AtRo Racing Posted February 2, 2020 Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 To all you people who helped e with the rocker issue, The shims arrived and I installed them onto the head and toured the rocker pedestals down to spec. I then marked al the valve stems with red ink and set the clearance to zero. Using the starter I cranked the engine over about five revolutions and then loosened the rockers and took out the pushrods only to find that the pattern on the valve stems all moved away from the rock shaft. Next I took the rocker shaft off of the engine and skimmed the bottom of the pedestals .050 and reassembled the rocker shaft and the rockers to the pedestals. When I reinstalled the assemble onto the head I doubled up on the Grade 8 washers under the mounting bolts and retorqued the nuts. I then went back after ten minutes and re-torqued each nut again only to find they had loosened. I did this twenty times before they all read correctly after sitting ten minutes between. Painted all the valve stems again, set the clearance at zero, and cranked it over and took the pushrods out again. This time the pattern wad dead on in the center of each valve stem. After reinstalling the pushrods I set the valves at .012 using the “Click Adjust” valve clearance tool which save a ton of time. Next I made a tool to measure the 90 degree angle of the rocker pad to the center of the rocker shaft. The engine started instantly and ran like a scalded cat. I now need to have a set of pushrods made up as some of my stock ones are bent and not strong for the street /compitition head. I can not thank you guys enough for all your help in sorting out this issue. Cheers, Robbie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 2, 2020 Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 Great, so what you found seems to agree with the instructions that came with the rockers and they must have been making contact with the valve heads when in a slightly above horizontal position.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtRo Racing Posted February 2, 2020 Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 Yes it did. Now I need to figure out what length pushrod I need. I have ordered an adjustable pushrod and I am assuming that I measure any valve when it is fully closed. Am I correct that I should back off the rocker adjusting screw and adjust the pushrod until the rocker tip is just touching the valve stem tip or do I measure the pushrod when the rocker has a .012 feeler gauge between the valve stem and the rocker arm pad? Cheers, Robbie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtRo Racing Posted February 14, 2020 Report Share Posted February 14, 2020 The GT6 now runs like a scalded cat thanks to all of you who helped me out with the rocker / pushrod issue. I set the rocker clearance at .012. With the aluminum rocker cover the rockers are now very quite. I was having a clearance problem with the rocker cover mounting studs and nuts hitting the bonnet. I removed the studs and installed three 5/16-24 X 4” Hex Head Cap Bolts which sit much lower. Again, thank you to all of you, Robbie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 14, 2020 Report Share Posted February 14, 2020 Nice looking car 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted February 14, 2020 Report Share Posted February 14, 2020 Very clean! Is the XR3000 worth the money? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtRo Racing Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 7 hours ago, Spitfire6 said: Very clean! Is the XR3000 worth the money? Without a doubt is is much better that the XR700. It is the race version and much more precise with a hotter spark. It is now made and sold by Fast as a kit and is available from Amazon. This kit uses a light emitting diode and a shutter wheel. This produces a hotter spark than the magnetic pickup type as the light diode is rock steady when using a timing light. I installed a relay with fuse in it to turn the ignition on and off. I remove the fuse when I park the car as it will not start unless the fuse is reinstalled.here is the link to the relay. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBAO1SA/?coliid=I1RBGFP0JQTR4W&colid=FO4SAH6JV3H8&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it FAST 3000-0231 XR3000 Points-to-Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Universal 4-6-8 Cylinder Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCDLVG/?coliid=I16QSJAOFJJO1R&colid=HZ467702CT2W&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it It is very important to use the proper coil and resistor for this system to work. I will have to look up the coil when I get home and get back to you. I used a .4 ohm ballast resistor. With the hot coil I am using it is very important to use the proper wires, cap, and rotor. The only wires I will use are Magnacore wires firing NGK Copper Core Spark Plugs spark set at .028. The total timing is 35 DEGREES BTDC with the vacuum advance hose disconnect and plugged. As far as the rotor and cap is concerned I will only use NOS LUCAS as they fit really tight and do not wear out. Make sure that you PHASE TIME the distributor after you have installed the Fast kit and have set the timing. Just take an old distributor cap and drill a large hole just inward of the number 1 terminal. Install this cap and then shine your timing light into the hole.the rotor should line up with the caps number 1 post. If it does not align up all you need to do is move the light emitting diode bracket left or right until everything aligns up. With this system your engine should roar to life instantly! I will get you the coil specs in the morning. Cheers, Robbie AtRo Racing Products Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtRo Racing Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 Yesterday I told you I would look up the coil that I used. I experimented with ten coils, all