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How much does the engine move?


dougbgt6

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I've just fitted my aluminium side panels and radiator cowl. Not too happy with the side panel fit. They run parallel to the engine then turn in to the radiator. The passenger side was 1" short at the radiator mounting, the driver side 1/2" short. I Increased the bend angles which increased the overall lengths. There was some distortion to the passenger side but managed to straighten it out with wooden blocks in the vice. Re-installed and it fouled the suspension turret, got over that by raising the panel on the bulkhead mounting. 

The driver's side fouled the brake pipe, I raise the panel as I'd done on the other side but then I couldn't get the air filter box back on. OK,  bent the brake pipe, put the panel on as low as possible and the air filter box fits. However, there's only 1/4" clearance with the lip on the side panel so, my question is how much does the engine flex on it's mountings? Will the air filter box smack into the side panel? Am I going to have to cut and remake the lip or take it all off and send it back? :angry:

Doug 

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Thanks Colin, mine are black with louvers, so prettier than yours! But if they don't fit, it doesn't matter how pretty they are :lol:

I'll take a picture when the camera's charged up, the gap between your airbox and side panel looks tight, can't even put a finger between mine. If the gap's not enough I'll have to cut back under the airbox.

Doug

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There was a thread on one of the GT6 Facebook groups about the poor fit of some of the louvred side panels - it's a shame if the Club Shop ones have issues. Seem to recall the group leader arranged a run via the chap who sells on eBay seeing as they were the best fit he'd found.

My car has never had them during my ownership and likely to stay that way - their main function seems to be as splash guards and I only occasionally go out in the rain! I know there's a theory about them containing the hot air flow, but not convinced in that front.

Have you got some photos showing the whole installation / fit please, Doug?

Gully

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Yes the brake pipe, I already noticed, it can be re-routed, a whack with the big persuader may suffice, so a minor issue. But Pete confirms my worst suspicions, I'm gonna have to cut a chunk out the panel to accommodate the air filter box.  

I could cut and drop the panel by an inch at the bulkhead end, everything would then be way off horizontal but maybe enough clearance? I could fettle the lower radiator end to regain horizontal but once started no going back! 

Consequence is, passenger side panel will be two inches higher than driver's side, not noticeable from either side but the junctions to the cowl may look odd. Maybe a cut out for the air filter box is for the best. :(

Gully/Mark,

Yes I'm well aware of the great heat dissipation debate and lean ever so slightly to the side panel side. But I bought these purely as bling, they're mat black and have louvers! I am susceptible to bling, I bought a GT6.

 I will put pictures on when all is resolved.

Doug

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As promised, pictures. 

Driver's side panel.

The cut is straighter than it looks, honest! The piece I cut out I've used to brace/strengthen the panel, I may use a piece of something longer at some point and sort out those bolts.

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Driver's side radiator cowl

I drilled two holes in the cowl for the air pipes.

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Driver's side panel.

The airbox in place and an old bit of door rubber (to be replaced later) on the rough edge. The gap looks bigger but is only about 1/2" The brake pipe is still to be moved, but I'm not keen to do it till I've got a spare!

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Passenger side panel

With the fixing bolts in the right holes the panel fouls the threads on top of the suspension, so bottom panel hole into top bulk head bracket hole. I could cut the panel or cut the threads or, leave it as it is now!  Is that Hermetite on the distributor, must be ancient? I never noticed!

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Passenger side panel alternator and cowl.

Despite the existing cut out the  alternator is still very close to the panel, may require further surgery.

I haven't done up the bolts between panel and cowl, they attach to the bracket on the bottom of the radiator, cowl on the front side panel on the back. Neither can fit around the bracket to get them flush together. Also the cowl is hard on the top of the radiator and tightening up will cause distortion.  So I need spacers at the top to prevent twisting and bending.

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A fiddly job and not as easy as it should have been, but I like it!

Doug

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Doug

I don't have the original valance brackets so was able to bend the bracket engineward slightly so that the airbox cleared top without cutting. Only have about a 1/4 inch but seems to be OK.

I used a longer bolt from the radiator cowl and as you can see added nuts as spacers. You'll note I haven't drilled the holes but cable tied the air pipes to the bottom of the cowl. What size hole and what type of holesaw did you use?

Cheers

Adrian

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Adrian,

The hole saw is, I think, 44mm or 1 & 3/4". I got it in B & Q and previously used it to drill holes in my plasterboard ceiling for recessed lighting! The teeth look quite vicious but went through the aluminium with no problem, no distortion or deformation. I drilled a small starter hole first.

The hole saw is like this:

https://www.diy.com/departments/erbauer-bi-metal-holesaw-dia-44mm/1284510_BQ.prd

You also need one of these:

https://www.diy.com/departments/erbauer-sds-arbor-l-150mm-dia-40mm/1285946_BQ.prd

A bit expensive for a couple of holes, but there's always the prospect of recessed lighting!

Doug

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