Paul H Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Ive reconditioned AC Fuel Pump , new diaphram, valves , New Accuspark Dizzy , Coil, Smiths emission control valve cleaned out - The diaphram has started to crack but not all the way through so just ordered replacement .The temperature compensators fitted to CDSE are blocked off ( Thanks Pete ) The Carbs had worked fine before so happy that CDSE's are suitable though not ideal - needles are B5CF Had initial issues starting , stripped the carbs and found slivers of the dreaded black stuff ( R9) in both the needle valve entries Reassembled carbs, needle valves checked , Clear tubing now replaces small 2" sections of R9 (no more slivers as petrol filter in place by the carbs) Carb floats checked at 18mm , Pistons raise and drop as they should. Added a clear tubing balancer - I had previously just blocked these ports with tubing with bolt inset ( see pic ) Engine started after fuel got through though not healthy. With Choke engine revs went initially high then started to waver then high again as if there was a block somewhere . Engine heated up and pushed in choke and engine revs wavering . Then noticed rear carb leaking like a sieve - this normally means blocked needle valve - I know I have to strip and check though is there something im missing ?????? The pic clearly shows fuel leaking through gasket Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 I'd suspect it's more slivers of rubber. I have no idea where they hide but I've had to drop the float bowls off two or three times after "fixing" the source before now. I've reached the stage where I'm paranoid about touching any of the pipework around the carbs! Where did you source the clear fuel hose BTW? I've yet to find any that is ethanol proof. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Clear fuel hose is not ethanol proof - but better than a sliver - I can keep an eye on the clear pipe and on the look out for suitable clear pipe - Off to dismantle carbs again !! Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Paul, I don't want to be pessimistic, but the slivers come from pushing the brass bundy tube into the flexible fuel hose. Is there any chance you've exchanged black slivers for the see-through variety? Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 I replaced the whole section from pump to carbs with rubber hose, so only two rubber to metal connections and much less chance of slivers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Hi Wayne - you are correct - removed rear carb and needle valve - blew out another black sliver - see pic - Ill repeat the process on the front carb just in case and replace both needle valves as i have spares . Thanks for input Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 not keen on those float gaskets there's a lot showing outside, but there are a whole range of gaskets which all look about right but some dont cover the corners properly , there are changes as the carbs evolved over the years you may just have the wrong gasket many kits now come with about 5 gaskets to cover the years , doesnt help with not starting but may solve your leak take bowl off again!! and lay gasket on to see it matches all way round especially the corners Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Glad you got it sorted Paul. I got very adept at dropping the float bowls off at the side of the road whilst chasing the remaining slivers around the system. I always found the proximity of the hot exhaust manifold to a float bowl brimming with petrol in my hand particularly nerve wracking! Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Wayne, petrol on hot exhaust manifold, extremely unlikely to ignite. But brake fluid on manifold, that's guaranteed to ignite! Another reason to go silicon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Doug, I never knew that! Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 not keen on those float gaskets there's a lot showing outside, but there are a whole range of gaskets which all look about right but some dont cover the corners properly , there are changes as the carbs evolved over the years you may just have the wrong gasket many kits now come with about 5 gaskets to cover the years , doesnt help with not starting but may solve your leak take bowl off again!! and lay gasket on to see it matches all way round especially the corners Pete Hi pete. Gaskets supplied by turners Spare gaskets are the same and leak as soon as gasket level is reached. Could i use welseal on the gaskets or instead of Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 if its leaking from the gasket face then its either the wrong gasket for the generation of your carb or theres a crack or face problem with the body or the bowl surfaces if you look at the bowl there is a small sealing rib all around the gasket face to make sure it seals by design my guess you have the wrong shaped gasket sealers wont really work and will soon start to give up and leak lay the gasket on the bowl...... look for the cock up........ bet one corner is lettting fresh air in and petrol ...out if you fancy a trip to Sunny Luton with them i can soon locate and fix your leak its not rocket science let me know Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 May be lucky, though never had the sliver problem (will now Iv'e said that). Iv'e always sanded any sharper corners/ burrs off the male metal stubs, put a smear of vaseline on them and lined up straight to gently push on. Maybe this has helped?. