Jump to content

Inlet manifold adaptor?


Adrian
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello all

 

Thought I'd be going to cars in the park this weekend but whilst stripping to cooling system I encountered the below

post-1605-0-11659900-1498661064_thumb.jpg

 

I knew the water pipe was bulging when I bought it but never thought the metal pipe fitting would have been totally corroded! I did note luminous green antifreeze rather than blue was in the system.

 

Can I ask what I need to replace this? Rimmers has a 'y' adaptor kit for £75, or a heater adaptor assembly for £46.50. Paddock has a banjo adaptor for £28.50. Canleys are £31.50 (adaptor inlet manifold - brass).

 

Whats the part actually called? I assume I will need the fibre washers  - would you suggest anything else while I'm at it?

 

I'll obviously flush the system and have a new radiator.

 

Thanks

 

Adrian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Adrian,

 

The nut head will strip off straight away when you try to remove the banjo assembly. Once it has happened you should weld the largest bolt you can get through/to the remaining inner section. Using a socket, lots of heat and oil over time the banjo bolt will come out.

 

Work it back and forward.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Adrian.

 

Before rushing in to strip stuff out etc, it will be worth doing the following:

 

Remove the bunged up rubber pipe in the photo and replace with new - do not connect it yet.

 

With a wire coat hanger give the area a good poke about to free off any solids.

 

Pour some near on boiling water in to the pipe and tube openings and this will assist in dissolving the solids.

 

When you think you have got most of it out and things are looking up, refit the pipework and fill-up with rad flush and water. Do not bother with anti-freeze etc yet.

 

Run the engine up to get the flush circulating, hopefully this will help to remove any residue of the solids etc. You may need to do this a few times until all the muck has cleared before your final coolant top up.

 

Not being able to physically assess your situation, the above is a possible option that may well work and get you to "Cars in the Park" but be prepared to spend a few hours clearing the muck out. Also worth checking the flexing in your other small hoses to see if there may be any other solids causing problems.

 

The above is a cheap process - hope it works.

 

Good luck.

 

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tick for Dave

 

Whilst the head didn't shear independently it was fused to the Banjo housing. The picture is what I have left. Is there enough left to weld or is it a removal of the manifold and take to an engineer or replace? Given the condition is it likely to have been original.

 

Clive - I take your point but there wasn't enough left to re-attach a pipe. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello John.

 

Yes of course, seen it now.....................................sorry Adrian.

 

I would go for the brass unit that Canley's is selling.

 

The other job I would consider is replacing the mild steel bypass pipe (if not already done) that runs parallel to the block. This corrodes and any tampering with it will cause it to leak and / or snap. Stainless steel replacements via Canley's are available and a good idea to do it. About £30 for the whole kit.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You will probably need to remove the manifold now to get decent access ,

 

the brass units are well made, had to change one on my 2000 when we got her , well corroded stubs

and the banjo bolt unscrewed with the fingers...very abnormal

 

Be prepared for a bit of struggle

 

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A big struggle.... try remove the metal and not the housing! Plenty of heat, a little bit of light tapping of the housing will free up the metal and allow it to be screwed out but it's going to be solidly fused to the housing after many years, so make sure any bits removed are the insert and not the housing. It will in all probability require retapping. As posted above you can get the bolt in stainless, but if you have any difficulty getting the Y piece (I haven't checked if they're available) I have a spare one about somewhere. and yes you'll need the two fibre washers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Colin - Paddocks have one.

 

Is Chris Witor the only place to get a stainless steel banjo bolt from? £25 seem a bit steep.

 

As I'm now going to have to remove the manifold do I assume a renewal of the gaskets as well - anything else before my pockets become too long for my arms?

 

I will get a replacement SS bypass pipe as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Adrian.

 

Ideally you should replace the gasket, some do not - it's a personal choice. If the current exhaust / inlet one is okay you can keep it as a decent spare.

 

When you get the s/s bypass ensure you get the olive and the new gland that screws in to the WP housing; a few wraps of PTFE will assist when reassembling or Instant Gasket

 

The gland that fits in to the housing (photo 130) is likely to be seriously encrusted so it will be very useful to spray Plus Gas or similar on it an hour or so beforehand. You may well find that a long bar to break the thread after soaking will be needed. 

 

The process was simpler for me as I was replacing the head at the time so able to have good access. Worse case scenario you may need to remove the water pump housing to get full on with the gland - hopefully not !!

 

I've attached a few photos to show why changing the pipe is a good idea as I think the PO had some issues with it !!!!

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

post-818-0-71921900-1498739033_thumb.jpg

post-818-0-06910200-1498739063_thumb.jpg

post-818-0-40616600-1498739096_thumb.jpg

post-818-0-61339600-1498739120_thumb.jpg

post-818-0-54751800-1498739500_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Clive

 

Below is the condition of the manifold and engine after a quick clean up.

 

post-1605-0-95543100-1498740716_thumb.jpgpost-1605-0-47361300-1498740767_thumb.jpgpost-1605-0-89905600-1498740803_thumb.jpg

 

As you can see, the other end has also corroded. Any guidance as to what this is as it doesn't appear to have a specific part number.

 

I think I bought a car with a very neglected cooling system - I won't even show you the radiator! I knew there was a reason why I hadn't touched the engine since I bought it 18 months ago.

 

Now the big question - as the engine is part stripped - should I look at the entire cooling system - open pump housing, thermostat, etc? I'm in two minds as to whether abandon this year and sort the engine and bay - more of that under the engine forum. I'd sooner have the car sorted rather than a make do job.

 

Any thoughts.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Adrian.

 

Personally, I would say go for a full cooling system overhaul, what have you to lose getting to this stage of disassembly ??

 

1. give the rad an extensive wash through getting rid of all the sludge, it will require back flushing a few times until it runs clear. You can then give it a quick lick of spray paint to "freshen" it up if you think the rad is worth it.

 

2. the heater matrix will also require a good clean and back flush

 

3. hoses - if in doubt change them, some go the silicone route

 

4. remove the water pump and unless 100% happy replace it with a decent unit - I got mine from Canley's

 

5. s/s bypass already covered

 

6. take off the thermostat housing and check you have a thermostat - mine did not, the PO bodged the corroded housing to fit but could not fit the thermostat the corrosion was so bad !! Ensure the housing seats well, they do corrode.

 

7. I replaced my mechanical fan for an electric unit - personal choice

 

8. check the core plugs and ensure no leaks / weeping

 

once all that is done put it back together again, flush through a few times, add corrosion inhibitor or AF and hit the road for testing.

 

come home with a smug smile and one less system to worry about !!

 

If I have missed anything I am sure you will be updated.

 

Good luck.

 

Richard.

 

PS: who is this Clive you keep referring to ???????????????????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Richard

 

Really sorry - like my manifold I'm crumbling under the stress of it all!! Unlike my problems, Clive was a figment of my imagination.

 

And while I'm on, how come all of the expertise is down south or Northern Ireland! I live about 25 miles from where the cars were made but there doesn't seem to be a particularly strong technical presence here.

 

Although fingers crossed, Ian Gittings lives about 5 miles away who appears to be a manifold specialist! Just trying to contact him. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am here!

 

Ian Gittings is a top bloke. Proper engineer, makes (or made) the hub pullers and other such stuff sold by the club, also manifolds etc. 

 

Probably a lot less grief to let him sort it out, and it will be a proper job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...