** 26/02/23 Heading Up ** Probably how not to restore a Herald!

[Bordfunker]

Many years ago when I was temping while at university, I worked in the warehouse of a freight forwarding company, and one corner was set aside for storage for the local Ford factor, and I always remember the ranks of new wings for Mk1 & 2 escorts, as well as the early Capris and Granadas. I wonder what they would be worth now?

Back to triumphs, and one in particular, namely mine.

We left it with the driver's side differential output shaft in bits on the bench, but with the old seal still in situ.

Now I tried drifting out the old seal, but it wouldn't budge, so ended up cutting the seal with a cutting disk in my Dremmel knock off, which did leave me with a very battered old seal.

Good job I don't need it, as I have this to replace it with.

It took a couple of attempts to get the new seal in, finally using a large washer, and a socket in the vice, to get the seal in, but not before manging to distort one of them in the process, which I will now need to tease back into shape.

I will be painting the entire differential when it's back together, but took the opportunity to clean up these components and give them a quick coat of primer as protection.

Tomorrow I'll drift the bearing back on, and refit the circlip, after which the driver's side output shaft is complete.

I did make a start on the passenger side output shaft today. but the bearing is proving resistant to all my attempts to shift it, and has boken 3 lots of studding so far, so we'll put that to one side for now, and move onto something more productive.

I did have better luck with the seal on the nose of the diff, which came out without too much of a struggle.

All looks reasuringly clean & tidy in there, the same can't be said abou the old seal.

Thankfully the new one is substantially better, old and new side by side.

The seal drifted in with little effort using an off cut of scaffolding pole, however I think I may have drifted it in a little too far, as it's sitting about 0.5-1mm below the nose of the diff, so may have to sort this out later in the week.

With both output shafts removed, and the bolts holding the two halves of the diff together, there was nothing to keep it all together anymore, and the two section separated without issue, allowing me to remove the old gasket and clean up the mating faces.

Next time I'll apply the new gasket, along with the silicone sealant, and pop the two halves back together again.

Overall not bad progress for a couple of hours in the garage, but I'll need to find a way of removing that bearing on the passenger side output shaft if I'm to get this done this week.

All suggestions gratefully recieved on how to overcome this.

Karl

[Pete Lewis]

Big vice big hammer and a new bearing after youve bashed it all round the workshop

Its not good practice to paint coupling mating faces , they need to grip not just rely on bolts and slippery paint surfaces

Pete

[Bordfunker]

Pete, thanks for the heads up, I’ll sand the mating faces clean before I fit the drive shafts.

Are the plates that the output shaft seals are mounted in, supposed to have sealant between them and the body of the diff?

Mine look like they did have some originally, but the seals look to have been replaced at some point as they are marked Unipart, rather than Stanpart.

Karl

[Pete Lewis]

I would use something I love thats loctite 574 for all face to face joints after many trials on production this stuff won by miles on leak solving.   (Was a few years ago things change )

Strangley there are no gaskets shown for  the short shaft  mounting plates      

So seal em to belt and braces the leakability

Pete

[Bordfunker]

Pete this is what I picked up to seal the various differential components.

I figured it was designed to be oil proof, and it was from Loctite, and therefore should be good for the job.

In breaking news I managed to get the bearing off of the passenger side output shaft, but only after investing in some 12mm studding to replace the plasticene ones that came with the bearing separarter kit.

Having said that, the bearing still managed to bend one peice of studding! Made of tough stuff these Triumphs!

I also got the old seal out, which looked to be barely hanging in there, and practically fell off.

With that out of the way, it all received a quick whizz over with a rotary wire brush, and a blast of primer, but I didn't take any pics!

I figure you've seen one of these, you've seen them all.

However I did get the driver's side shaft back together, utilising my 3 legged puller, in 2 legged mode, and in reverse to pull the bearing back down onto the taper, quickly followed by the circlip, which went on with nair a fight!

Doesn't that look better?

And just to ensure that I keep track of which side is which, I put a mark on to remind me.

I'll let you work out what the D stands for........

Karl

[mark powell]

Dat side or d other side?

[Bordfunker]

Damn, my infallible marking system has been rumbled!

With the driver's side output shaft rebuilt, I decided to start putting the diff back together, starting with cleaning all of the mating surfaces with panel wipe.

I tapped all of the bolt holes in the diff ahead of reassembly, as well as cleaning out the non-threaded holes to be on the safe side, following which it was time to break out the gasket and gloop.

This stuff is seriously thick, and requires some real pressure to get it out of the nozzle, hence the manufacturer including the rather 70's looking cornedbeef tin winder!

Having said that, it goes on nicely, and oozes to form a nice rubberised seal once dry.

I did make sure that both of the output shafts fitted properly before torquing up the diff bolts, as a little jiggling was required to make sure that everything meshed as it should.

