the rack position a little IIRC. Not sure why you suffered with noise/vibration, mine hasn't. Same with my Toledo...

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 Not sure why you suffered with noise/vibration, mine hasn't. Same with my Toledo...

 

Wooden steering wheel! It had always transmitted road noise straight through my fingers, however, the difference was amazing when the solid joint was fitted and became really uncomfortable, so even with a replacement padded wheel I still went back to the old joint. I have one or two NOS ones bought from Stoneleigh over the years to fit when the current ones fail.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've tried the UJ on my Herald and it fouls on the suspension upright.

 

What's general experience?

 

Throughout production, there were two interchangeable designs of pinion gear for the steering rack. One of these is approximately 1" taller than the other and makes clearance between the joint and the suspension tower rather close. When it does foul, it's most often the upper nyloc nut which makes contact rather than the coupling itself, the problem can usually (but not always) be overcome by fitting a low profile nut in place of the standard full height nut.

 

The taller steering pinion became more popular in the 1970s, it's very rare to find one on an original Herald or Vitesse, even though both part numbers are listed in the respective parts catalogues. With so many reconditioned exchange steering racks being in circulation, in addition to the cheap aftermarket racks which are now available, clearance issues are likely to become more common.

 

While the joint is usually marketed as an upgrade, one of the underlying reasons for it's popularity is the shocking quality of current reproductions of the original type. 

 

Cheers,

Bill.

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Thanks Bill

 

I can back you up on the quality of original type joints - having given up with the UJ type I ordered an original type from one of our bigger parts suppliers - it is horrible, and it doesn't fit, I'm sending it back.

 

That makes three new joints I've bought (two different designs of UJ) and none actually fitted!

 

I've got a tub full of old joints, I see tonight that one supplier offers poly re-bushing kits - I'm thinking about that option.

 

Trevor

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Try Chris witor, he sold me a set of poybushes for the joint years ago.

If you have a really old joint where the bolts are wired to stop them undoing, it is pretty easy. If you have the type wher the bolts have been squiched, they will be hard to save. And those bolts are impossible to find new (or I never found any, but the internet was rather more limited 22 years ago) as they are shouldered. 

I have also heard of good quality viton o-rings being a good substiture, and cheap too. Buy a bag of 100 and you have a lifetime supply.

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Why spawn of the devil? They were fitted by Triumph to early heralds as standard. And I have been using them for over 20 years /100K+ miles with no problems or complaints at all (and I did have issues with the rubber bushes). And a huge part of that mileage has been done with a solid UJ in the column, fitted to all my Triumphs in the last 10 years or so (that is 4 cars! 2 still in my possession)

However, some people do prefer the less direct feel, I guess with a wood steering wheel solid mounts may feel harsh. 

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Why spawn of the devil? They were fitted by Triumph to early heralds as standard. 

 

Those fitted as original equipment to early Heralds were dowelled to the rack, providing very positive location. The Mk2 aftermarket mounts rely only on friction, with some being poorly dimensioned and cracking when clamped to the rack. If you have a good set then they will remain good, but there are plenty of reported failures.

 

Cheers,

Bill.

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and the short versions  alloy mounts allow the rack damper ( the small nylon plunger) that stops  passenger side rack rattle on poor surfaces to drop out of the rack tube  as its supported /held in place by the deeper  rubber mount

 

always amazes me how the alloys grip the tube ok as there is no abutment provision to locate the rack.    

 

solution is to add a jubilee clip to cover the plunger and its hole  ( which would be open to road dirt)

 

 

 

Pete

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When i got my Spit there was a tiny bit of play in the steering which soon became excessive and definite MoT fail. Didnt bother looking at the steering joint, but having had this problem before on past Triumphs, got a set of polybushes ... of course the joint wasnt an original but the rubbish type with the O-rings just squashed between the centre plate and spline (who thought this would work ??) so polybushes dont fit !!

 

As i needed the car on the road the next day i got the UJ type sent by Canleys, this fitted ok but was a bit harsh with alloy rack mounts which i dont want to change.

 

Not to be defeated i got an engineer friend to modify the old joint so i could fit the polybushes so hopefully this is a fit & forget solution.

 

Alan.

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