Straightsix Posted September 14 Report Share Posted September 14 Hi All My head gasket appears to be weeping oil along the left side on my mk2 Vitesse I’m unsure whether a replacement head gasket was ever replaced by previous owner prior to my purchase but thought I’d first try re torquing the head. My question is, can it be done on a hot engine ? or best when cold, adjusting my valve clearances require engine to be hot. (non std cam) TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 14 Report Share Posted September 14 I wouldnt do it hot as theres no figures for what the bolt torque should be then so you might exceed the rating when they cool down. How about measure your existing valve clearances cold (presumably theyre already set correct), retorque head and reset any changes afterwards? Think your rocker gear will have to come off but youre lucky a head torque can be done without removing the exhaust manifold unlike the MK1☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 14 Report Share Posted September 14 Be very surevthatnots kit the rocker cover leaking! If you do retorque, in rotation asvgir first torquing, undo a quarterg urn then retoque. Then go over again with the wrench without undoing. Job done! (Except for replacing the rocker shaft) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted September 14 Report Share Posted September 14 (edited) You will have to take the rocker assembly off to access all the nuts. I've just retorqued my MK2 head as John's post ie back off 1/4 turn and retorqued each nut in the correct tightening sequence. Don't loosen them all before tightening!! My bet is it's the cover, if it's the pressed steel type they warp like crazy. Squeeze a thick bead of Hylomar in the cover groove then after a few minutes fit the cork gasket to the cover and place it on a flat surface. I used the kitchen worktop then pleaded for forgiveness. Place a couple of kilos weight on the cover so all the cork is flat on the surface and wait half an hour or so for the Hylomar to set. You now have a perfectly flat cork surface to seal onto the head and also a good cork to cover seal. Iain Edited September 14 by Iain T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightsix Posted September 14 Author Report Share Posted September 14 Thanks for your replies. l have adjusted the valve clearances in the past and to be honest I wasn’t aware of any oil seepage before hand. It has an alloy cover with neoprene gasket. To the best of my knowledge I can’t see any evidence of seepage past the gasket. I have read about applying flour or talcum powder around the area to trace for leaks, so I guess that’s worth a go, if not it’ll smell nice. i am trying to love this Vitesse…honest. 🤬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 14 Report Share Posted September 14 wow it can get a lot worse than that🤣 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 15 Report Share Posted September 15 the talc is a good start so you know exactly where the oil seepage is coming from then you tackle the right problem not chase your tail . the side of the head can be leaky many use a smear of sealer along this unsupported part of the head rocker gaskets be they cork rubber or flat neoprene can make leaks you dont generally need sealer on a alloy + neoprene cover but it only takes a small graze or a bit of lost flatness and being the easiest to solve is my first check to resolve .and maybe add a smear of soft sealer . Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 15 Report Share Posted September 15 12 hours ago, johny said: wow it can get a lot worse than that🤣 Mine, yesterday, after 40 miles driving at 60 mph. Not my legs, but my oil!! If that's the rocker cover it's getting through a thick cork gasket sealed to an alloy rocker cover. The sump has also been hammered flat around the edges and sealed on both sides of the gasket with a good engine sealant. Sadly at the next stop I topped the oil up and spilled some down the rear of the engine so had no chance of spotting the cause. It's engine oil rather than gearbox. I'm still investigating, it always drips oil after use but that's the worst it's ever been. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 15 Report Share Posted September 15 Come on colin thats taking corrosion protection too far! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 15 Report Share Posted September 15 do the finger test a quick dip pongs of cats pee clean oil is gearbox black sooty smells is engine oil dont forget to wipe the pinkies Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted September 15 Report Share Posted September 15 Timing chain cover or engine front block? My cork gasket used to do a good impression of a beached Torrey Canyon. After a run about a tea cup of oil would dribble into the catch tray. Now after fitting the cork correctly it's just the occasional drip. