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GT6 mk 3 rewire


Paul West
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Hi all,

Am rebuilding the car, body off and all structural work now finished but have reached a full stop.

I’ve purchased a new loom from Autosparks and have removed the old one after taking lots of photos of the original connections. I have got so far but as the new colours don’t match the originals in all respects I am reluctant to continue as my electrical knowledge is really limited and don’t want to do anything silly or dangerous so could I ask if anyone would be willing/able to finish the rewire for cash?

I live near Banstead in Surrey (postcode CR5)

All the best (here’s hoping)

Paul

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many thanks

Paul West

 

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Welcome, Paul!

It may not be that Autosparks have used non-standard (!) colour codes in the new loom - the old one will be much faded, so the colours may not correspond well.

In fact Autosparks are probably using  "BRITISH STANDARD COLOUR CODE" - See: https://www.autosparks.co.uk/bscc  but I think they are more or less the same.

Peel back the covering tape from the old loom to find  less faded wires that may correspond.

John

 

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Thanks John, I’ll have a look but have noticed that the new bulb holders don’t match the originals either so not sure which bulbs I should buy, and from where. I’d like green led ones if poss.

I have sought auto electricians online but all work with diagnostics and not old cars.

Rgds

Paul

 

 

 

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The Autosparks loom I got for my Spitfire was all the right colours but, like you say, some of the bulb holders for the instrument lights were of a different type to the originals. I'm pretty sure the original dash bulbs were all screw-fit types but some of the fittings on the new loom are push-in like the rear number plate lamps on later cars. Horrible bulbs with tiny strands of bare wire pretending to be contacts. I can't remember the bulb type code number ATM but LED ones are available.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all, the problem I had was I’d pulled all the wires off the existing spades leaving me with little reference. Have finally completed what I can and am installing the overdrive wiring but am not sure where the white  wire (bullet connector) connects in the ignition? I assume the brown wire (a piggyback) goes on to the existing ignition terminal. Am I right on this and why is there a bullet connector?

rgds

Paul

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There are some good wiring diagrams on-line, just search literally for the one you want and you'll find full colour versions ready for download.

It's been a long time since I had a GT6 but if it's a D-type, as they nearly all are originally, it takes power from a relay on the bulkhead; if a J-type modification it comes from the reversing light system.

I've found this on-line for a 1971 Spitfire, and it shows where the ignition connections are; i'm hoping it's a d-type and therefore the same as yours but can some of the other posters confirm it's the same for the GT6 before you try it?

spit71.jpg.89828ecd4ef11067040333165936b101.jpg

 

 

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Thanks Colin,

I have a bulkhead relay with the brown, white, and the two yellow wires.

The yellows are bullet connected to their relevant wires but am I right in thinking that the brown piggyback wire replaces the existing brown in the ignition switch (and thus connects both)? The confusion I have is although there is a white wire in the ignition switch, the white on the new loom is a bullet connector and not a spade. Is this then not fitted into the ignition switch, and if not, where and to what is it connected?

 

Paul

 

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Paul,

Here are some of the diagrams Colin was referring to.  They're off an American web site www.triumphspitfire.com which includes GT6s. The first is fairly accurate except the fuses, bottom, middle and top are misnamed. There is another diagram for assorted Spitfire ODs.

 

gt6wiring.thumb.PNG.781da7dd170fc3a966e2014f801d7344.PNG

 

OD.thumb.PNG.fccb9a9a81c29f2eaa5e5b273c886bf9.PNG

Doug

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Thanks everyone.

I replaced the bullet (white wire) with a spade and connected to ignition term 3. Term 2 for the brown and put in a 5 amp fuse where instructed but when switched on the relay is buzzing. Is it kaput or have I done something wrong. I suspect it’s me as the reversing lights are now permanently on as well.

Any help gratefully received.

Paul

 

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It does sound like you've probably done something wrong but without more information it's hard to say what. Trace through all your wiring and draw what you've got, then compare that with the correct diagram. Don't try to compare directly - if you've got the proper diagram in front of you while looking at the car you can easily convince yourself it's right. By drawing what's on the car without any hints you should get a more accurate picture.

