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Thrust washers / bearings


Dolomitejohn
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Hi All

I have recently purchased a late mk3 gt6. Been off the road since 1999 so lots of remissioning to keep me busy. Also my first separate chassis triumph. Had my dolly sprint for 28 years. 

Hoping to join the Tssc in the new year too. 

I have measured the crank end float and its 9 thou so just out of spec. The engine has done 109000 and there seems to be no rattles, knocks, smoke etc and the oil light goes out during cranking. But I just have this out of spec end float. 

Question. Can the thrust washers be changed with the engine in the car? 

Thanks all. 

John 

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9 thou is pretty good and no cause for panic.  IIRC the build spec is 6 - 8 thou........ and will likely increase during running-in.  I'd just be keeping an eye on that with a check every year or so.  My old Vitesse engine ran at something like 12 thou for many, many miles and never changed.

The thrust washers can, just about, be changed with the engine in the car, the major challenge being getting the sump off, which involves lifting the engine a bit to give clearance to the steering rack and fairly iffy access to some of the more forward bolts.  If you do opt to change them.... you might find this interesting

http://customthrustwashers.com/

Nick

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Put those solid thrust washers in my PI engine and the new Vitesse engine. Fitted them as pairs though the reality is that only the rear one takes any significant load.

Was a few years ago that I bought them now, but then at least the price was very reasonable - except for the unavoidable shipping costs.

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Hi guys. 

Thanks for the advice. The link was very informative. If I replace I will go for the custom washer option. 

I just need to decide if to attempt to remove the sump in situ or remove the engine or leave it... I have no history with the car except its done 180 Miles since 1999.......but can't afford to wreck the engine.  Preferred option would be to change in situ (if it can definitly be done). 

John 

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John,

I've done it in situ, just as Nick says. Undo the engine mounts and jack up the engine, driver's side, then wiggle the sump out. However at 109k miles you don't know what else lies in wait. My own engine needed a re-bore but I didn't know that at the time. In your case I'm with the "wait and see" brigade, these engines are very forgiving and another couple of thou is neither here nor there. My end float was 1/4"  :lol:  The question would be how quickly is it deteriorating. 

If you decide to change the thrusts have a look at the aluminium piece at the bottom front of the engine, a common source of leaks.There are steel replacements and don't overlook it's  two wooden (yes wood!) shims.

Doug 

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yes also done this on car had the sump off a few 6cyl , its a faf to get past the oil pump , best release the rack and push it forwards,for more room ,  then much fiddle and curse and its off.

but at 0.009" its not a worry,   drive it  keep an eye on it , if its getting too bad you can hear the gudonk when you just press the clutch.    ,   

strangely small chassis 6 cyl and T2500 show end float as 0.006-0.008"   but the T2000 is shown as 0.006 - 0.014"

who knows why its the same base engine ????

Pete

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Hello all

              They are made from Aluminium Bronze I can not remember which spec but it looked fine to me and said it was used for bearings etc

Just one on the clutch side would probably do as other side is no load (I suppose the 6 cylinder puts a bit more load on them as the clutch must be stronger)and it does seem as its the 6's that drop them!

Roger

ps this is how I did mine(Spitfire) a bit OTT but I could!

DSC04681.JPG

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

Not just 6cyl  .....   4cyls   do it   ive   welded a couple of bearing caps to replace worn off location lugs

A 1300 fwd  and a 13/60   some time ago  now one lasted another 10,years without a problem

Pete

Hello Pete

                  I should be ok with my OTT ones? at 73 years old!

Roger

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