with different primary resistances. i found that the FAST PS60 Ignition Coils 730-0060 that has a primary resistance of .400 ohms worked the best with the FAST 3000-0231 XR3000 Points-to-Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Universal 4-6-8 Cylinder Engines. You can see it here at: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fst-730-0060?cm_mmc=ppc-google-_-search-_-brands-_-keyword&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2IDA5PfU5wIVu4NaBR0nXQnHEAAYASAAEgL07PD_BwE The spark plug wires are MAGNECOR 6557 / 143-560 8.5MM KV85 CN SERIES IGNITION CABLEs from moss. You can see them here at: https://mossmotors.com/spark-plug-wire-8-5mm I have been running this system for five years with zero breakdowns. If I can be of more help then just email or text me and I will get back to you. Cheers, Robbie On 14/02/2020 at 13:03, Spitfire6 said: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 Hi Robbie. Thanks for the details. I thought the system did not want to be connected via a ballast resistor? What is the liquid coolant level below the rad cap? From the photo, it seems that you would need the cold coolant to be an inch below the top of the radiator & this would leave the top of the thermostat housing dry? Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 17, 2020 Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 12 hours ago, Spitfire6 said: What is the liquid coolant level below the rad cap? From the photo, it seems that you would need the cold coolant to be an inch below the top of the radiator & this would leave the top of the thermostat housing dry? It's a sealed system so as long as the coolant is up to the top and the overflow bottle is half full, then water will flow around all of it including the thermostat housing. Any air will be driven out by the circulating coolant as it expands due to heat then when it cools the coolant is sucked back in. Just keep a good supply in the overflow bottle and make sure the tube is covered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtRo Racing Posted February 17, 2020 Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 23 hours ago, Spitfire6 said: Spitfire 6 ”I thought the system did not want to be connected via a ballast resistor.” You do not need a ballast resister on the ignition system that I designed. BUT YOU MUST RUN A COIL WITH AN INTERNAL PRIMARY RESISTANCE OF .4 OHMS OR YOU WILL BURN UP THE LIGHT EMITTING DIODE AND THE SPARK BOX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 On 17/02/2020 at 18:54, AtRo Racing said: Hi Robbie, The confusion was over you saying: "I used a .4 ohm ballast resistor." So minimum coil resistance of 0.4 Ohm then. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 On 17/02/2020 at 07:50, Colin Lindsay said: It's a sealed system so as long as the coolant is up to the top and the overflow bottle is half full, then water will flow around all of it including the thermostat housing. Any air will be driven out by the circulating coolant as it expands due to heat then when it cools the coolant is sucked back in. Just keep a good supply in the overflow bottle and make sure the tube is covered. Hi Colin, I still cannot fathom how it would work. At best there will always be a gas pocket in the thermostat housing? I would not call it a sealed system as the overflow bottle is not pressurized. It cannot be pressurized as its way too low. I appreciate the cooling system works, I just don't understand how it fails to spew its coolant when very hot. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 It can be called a closed system in that theres not really any coolant loss when compared to ancient evaporative systems. Any air pockets in the circuit are shrunk as the system heats up and pressurises and get pushed round to the top of the radiator. Then if the air bubble isnt too big its expelled to the overflow bottle along with excess coolant because the coolant on heating expands slightly and this easily induces enough pressure to lift the rad cap. When the coolant temperature increase stops (engine up to temperature) the rad cap is closed by its spring and the pressure that this maintains in the system is sufficient to stop the coolant boiling. Later, on cooling, the coolant volume decreases slightly until it produces a small vacuum and opens the inner valve in the rad cap to draw coolant back from the bottle. In this way as long as the bottle has sufficient level the rad and overflow pipe should always be completely full of coolant👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted February 20, 2020 Report Share Posted February 20, 2020 Hi Johny, How do you remove all the air/gas from the system? Even if possible to remove all gas, how would you prevent coolant leaking when the cap removed? Top it up again? OEM system doesn't seem much better regards liquid level. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 20, 2020 Report Share Posted February 20, 2020 As I say any air/gas gets compressed and flushed out. Sometimes in my Vitesse I have problems getting the air out of my interior heater as this is the highest point in the circuit. The solution is to operate the heater valve a few times while driving and this pushes the air through. Once the system is full you can remove the rad cap (when cold) and even though its lower that the heater coolant doesnt come out because no air can get into the system from anywhere else (think of the full bottle turned upside down trick)👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtRo Racing Posted February 21, 2020 Report Share Posted February 21, 2020 On 18/02/2020 at 15:37, Spitfire6 said: Hi Robbie, The confusion was over you saying: "I used a .4 ohm ballast resistor." So minimum coil resistance of 0.4 Ohm then. Cheers, Iain. My mistake. No extra ballast resistor needed. Robbie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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