Adrian Posted January 23, 2019 Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 I know I can put this under electrics as it’s a universal problem but this relates to the mini. sometimes when starting I just get the dreaded click. As the engine is almost out it needs attention, so firstly is it a failing in the solenoid or failure in the actual motor. What tests could be done? Is it worth dismantling, cleaning, etc or just get a new one £60-70. any thoughts would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted January 23, 2019 Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 Adrian, First check the earth strap, they can look OK and actually be a dud. Jump lead -ve from battery to starter, this will check the earth. Then add the +ve and this will tell you if the motor's OK or not. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted January 23, 2019 Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 Adrian, It might be as simple as the battery being at the end of it's life. I've swapped a solenoid before now only to discover that the fault lay with a zombie battery. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted January 23, 2019 Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 My daughters 107 does similar. But it just spins - can take 2 or 3 goes to get the pinion to engage. Must take it out when it’s a bit warmer to investigate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 23, 2019 Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 3 hours ago, Waynebaby said: It might be as simple as the battery being at the end of it's life. I've swapped a solenoid before now only to discover that the fault lay with a zombie battery. Whereas I've done the opposite... very slow cranking, fitted a new battery, no change. Then the solenoid finally failed completely. Getting just a click can be several things. If it's a quiet click, it's likely the solenoid but may be poor wiring or loose terminals. If it's a loud click (which my GT6 does occasionally) it could be a sticking bendix, although that more commonly presents as just spinning, or a very stiff engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted January 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 Thanks all I'll check the battery, as its all being stripped i'll check the earth and clean up the solenoid connections. On another matter is there anything that can be done with seized brake pipe joints? especially in the Master Cylinder as the originals are rare. Plusgas soaking in but as its soft copper you cant use much force before rounding off. I have a new set to replace but trying to salvage the main components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted January 23, 2019 Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 Adrian, We're talking about the thing that screws into the master cylinder with the pipe going through it? I don't think it's copper, tougher than that, but they do get rounded off. I had to cut the pipe and take the clutch master cylinder off the car, clamp the joint in the vice and turn the whole thing to make it let go. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted January 23, 2019 Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 1 hour ago, Adrian said: I'll check the battery, as its all being stripped i'll check the earth and clean up the solenoid connections. Adrian, Don't make my mistake, which was to check the battery voltage without it being under an electrical load. Even a sick battery may well show 12V when nothing is being asked of it. Put the headlights on and leave it a few minutes. If the voltage across the terminals after this time is much less than 12V then the battery is due for replacement. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 23, 2019 Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 45 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said: We're talking about the thing that screws into the master cylinder with the pipe going through it? I don't think it's copper, tougher than that, but they do get rounded off. I had to cut the pipe and take the clutch master cylinder off the car, clamp the joint in the vice and turn the whole thing to make it let go. The original pipework on brakes was almost certainly steel, as were the fittings. It often gets replaced with copper or cunifer, in which case the threaded fittings are probably brass. The master cylinder is aluminium alloy. If (when) they seize up due to corrosion (including that caused by contact of electrolytically differing metals) the alloy is the bit most likely to strip if you're too brutal. So take care. On the plus side, the hydraulic seal is made by the pipe flare against the bottom of the drilling, and the fittings are a standard thread (3/8" UNF on older Triumphs, metric on some late ones, could be either on a Mini) so it is, at least theoretically, possible to repair the MC thread with a helicoil. Not sure I'd want to, though, when new MCs are available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 23, 2019 Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 you could try some heat but brake fluid fumes are highly flamable hot air gun ??? not naked flames may work .......coca cola has a good review for unseizing and wont burst into flames if renewing the pipes cut off the old and use a 6 sided socket , less chance of rounding off the nut hex. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted January 23, 2019 Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 You can also get brake pipe spanner’s that are open but have a smaller gap to get it over the pipe but then grip on all faces (or 5 out of 6) of the nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted January 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 Useful thanks. I managed to break some of the joints after cutting the pipe and using a flame so promising so far. Pete, is that Diet Coke or full fat? Based on what I’ve done so far and the fact that I’m replacing the pipes I think Dougs method works best so far. I’ll look out for the spanner though for future jobs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 24, 2019 Report Share Posted January 24, 2019 A proper brake spanner, as Mark described, is a must for when you reassemble. It avoids rounding off the new fittings. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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