68vitesse Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 Does any one know of a source for better quality gasket for the manifold head joint?, the current ones on offer are thinner than original and do not have reinforcing at the holes for the studs. After a drive this morning now have a leak on number 1 exhaust port and not to sure on another, current gasket lasted less than two years in use. Many thanks Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algy Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 I have not seen any. I wouldn’t want reinforcing around the stud holes but it would be nice to have a folded metal ring around the exhaust ports. The big problem for this gasket is it has two very different jobs to do: sealing high temp / high pressure exhaust gases and low temp / low pressure inlet mixture, unlike a cross flow engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 ive found many Mk1 gaskets are all cut incorrectly and ports and stud holes are misaligned never had any troubles with MK2 ones dont know who to suggest Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted April 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 Agree with Pete repro are not good hence the question. Have thought of trying to make my own, only ever done paper gaskets wonder what the practicalities would be. Gasket is long and not very wide with some quite narrow bits, will have to see what Ebay offers. NOS gaskets would be the other thing to try but how have they been stored down the years?. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 (edited) Would Chic Doig/Canley have better ones,as they work on these cars?. Mick Dolphin NOS?. Gasket cement if no joy?. Dave Edited April 8, 2018 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 My last one came from Mark Field at Jigsaw Racing and has been fine; and with a tubular manifold that probably flex's more than a cast one. Along the line of Dave's comment he uses them on his cars. Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted April 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Running out of exhaust manifolds, nice crack in the leg and bit missing from No1 exhaust gasket. Also surprised at how loose the nuts were on the end studs rest of bolts and nuts felt ok never read anything about retightening the manifold like cylinder heads. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Hi Paul. What has caused the cracking, is this a common thing please?. Thanks, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted April 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Had a couple crack in over the twenty years I've had the car don't know if it's bad design, age or just unlucky. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 Thanks. I guess hairline cracks, could fill in with carbon, though maybe the cracks get more severe over time?. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted April 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 On one of them one of the legs broke of complely cannot remember if it was one or six, cracks will only get worse. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 Think mk1 are more prone to this m2 perhaps a better design, Heat expansion stress has to be the main culprit, and I guess how the pipework is supported have an effect There is no sequence to the tightening just a normal should be equal and low torque 5/16 = 12lbft and the 3/8 =20 lbft So much lower than a std bolt, guess this is to allow some panting and shift on the graphite gasket as heat and pulses are absorbed Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted April 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 Spoke to a couple of the more specialist suppliers one said he always retorques the manifold after initial run. The other said he believed there was less nickle in the Mk1 manifold mix than the Mk2, neither knew of a better quality alternative for the gasket. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 Not sure it would work, but worth a try. Use two manifold gaskets. Not the best way to go but if there is no other solution at present. After fitting a new manifold I have found if you check the bolts holding the manifolds in place they always require tightening up. This is a standard workshop process as the new gasket compresses with heat and use. The same goes for a new head gasket. So yes check and re-torque, if require, after a few miles. If you don't it will eventually start leaking. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 the gasket does probably fail if its done up too tight something has to give , the mating faces must be allowed to shift around a bit , hence the material used if its secured too firmly could be the grip is wrecking the gasket , so it looks 'blown' when its actually ' walked out' as the manifold will move more than the head Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 Pete, Totally agree the nuts should not be over tight. One thing I forgot was the exhaust should be fixed/supported at the bell housing and diff to stop to much flexing. These fixings are often left off. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 Vitesse - The original factory set-up hard fixes, not flexible, the exhaust pipe to the bell housing, this is to reduce the movement at the exhaust manifold. The fixing at the diff carrier is by using a flexible strap, as is the rear exhaust box fixing. If these gaskets are weak and the bell housing support is missing it may be worth re-instating it. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted April 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 Always had the bellhousing support and used torque wrench for the manifold fixings but never retorqued fixings, intend to give it a try. Regards Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted April 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Did about fifteen miles last night and have just retightened the exhaust manifold nuts and bolts to twenty foot pounds engine cold. Surprised how much they moved, they where less than fifteen foot pounds, now just a waiting game. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Paul, That what I have found in the past. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 (edited) Just looked underneath Vit. Can't see that exhaust front fixed clamp and can't remember it when taking exhaust off . Guess I should make something up. Any reason why not, from folk with more understanding on component stress please?. Thanks, Dave Edited April 11, 2018 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted April 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 If you don't the only firm fixing of the exhaust is the manifold bolts and studs. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Hi Bit of an Anomaly here. Haynes Vittese (p87) do not show a Bellhousing clamp. Though there is a Clip Shown?. The GT6 does however show a full clamp and bracket. The Stanpart catalogue for the 13/60 shows a full clip and bracket?. I seem to remember, (30+ years ago) that my Wife's (1968 2L) Vittese did have a clamp and bracket to the Bellhousing. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Somethings in th e back of the grey matter is recalling the drop bracket/strap was made from a spring steel so it was More tolerant to vibration cracking Or was that on something else ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: Somethings in th e back of the grey matter is recalling the drop bracket/strap was made from a spring steel so it was More tolerant to vibration cracking Or was that on something else ?? Pete Hi Not something that I remember, but it was 30+ years ago!. The one (that was) on my 13/60, appeared to be just mild steel. Now my curiosity is aroused, I can see a session of raking through the "meccano set" ,to check!. (Bu**er!) Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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