djn Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Hi, Has anyone have experience of fitting these kits? (Shack Tune hub spacer kit) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl/Blah.pl?m-1357991518/s-0/ That has a thread about them, worth a read. Many of the people commenting REALLY know their stuff. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 After speaking to Nick Jones at the weekend, I'm going to get a set. I might even go for the the Timken bearings as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Hello All These appear good prices? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141933732613?_trksid=p2060353.m2748.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141933732612?_trksid=p2060353.m2748.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I am going to change mine I already have one set of timken bearings I picked up at a small local show for £5!!! I get brake knock back and pad rattle so hopefully will cure it? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Yep, but there you have linked to the big bearings and the smaller spacer, you want the matching set! James Shackford is a top Triumph bloke, nothing but decent quality stuff. Buy with confidence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djn Posted April 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Hi I purchased a set of spacers & timken bearings from "Triumphstuff" on ebay (James Shackford I think). Very quick delivery. I was just wondering about other members experience with fitting the kits before I fit mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Hello Clive I know that now after stripping hubs down both Rimmers and Moss list Spitfire as same as TR6 GHB 110 & GHB 111 not GHB 101 & GHB 102 they must know by now they have it wrong? I have 1 car set of Timken's now for TR6 etc but at least the brother in law has a TR6 I will try and convince him they are a good investment! Roger ps the best part is I have been carrying one as a spare in the boot its probably done about 10,000 miles to Spa ,Le Mans and Spain! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 RB are correct (99.9% certain) as the TR cars do share the same little bearings as spitfires etc (who said be careful with big wheels on a spit?) whereas the GT6/vit bearing is common to the dolomites. Seems mad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Hello Clive You correct as usual it was me getting mixed up having picked up a timken pair for GT6 etc thinking they would be the same. Its no wonder the TR6 lot worry about front wheel bearings and have failures such a small size and with the lorry engine up front as well? I think things are against me at the moment? I checked prices on line for quality bearings and found club shop to be a good price! Went to order them today and told only 1 pair in stock so I thought not to worry 1 of the pair I have removed do not have a mark on them just a nice run in look(only changing both because cheap and prefer both to be same age) Then!!! while cleaning everything up ready to reassemble I noticed both!!!! track rod end boots had split and they are only 12months old and are NOS UK made? So I have ordered some boots from this man. http://www.balljointboots.co.uk/ Its funny how simple jobs Escelate(Ha Bl****y Ha) Roger ps I wonder what will have fell off or rotted while I have been at lunch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyTV8 Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 I mentioned on a recent thread that I have a set of these waiting to go on my 4, although mine came from TRE for a few pounds less http://www.triumphspecialtuning.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40&product_id=87 ....... Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 7, 2016 Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 Roger depends what you have to supplement your lunch....don't look Ethel !! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 Hello all I have been playing? with the spacer kit today. The instructions say adjust shims to give no play? when nut tightened to 35ftlbs But when you look at Timken and SKF sites they all say to leave a few thou clearance? So now I am confused(easy to do) If I adjust them to no play what happens when the hub gets hot and expands? So should I try and adjust to say 0.001" to 0.002" clearance? It would still clamp the inner races to stop them spinning on the stub axle and possibly stop flexing?(Spitfire not TR6 with lorry engine up front) Thoughts? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 I think the idea is that the centres of the bearings and the spacer lock up solid. Just like a modern bearing pack. The actual bearings should have enough "play" in then to cope with expansion etc. That was my take on how they work. If in doubt contact James Shackford, he should be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyTV8 Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 I think the idea is that the centres of the bearings and the spacer lock up solid. Just like a modern bearing pack. The actual bearings should have enough "play" in then to cope with expansion etcl. Yep, that's the way I believe they are intended to be set up ...... Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Hello Both When all else fails read the instructions properly? James says adjust to zero to 0.002" So I will have another go and aim at zero to a nats. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Hello All An update on this been out on the first longish drive (100 miles)since fitting this kit. I seem to have lost my pad rattle? and the brake pedal is a lot more positive all the time. I forgot to check to see that nothing is getting to hot in the hub area. So overall I am pleased with the result and I like the idea of the nut being done up tight not rattling on the split pin. I will check for play when more miles covered(after Spa) I am lying I will have to have a quick look before! Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyTV8 Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Well done Roger, sounds good so far ....... Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 There bearing design differences between a fwd cassette bearing the inner rotates with the shafts and the outer is a light fit so the outer will rotate slowly , this spreads the impact loads so the outer is never left injust one position, the opposite on floating hubs the outer is a light press fit and rotates around the inner track the inner is a Light fit on the stub so it will again rotate so the impact load is never in the same place this protects bearing life this would explain why with a spacer kit you need 0.00 to 0.002" ie little end float but not clamped solid in any tension this would still allow the inner rings to rotate as they should . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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