With that lot together, I inserted the diver's side output shaft, having given the area a good clean up first.

Again I used the sealant as there is no gasket on this joint, and the joint shows signs of previoiusly having some form of sealant applied, though none is mentioned in the WSM. Note the ooze around the edge, which I'll trim back with a sharp knife once it's all set.

Can you see what I've done?

It was at this point thaI've only gone and fitted the driver's side outputshaft to the passenger side of the diff! What a muppet!

Not the end of the world, I'll swap them round at the weekend.

I did reassemble the passenger side output shaft, which went together with minimal fuss, however the same couldn't be said of the bolts securing it.

The top right one just wouldn't do up, and that' because it was actually bent!

I know one of them had been quite difficult to remove, and I am guessing it was that one, so I'll need to order a new allen headed bolt, before swapping the output shafts back to their original sides, and sealing everything up.

Aside from putting the wrong shaft in the wrong hole (Matron!), not a bad afternoon's work.

Off out tomorrow, so unlikely to make any progress until Friday.

Karl

[mark powell]

That'l be D other side then....

[Pete Lewis]

thats the long and the short of it then 

 

[poppyman]

So the D stands for Duuuuuuuuhhhhhhh    We have all been there Karl.

Tony.

[Pete Lewis]

Im thinking  doughnut    Ha !!!

We need a page for  Tee shirts  we have senior and blonde moments we could get kevin to move  this over   

Reminds me of back in the 60s  my rusty 948 sheared a short shaft so in the snow and dark removed the whole diff to find I could have popped it out in situ ....you learn as the years drift by.

Pete

[Bordfunker]

11 hours ago, poppyman said:

So the D stands for Duuuuuuuuhhhhhhh    We have all been there Karl.

Tony.

Starting to feel like I’ve taken up residence there!

Karl

[Bordfunker]

First order of business today had to be fixing Thursday's cock up with the output shafts.

D is for Driver's side, and that is where the output shaft with the D on, now is!

I can confirm that the Loctite sealant is very good at bonding metal surfaces together, which is good to know, as hopefully these won't be coming out for a good long time!

With that done, and the weather so good, time to lock myself in a garage with a bellowing compressor, howling vacuum cleaner and a blast cabinet, well what else would you do on such a glorious bank holiday?

Do you remember right back at the start of this thread I removed the heater because it wasn't working properly, which is when I found the rot in the top of the bulkhead, and started off down this rabbit hole?

No neither did I, but apparently I did, so having rediscovered the heater casing components, for this being a Delaney Gallay unit, rather than the more common Smith's unit, it has many individual comnponents, and can't have been very economical to produce, I decided to give them a clean up in preparation for paint.

About an hour and a half in the blast cabinet left me with this lot.

The reason it took so long, aside from the multiple components, was because of the fact the paint had been applied with a bog brush, and was painfully thin in some places, such that the merest whiff of air and blast media took me back to bare metal, while in others I had to resort to a strip disc, and even that struggled.

And to prove that I can remember vaguely how it's supposed to fit together.

OK the front cover is 90 degrees out, but it's 3 years since I took this off the car as a quick fix!

The next half an hour was spent cleaning up the differential yoke as there was still grot stuck in some of the crevises, which needed removal ahead of paint being applied.

The eagle eyed will have spotted the fact that 3 star washers have now come off, don't worry I haven't lost them, they have been cleaned up and put away safely withn the bolts themselves, which have also been cleaned up.

I then had a go at one of the bolts that I'd missed from the last blasting session, but this one won't be going back on the car.

I think we can all agree that one is toast!

It's one of the track control arm mount bolts from the passenger side, so will be going on the scrap pile, while my shopping cart on Paddock's site will grow by one item.

Tomorrow I need to remove the last of the underseal from the diff, after which it will get a coat of rust stopper, as the heater components have already done this evening, and then everything will get a coat of epoxy mastic primer, followed by a coat of black.

Karl

[mark powell]

Snap!     Well almost....

Just about to refit these brackets on the Midge, but I forgot to order new UNF bolts.  There maybe metric bolts going in...

[Anglefire]

That's just the F1 spec one that has been lightened for speed........

[Pete Lewis]

They are notorious for rust waisting inside the chassis where you cant see the impending disaster

Dont forget which way up the bracket goes or you get very odd geometry,  

Pete

[Bordfunker]

Mark, that looks terrifying!

Mine is definitely in better shape, but I still wouldn’t want to use it again.

Pete, definitely a case of take plenty of photos before you strip everything down.

One of the benefits of this thread is that I can go back and review many of the photos for detail references.

Karl

[Bordfunker]

Despite the lack of an update yesterday, I wasn't idle, spending a couple of hours cleaning the last of the underseal from the differential.

Shiny.....

....and then not so shiny as i applied a coat of rust stopper.

Also in the pile for a coat of rust stopper was the diff yoke and the front flange.

