Re Torquing cylinder head.

[Straightsix]

Hi All

My head gasket appears to be weeping oil along the left side on my mk2 Vitesse 

I’m unsure whether a replacement head gasket was ever replaced by previous owner prior to my purchase but thought I’d first try re torquing the head.

My question is, can it be done on a hot engine ? or best when cold,  adjusting my valve clearances require engine to be hot. (non std cam)

TIA

 

[johny]

I wouldnt do it hot as theres no figures for what the bolt torque should be then so you might exceed the rating when they cool down. How about measure your existing valve clearances cold (presumably theyre already set correct), retorque head and reset any changes afterwards?

Think your rocker gear will have to come off but youre lucky a head torque can be done without removing the exhaust manifold unlike the MK1☹️

[JohnD]

Be very surevthatnots kit the rocker cover leaking!

If you do retorque, in rotation asvgir first torquing, undo a quarterg urn then retoque.  Then go over again with the wrench without undoing.

Job done! (Except for replacing the rocker shaft)

[Iain T]

You will have to take the rocker assembly off to access all the nuts. I've just retorqued my MK2 head as John's post ie back off 1/4 turn and retorqued each nut in the correct tightening sequence. Don't loosen them all before tightening!!

My bet is it's the cover, if it's the pressed steel type they warp like crazy. Squeeze a thick bead of Hylomar in the cover groove then after a few minutes fit the cork gasket to the cover and place it on a flat surface. I used the kitchen worktop then pleaded for forgiveness. Place a couple of kilos weight on the cover so all the cork is flat on the surface and wait half an hour or so for the Hylomar to set. You now have a perfectly flat cork surface to seal onto the head and also a good cork to cover seal.

Iain

Edited September 14 by Iain T

[Straightsix]

Thanks for your replies.
l have adjusted the valve clearances in the past and to be honest I wasn’t aware of any oil seepage before hand.

It has an alloy cover with neoprene gasket.

To the best of my knowledge I can’t see any evidence of seepage past the gasket.

I have read about applying flour or talcum powder around the area to trace for leaks, so I guess that’s worth a go, if not it’ll smell nice.

i am trying to love this Vitesse…honest. 🤬

 

 

[johny]

wow it can get a lot worse than that🤣

[Pete Lewis]

the talc is a good start so you know exactly where the oil seepage is coming from then you tackle the 

right problem not chase your tail .

the side of the head can be leaky many use a smear of sealer along this unsupported part of the head 

rocker gaskets be they cork rubber or flat neoprene can make leaks 

you dont generally need sealer on a alloy + neoprene  cover but it only takes a small graze or a bit of lost flatness 

and being the easiest to solve is my first check to resolve .and maybe add a smear of soft sealer .

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

12 hours ago, johny said:

wow it can get a lot worse than that🤣

Mine, yesterday, after 40 miles driving at 60 mph. Not my legs, but my oil!! If that's the rocker cover it's getting through a thick cork gasket sealed to an alloy rocker cover. The sump has also been hammered flat around the edges and sealed on both sides of the gasket with a good engine sealant. Sadly at the next stop I topped the oil up and spilled some down the rear of the engine so had no chance of spotting the cause. It's engine oil rather than gearbox. I'm still investigating, it always drips oil after use but that's the worst it's ever been. 

 

[johny]

Come on colin thats taking corrosion protection too far!

[Pete Lewis]

do the finger test

a quick dip   pongs of  cats pee clean oil is gearbox      black sooty smells is engine oil

dont forget to wipe the pinkies 

Pete

[Iain T]

Timing chain cover or engine front block?

My cork gasket used to do a good impression of a beached Torrey Canyon. After a run about a tea cup of oil would dribble into the catch tray. Now after fitting the cork correctly it's just the occasional drip.

Iain

[Straightsix]

 I tried the flour method to determine oil leak around head gasket , that proved it wasn’t the rocker cover seal. So I retorqued the head gasket, but only yesterday did I take it out, so far all seems fine.

Been having issues with a sticking front brake caliper on my modern so when the problem returned, I thought I’d treat her to some sexy underwear 😄 Looking to get some conversion wheel studs too, as aligning wheels with the standard bolt fixings is a right faff each time.
 