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Like what Pete says, There an awful lot of gasket variations and they are not straight away obvious when you put them on. Why did they do this?!! Only Big G knows. I to have never had a sliver problem. My pipes have rounded ends and one rubber pipe between pump and carbs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Yes dave, good idea, its still my experience tells me the gasket does not match the shape of the bowl face its a common problem thats why most kits contain many gaskets all slightly different you have to be careful at selecting the correct one. I have never come across a 'universal' bowl gasket Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 if its leaking from the gasket face then its either the wrong gasket for the generation of your carb or theres a crack or face problem with the body or the bowl surfaces if you look at the bowl there is a small sealing rib all around the gasket face to make sure it seals by design my guess you have the wrong shaped gasket sealers wont really work and will soon start to give up and leak lay the gasket on the bowl...... look for the cock up........ bet one corner is lettting fresh air in and petrol ...out if you fancy a trip to Sunny Luton with them i can soon locate and fix your leak its not rocket science let me know Pete Hi Pete , heres a pic of the gasket in position , It covers all areas so no corners missing - Is it the correct one ?? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 thats looking ok , whats ite bowl fit like , i dont see great markings to show the bowl fits the gasket these are two flat surfaces apart from the small raised rib to aid sealing, and if its leaking somewhere something doest fit or is distorted lay the gasket on the bowl see it it matches while the car is off fill with petrol and look carefully to see where its letting it out , petrol does creep and can leak 'here' and drip 'there' something is obviously amiss , at least you have the floats the right way up for the double armed float. they look a bit on the low side ( high fuel level) 18mm from deck to float is normal pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 Hi Pete , heres a pic of the gasket in position , It covers all areas so no corners missing - Is it the correct one ?? Paul Hi Pete , just changed the needle valves and noticed the ones I took off were marked 1.75 and the spares purchased are marked 1.5 . At first glance they are the same though the orifice on the 1.75 is larger - Will this make a difference Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 thats looking ok , whats ite bowl fit like , i dont see great markings to show the bowl fits the gasket these are two flat surfaces apart from the small raised rib to aid sealing, and if its leaking somewhere something doest fit or is distorted lay the gasket on the bowl see it it matches while the car is off fill with petrol and look carefully to see where its letting it out , petrol does creep and can leak 'here' and drip 'there' something is obviously amiss , at least you have the floats the right way up for the double armed float. they look a bit on the low side ( high fuel level) 18mm from deck to float is normal pete Hi Pete , the raised groove all the way round is very low on the petrol bowl - Just stripped out the CD150's I have for rebuild and the groove is very noticeable - As the CDSE are refurbed the groove has been ground down with the cleaning process - does this make sense Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 yes the rib is quite important sealing back up , who refurbed these things ??? 1.75 its the diameter of the seating, but i would expect the float to work it its same set up and float on a CD175 which uses bigger ones and whatever the fuel should never leak from the gasket zone only up the jet or out the breather port in the front face Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 Im now beginning to doubt the grey matter, about twin arm floats..... which way up, everywhere you look its got the two chances rivet plate on top or under this seriously alters the fueling levels and valve reliability from memory the float sits in the fuel at an angle, ie what looks right ...... is wrong so turn it over !!! having searched around through all my manuals and online this delicate bit of information seems very mixed later spec stroms have a float level of 16-17mm but as for which way the answers seem 50/50 GRRRrrrrrrrr !!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 yes the rib is quite important sealing back up , who refurbed these things ??? 1.75 its the diameter of the seating, but i would expect the float to work it its same set up and float on a CD175 which uses bigger ones and whatever the fuel should never leak from the gasket zone only up the jet or out the breather port in the front face Hi Pete - dry fitted the carbs and there 2 areas which dont fit flush - ie I can slide in a feeler gauge all the way through . rear carb area where i know it has leaked in the past is 4thou and the area in front has a 2 thou gap - Next is to dry fit with the cd150 bowl ( with a higher ridge ) and measure for gaps . Turner Carbs refurbed these CDSE's Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 just make sure the other bowls have the same face contour ,, if older they can be different...back to the gasket scenario two gaskets might just solve the leak been over fettled , you have just found what Ive come across , they look pretty but "££$%^& the rest can be a bit variable not cheap and not so good . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 just make sure the other bowls have the same face contour ,, if older they can be different...back to the gasket scenario two gaskets might just solve the leak been over fettled , you have just found what Ive come across , they look pretty but "££$%^& the rest can be a bit variable not cheap and not so good . Pete Hi Pete , you are correct as usual !! The bowls are different shapes so looks like a double gasket + turning over the floats and setting to 16 - 17 mm Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 good luck. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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