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightsix Posted October 12 Author Report Share Posted October 12 I tried the flour method to determine oil leak around head gasket , that proved it wasn’t the rocker cover seal. So I retorqued the head gasket, but only yesterday did I take it out, so far all seems fine. Been having issues with a sticking front brake caliper on my modern so when the problem returned, I thought I’d treat her to some sexy underwear 😄 Looking to get some conversion wheel studs too, as aligning wheels with the standard bolt fixings is a right faff each time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 12 Report Share Posted October 12 8 minutes ago, Straightsix said: I tried the flour method to determine oil leak around head gasket , that proved it wasn’t the rocker cover seal. So I retorqued the head gasket, but only yesterday did I take it out, so far all seems fine. Head nuts pull up much did they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted October 12 Report Share Posted October 12 This video came up on my American Honda specialist garage you-tube channel He is actually fitting wheel spacers to an NSX, but the interesting bit is that he is using ‘wheel installations studs’ which guide the wheel on and off the hub. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwIKQ7xk2aw studs in use between 3.05 and 4.40 mins. Some thing similar is available in UK eg https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mounting-Stainless-Change-Changing-Universal/dp/B07SM78CS4/ref=asc_df_B07SM78CS4/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=365362815584&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6477029616824630087&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045685&hvtargid=pla-825816781576&th=1 Obviously you would need to know your thread size. Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 12 Report Share Posted October 12 and it wont work with our old studs but can help a modern with bolts . with so many not having a spare wheel its down to recovery or fill the tyre with the wrecking Goo Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightsix Posted October 12 Author Report Share Posted October 12 johny I didn’t pay attention to noting any differing nut position after re torquing head if that’s what you mean. although I did need to reset valve clearances after rocker shaft removal. Ian those stud aligning pins look a great idea, might have a re think 👍🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted October 12 Report Share Posted October 12 (edited) On 12/10/2024 at 11:22, Straightsix said: those stud aligning pins look a great idea Yes and the good thing is you only need one! Install it at the top to position the wheel and then when the other wheel bolts are in, whip it out and replace with the last wheel bolt. Used one on a friends Porsche Cayman. Simples! Ian Edited October 20 by Ian Foster spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 12 Report Share Posted October 12 7 hours ago, Straightsix said: Been having issues with a sticking front brake caliper on my modern so when the problem returned, I thought I’d treat her to some sexy underwear 😄 You too? My Beemer has started to smell of burning again, front N/S wheel so I reckon it's the caliper that I stripped down and cleaned not three months ago sticking again. I'll just stick with the original stuff, though, too old for sexy underwear. (Both me and the car) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightsix Posted October 12 Author Report Share Posted October 12 Colin I tried spraying and freeing off caliper seemed to do the job, I sent off for a caliper kit should it re occur, it did! Couldn’t be bothered replacing seals etc in the end so went for a complete set of standard brakes that are refurbished and offered in a choice of colours off eBay. Had a quote at my local garage and is happy to fit them at a good price saves me all the hassle, have it booked in for next week so fingers crossed. You’re welcome to the repair kit should it suit (My model ‘05 bmw e46 330d) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 13 Report Share Posted October 13 16 hours ago, Straightsix said: Colin I tried spraying and freeing off caliper seemed to do the job, I sent off for a caliper kit should it re occur, it did! Couldn’t be bothered replacing seals etc in the end so went for a complete set of standard brakes that are refurbished and offered in a choice of colours off eBay. Had a quote at my local garage and is happy to fit them at a good price saves me all the hassle, have it booked in for next week so fingers crossed. You’re welcome to the repair kit should it suit (My model ‘05 bmw e46 330d) 1998 Z3 1.9. The brakes were burning very badly on one side - 'Er Indoors noticed the smell as she got out on that side, and they were very smelly like a badly slipping clutch. I stripped down the caliper and freed up the sliders and pads, but NOT the piston, which to my shame I ignored. Now we're back to the burning smell and heatwaves rising off the disc. If I can find a reputable supplier I'll replace the piston, seal and pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted October 13 Report Share Posted October 13 Have you looked at the rubber hose supplying the caliper if it’s collapsed internally it can act like a reflux valve stopping the fluid from back to the master cylinder. I had this problem with the Sprint replaced all hoses with Goodridge SS braided nylon problem fixed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 13 Report Share Posted October 13 I'll replace the piston and seals first, then try the hose; but if the piston moves freely when the caliper is off I'll know which is to blame. I don't want to end up like this Audi, spotted today. Ouch. That hurt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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