[johny]

8 minutes ago, Straightsix said:

 I tried the flour method to determine oil leak around head gasket , that proved it wasn’t the rocker cover seal. So I retorqued the head gasket, but only yesterday did I take it out, so far all seems fine.

Head nuts pull up much did they?

[Ian Foster]

This video came up on my American Honda specialist garage you-tube channel

He is actually fitting wheel spacers to an NSX, but the interesting bit is that he is using ‘wheel installations studs’ which guide the wheel on and off the hub.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwIKQ7xk2aw  studs in use between 3.05 and 4.40 mins.

Some thing similar is available in UK eg https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mounting-Stainless-Change-Changing-Universal/dp/B07SM78CS4/ref=asc_df_B07SM78CS4/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=365362815584&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6477029616824630087&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045685&hvtargid=pla-825816781576&th=1

Obviously you would need to know your thread size.  

Ian

[Pete Lewis]

and it wont work with our old studs   but can help a modern with bolts .

with so many not having a spare wheel its down to recovery or fill the tyre with the wrecking Goo

Pete

[Straightsix]

johny I didn’t pay attention to noting any differing nut position after re torquing head if that’s what you mean. although I did need to reset valve clearances after rocker shaft removal.

Ian those stud aligning pins look a great idea, might have a re think 👍🏻

[Ian Foster]

On 12/10/2024 at 11:22, Straightsix said:

those stud aligning pins look a great idea

Yes and the good thing is you only need one!

Install it at the top to position the wheel and then when the other wheel bolts are in, whip it out and replace with the last wheel bolt.

Used one on a friends Porsche Cayman.

Simples!

Ian

Edited October 20 by Ian Foster
spelling

[Colin Lindsay]

7 hours ago, Straightsix said:

Been having issues with a sticking front brake caliper on my modern so when the problem returned, I thought I’d treat her to some sexy underwear 😄

You too? My Beemer has started to smell of burning again, front N/S wheel so I reckon it's the caliper that I stripped down and cleaned not three months ago sticking again. I'll just stick with the original stuff, though, too old for sexy underwear.  (Both me and the car)

[Straightsix]

Colin

I tried spraying and freeing off caliper seemed to do the job, I sent off for a caliper kit should it  re occur, it did!

Couldn’t be bothered replacing seals etc in the end so  went for a complete set of standard brakes that are refurbished and offered in a choice of colours off eBay.

Had a quote at my local garage and is happy to fit them at a good price saves me all the hassle, have it booked in for next week so fingers crossed.

You’re welcome to the repair kit should it suit (My model ‘05 bmw e46 330d)

 

 

[Colin Lindsay]

16 hours ago, Straightsix said:

Colin

I tried spraying and freeing off caliper seemed to do the job, I sent off for a caliper kit should it  re occur, it did!

Couldn’t be bothered replacing seals etc in the end so  went for a complete set of standard brakes that are refurbished and offered in a choice of colours off eBay.

Had a quote at my local garage and is happy to fit them at a good price saves me all the hassle, have it booked in for next week so fingers crossed.

You’re welcome to the repair kit should it suit (My model ‘05 bmw e46 330d)

 

 

1998 Z3 1.9. The brakes were burning very badly on one side - 'Er Indoors noticed the smell as she got out on that side, and they were very smelly like a badly slipping clutch. I stripped down the caliper and freed up the sliders and pads, but NOT the piston, which to my shame I ignored. Now we're back to the burning smell and heatwaves rising off the disc. If I can find a reputable supplier I'll replace the piston, seal and pads.

[Peter Truman]

Have you looked at the rubber hose supplying the caliper if it’s collapsed internally it can act like a reflux valve stopping the fluid from back to the master cylinder.

I had this problem with the Sprint replaced all hoses with Goodridge SS braided nylon problem fixed!

[Colin Lindsay]

I'll replace the piston and seals first, then try the hose; but if the piston moves freely when the caliper is off I'll know which is to blame. I don't want to end up like this Audi, spotted today. Ouch. That hurt.