Front Brake Disk Shields - and Wheel Studs

[Anglefire]

When I replaced the front shocks, I found the one brake disk shield bracket had sheared off - hence the rattle I'd been unable to trace!

The question is, stainless steel or standard - given that standard seem to be almost impossible to find (Except Canley Classics!)

I still have to replace the studs to fit my new wheels - so seems as good a time as any to change them - but what nuts for the standard wheel (The spare basically) - I've got Freelander ones to go on. Though do you need to split the disck from the hub to change them?

[Clive]

Stonehields used to be easy to find used. Stainless may be more brittle, but I doubt that will be an issue. So either those or ditch them altogether (but you still need to replace the brackets with washers of the same thickness) or weld the bracket back on. Ditching the shields helps with brake cooling, and they seem to have little purpose.

Regarding nuts, I have used the same nuts for alloys and steel wheels. Just make sure they hold the wheel tight and don't bottom out. If worried you can easily get a set of open nuts, of have a look on ebay etc for escort (or similar) wheelnuts, but obviously M12 as opposed to the early 7/16 threads.

As to removing the disc, I really cannot remember! Not an onerous task though.

[Anglefire]

Thanks Clive, I'm going to get the stainless ones - and replace all the bolts whilst at it.

As for nuts - I might just get a set of open anyway - can't be that much money!

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Mark

                   I think you can change the front studs with the hub on but the rear are a bit difficult if you leave the studs at their full length 

They foul the back plate with the hub on (do you will not want to take the hubs off)

So you either shorten them a bit so you can just wiggle them in at an angle  or drill a hole in the back plate

I just shortened them just play with one by taking a bit at a time off until you can wiggle it in

That's what I did and still leaves plenty of thread

Roger

Ps just checked and it gives 9 to10 full threads in the nut which will be 13.5 to 15 mm off thread(1.5mm pitch)

I was always told after you pass the diameter of the nut there is not much extra gain

Check the chamfer on the new studs is the same or they will catch the slave cylinders

If the are genuine l/r you should be ok but I have seen some that are thicker heads

L/r ones are usually 12.9 grade I think?

[Pete Lewis]

yes rears can be a fiddle , did ours with the shoes off and a wiggle , pulled them in with spacers and old wheel nut

yes split the disc off, depends on stud maker we used i think were ford   ( long time back ) and the head just pitched on the hub shoulder a quick filed  chamfer where they contact and they pull in nice and square.

this is one of the best modes you can do. you wont shear these 12mm or 7/16" ones like the aged 3/8"originals

its a good job done 

Pete

 

[Andrew]

Club shop,sell,stainless steel covers bought myself some last year look good and easy to keep clean

[Anglefire]

Well. Front stainless stone guards fitted this morning together with splitting the hubs to put the freelander studs in. The one side I did get fully home but the other side when I looked again once fitted seemed to be just everso slightly sticking out further than the second side - but when I did the wheel nuts up (went for 120nm as that seems reasonable given the size of the studs and nuts.) and they pulled up some more as far as I can tell. 

Still got to swap the rear studs - job for another day though as although I didn’t feel that cold, when I came in for lunch I did feel cold to the touch. 

Do like the new wheels though 😁

[Anglefire]

On 31/12/2018 at 10:49, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Mark

                   I think you can change the front studs with the hub on but the rear are a bit difficult if you leave the studs at their full length 

They foul the back plate with the hub on (do you will not want to take the hubs off)

So you either shorten them a bit so you can just wiggle them in at an angle  or drill a hole in the back plate

I just shortened them just play with one by taking a bit at a time off until you can wiggle it in

That's what I did and still leaves plenty of thread

Roger

Ps just checked and it gives 9 to10 full threads in the nut which will be 13.5 to 15 mm off thread(1.5mm pitch)

I was always told after you pass the diameter of the nut there is not much extra gain

Check the chamfer on the new studs is the same or they will catch the slave cylinders

If the are genuine l/r you should be ok but I have seen some that are thicker heads

L/r ones are usually 12.9 grade I think?

Hi Roger,

I drilled the backplate - annoyingly I couldn't get the hole lined up to the stud so had to go in at an angle - but they did go in in the end.

As for the old ones coming out - I was expecting more of a fight - the front seemed pretty tight- but the rear barely needed a tap - one of them almost fell out 🙄 

And I have to get some blind grommets - I thought i had some, but turned out the box I have (From when I rewired the house 25years ago!) are open.