All of which left me in a position to actually apply some paint today, in this case epoxy mastic primer.

Diff all shiny again.

Along with the yoke and with the passenger side upright just sneaking into frame.

The shock absorbers and trailing links also got a final coat of primer, along with the handbrake components and trailing link brackets.

Not to be left out, the spring leaves also got in on the act.

But Karl, that isn't a full complement of leaves I hear you cry!

Don't worry I haven't lost them, they are just with the other items getting a dab of paint. Note even the trailing link spacers getting paint!

Yes the heater components are getting some attention, well the bits that I could reach at least.

I really need to work on how I arrange workpieces for spraying, as I was left unable to reach certain areas of each component, so they'll need to give these bits another coat of paint on the bits I missed.

The epoxy mastic sprayed beautifully, using a boggo-basic gravity spraygun with a 1.5mm tip, at about 40 PSI, and I have to say that a little goes a long way, and when it's dry it's extremely tough stuff.

I'll probably let that lot harden off for a week, before touching in the bits I've missed, and then hopefully getting a coat of gloss black down.

Karl

[Pete Lewis]

And dont forget clean the paint off the coupling mating faces

These faces need to grip not lubed with slippy paint surfaces

Pete

[Bordfunker]

Pete, the paint will be removed before they are fitted to the car, however that won’t be for a few months, I’ll the paint on for now.

The aim is to get the bulkhead repairs completed, after which the chassis can be fully painted, after which the rear suspension and drive train can go back on.

Karl

[Bordfunker]

Another weekend, another round of painting, despite the efforts of storm Hannah.

Saturday was a wash out painting wise, quite literally, so I did some clean up work on the remaining tinware from the heater, which first meant removing the fan assembly.

Now I had sort of started 'removing it' previously, by dropping it on the floor, which left me with this.

The central hub of the fan was stuck on the motor spindle, mainly due to the effects of 50 years of rust and grot, meaning that I had to use copious amounts of WD40, and judicious use of force.

The aim is to Araldite this lot back together, including the broken blades, as I figure this should be a strong enough repair given it's only a heater fan.

With the broken fan hub removed, I was able to remove the motor and clean it up.

Taking me from this, to this....

It looks like the motor was originally bare metal, so before the motor goes back in it will get a coat of clear varnish.

Which just left the final bit of heater tinware to be cleaned up and given a coat of primer.

Everything else that didn't get painted last week, got painted today, especially the bits that I'd fortgotten last week, like the spring retaining plate.

Along with the sides of the heater box that I'd been unable to access last week.

You can see just how rusty the inside of the heater box was getting from the pitting.

The back of the main heater box shows similar pitting at it's lower edge, however you can't see it in this photo, although you can see the blob of paint I managed to drop on it after painting. That'll get rubbed down before I apply the final coat of gloss black in a few weeks.

After the painting, which takes 10 minutes, and the following clean up which takes a whole lot longer, I fired up the blast cabinet and started cleaning up the handbrake components, and that was the limit of progress this week.

And that was another weekend gone.

Karl

[Pete Lewis]

i would get a modern motor and fan  ,

the fans are balanced if its wonky it will drive you mad     

Pete

[Bordfunker]

8 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

i would get a modern motor and fan

Pete, where would the fun be in that?

Karl

[Pete Lewis]

i dont now but im sure you will tell us how this works out 

Darren in devon has done a script on a modernised one 

Pete

[Bordfunker]

No update last week as I was in York for a family wedding, and this Saturday was spent doing all the stuff that didn't get done last weekend due to being York eating and drinking too much.

So having primed the main components of the heater assembly last time, I dug out the screws and bolts that I'd put aside 3 years ago, and put them through the blast cabinet.(Can I just say how much I love having a blast cabinet!)

These were then given a quick blast of etch primer.

Along with some of the handbrake components, all of which then got a coat of gloss black from a rattle can.

I could of course have painted these with all of the rest of the suspension components, but figured it was easier doing these with a rattle can.

With that lot out of the way and drying, I set about starting to flat back the components that I primed the other week.

First up were the leaves of the spring.

They will get sprayed separately for the final coat of gloss black, but I stacked them up to keep them altogether and stop me falling over them on a regular basis.

Can I just say how boring and slow flatting down is, as this is all that I managed to get done in an hour and a half.

Which still leaves the rest of the heater, the diff & yoke, and the upright to flat back next week, before applying a top coat of gloss black epoxy mastic.

The aim is to get the diff & heater painted and rebuilt, and then I can set them aside and start work on the drift shafts and hubs, one of which looks to be shot as there is about 4mm of back and forth movement of the shaft in the hub, so I am assuming a new driveshaft and bearings may be required. This would go some way to explaining the heavy vibration I used to get at speeds above 50, that and the lack of a full complement of body to chassis mounting bolts!

Karl