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Hi all,

Switched on again and relay still buzzing. Engine off, put it into 4th and flicked o/d on. Buzzing stopped but heard no click so not sure if it works or not. Will buy a new relay and try and trace the fault but by the way reversing lights are still on all the time.

 

Rgds

paul

 

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Hi all,

the reversing lights are on even when I pulled off the spades to the unit!

Could it be that the switch is stuck on and registers permanently?

Scratching my head now and beginning to think that I should have renewed the solenoid when the box was out of the car as, if the sol is faulty, looks a bugger to get out now.

Two steps forward, one step back!

Any ideas folks?

Tried the horn and that relay works fine so o/d one may be ok.

Paul

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Is that a fuse holder in the brown wire to the relay? You mentioned, earlier, "a 5 amp fuse where instructed". If that's what you meant then you need to remove it, or at least change it, because the D-type solenoid draws 20A during pull-in.

I'd guess the two yellow wires to the switch at the front of the remote are actually the yellow/black to the gearstick and the yellow/green (actually looks like a yellow/black in the photo) to the relay. If so, the wiring looks right on the coil side.

You said the relay buzzes "when switched on" but I'm not clear exactly what you mean, as you also said it stops when you switch the overdrive in. If you mean with the ignition on but out of gear, could you try unplugging the white wire from the relay. Does that stop the buzz? What about the yellow/black?green one?

Also, please test the solenoid: with everything off, disconnect the yellow/purple from the relay and momentarily connect it to battery positive. Do you hear a clunk?

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Contacted the battery positive with relay yellow/purple and heard a definite click.

I’ve replaced the old relay as the car has been laid up for 30 years and it probably protested but the buzzing had stopped anyway.

I’ll remove the 5amp fuse. It was a recommendation from Triumph experience as a safety feature (US website).

Reversing lights on even when I’ve disconnected the spades (green and green/brown wires)!

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OK, the reversing light wiring is separate from the overdrive by the looks of your pictures. I assume it was the spades in the photo you removed? That little loom may well be connected to the main harness with bullet connectors somewhere near where the loom passes through the bulkhead. Try disconnecting them to see whether that turns the lights off. You may have a short inside the little loom, or even an inappropriate bullet housing.

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Just tried again and new relay buzzes but with 5amp fuse fitted it doesn’t. No click on either.

Took out servo to access relays and just bolted it all back. Aargh.

I’ll work my way back from Rev light switch to find bullets.

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OK, so I need you to confirm what you mean by "with 5 amp fuse fitted. If you mean that you had connected brown directly to the relay and it buzzed but when you put the same fuse back into the circuit it stopped, then that tells us a few things:

- the old relay is probably fine

- when you tried to engage overdrive you probably blew the fuse

- The buzzing requires a supply feed to the C1 pin

Can you please clarify when it buzzes, as I asked earlier, and (having got it buzzing) carry out the tests I asked for.

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Yes, brown wire direct to relay, relay buzzes. Connect brown wire to fuse then relay, no buzz. This is on second stage of key turn. Checked 5 amp fuse and had blown but put in a 25 amp one and relay buzzes.

Pulled white wire off, no buzz. 

Found the bullet connectors on loom for rev lights. Disconnected bullets, lights still on.

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OK, please check whether unplugging the yellow/purple or the yellow/green wires from the relay stops the buzzing.

It would also help if you could describe the buzz a bit better. The causes of a busy bee buzz are quite different from a machine-gun rattle. I'm currently guessing something more rattly?

When did the reversing light problem start? You first mentioned it in the context of the overdrive problem but I'm pretty sure there's no connection between them. When you disconnected the bullets, did you leave the tube bits on the gearbox loom or the main vehicle loom?

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Ignition on, in neutral, a buzz/rattle from relay that makes you want to switch off immediately. Pulled green/purple off, buzz stops. Put back on, pulled green/ yellow wire off, buzz stops.

Noticed rev lights on by chance so couldn’t say when but pulled bullets off with tubes on the gearbox loom.

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