Iain GT6

[Iain]

Hi there I have got a MK3 GT6 and have got the rear shock conversion that makes the car more stable on cornering(* no wheel tucking in) I've risen the body tube by 1/2 inch so I can get the brackets in but have hit a snag. The bolts which are supplied with the kit are a very tight fit through the 2 holes but that seems to be the best way to have them as they need to be a snug fit so they won't move around under general use but the problem I have is that I now have the bracket positioned on the risen bit of the rear chassis and that in it self is a very tight fit ,here comes the problem 1) I can't get the bracket back out but the real problem is that the hole on the chassis turret is much smaller that the shoulder of the bolt I can't get the bracket off  but mainly I can't get the supplied bolt through the chassis has anybody got any idea how to over come this ?

I am at present got some 80 grit emery cloth and am trying to take a small amount of thr shoulder of but give me a break my arms are killing me.

the bolt that goes through the bracket and then goes through the ajdustable shock is not the problem except that the bolt is slightly to long and fouls the inner wheel arch any ideas on that ?

any help wouyld be much appreciated

Iain GT6

[Gary Flinn]

Ian

The top mounting for the Telescopic Damper (Shock Absorber) is a shouldered bolt

The Chassis mounting Bracket kit should come with standard Bolts, spacers, flat washers and Nyloc nuts as per the Photo's courtesy of the Rimmers website

Regards

[Iain]

Hi there Gary, 

this is the same system but got it from the club if you look at the picture you have of the blue bracket the club ones are slightly different as the Rimmer ons show 4 bolts with some sort of sleeve that would go between the bracket/chassis the ones from the club have just the bolt which you show at the bottom.

Maybe the Rimmer bolts are thinner than the club ones as the club ones won't fit through the chassis.

I wonder if Rimmers will sell just the bolts and the sleeves?

it would only be 2 bolts and sleeves I would need if that is the caseas it's the hole in the chassis that is too small.

regards 

Iain

[Paul H]

I fitted the same bracket kit and shockers for my mk2 Vitesse . I’m not familiar with your setup though i had to remove the brackets as I was originally supplied with 2 brackets which were the same and they must be handed to accept the shouldered bolts . I removed mine Using a slide hammer 

Paul 

[Clive]

Iain, have you tried to get a bolt through the chassis without the bracket present?seems odd that the wrong bolt has been supplied. Check by seeing if the nut off the old shock top bolt fits? 

BTW the shock kit won't stop wheels tucking in, but you should have Rotoflex so shouldn't be an issue? The big advantage being it takes the stress off the wheelarch which is why I fitted a conversion 28 years ago. But also the correct rotoflex shocks are NLA, though I believe some beetle shocks are an almost exact match. If you have the late GT6 with swingspring, the advantage is the shocks act more directly being almost vertical. Downside is getting the shock length correct, but I think the club is selling the correct "custom" length type?

[DanMi]

I would phone and speak to the club before adjusting anything. I would suspect that there should be 2 different bolt types, 1 to attach bracket to chassis and on the shock to the bracket.

[NonMember]

2 minutes ago, DanMi said:

 I would suspect that there should be 2 different bolt types, 1 to attach bracket to chassis and on the shock to the bracket.

Not necessarily. The hole in the chassis, to which the bracket attaches, was originally provided for the top of the shock (on a non-Rotoflex car) so the only difference between the bolts is that the one through the chassis may need to be a fraction longer. But the bracket looks to be parallel on the outside with washers to narrow the space for the shock bush, so in reality both bolts pass through the same length of the same two diameters. Ergo, same bolt.

[Gary Flinn]

As DanMi suggests a phone call to the club should resolve it?

Some of the Damper Brackets from alternative suppliers are also slotted on the top (The bracket shown in my photo has an elongated hole for the Body to Chassis mounting bolt) this is so you don't need to completely remove the body mounting to Chassis bolts, you can loosen the bolt and tap the bracket into place?

I can't remember when I fitted mine if all the bolts are the larger shouldered type TBH, I suppose if the bracket is fixing to the the Original Damper mounting on the Chassis then it should be shouldered too? 

 

 

[Gary Flinn]

I've searched my Photo's and found the one below, looks like I used two shouldered bolts per side with my bracket?

[Iain]

Hi there thank you all for your suggestions and I did infact contact the club and got an answer that actually worked,but now I have a different question does anyone know what size spanner I need to change thge bolt on the trunnion area so I can put in the grease nipple to put in the oil required for lubrication as the bolt head seems to be inbetween sizes and I have got quite a selection of spanners but can't find one to fit , it's either to small or to big any ideas as the Manuel does give a size?

many thanks to the previous response and hope to get the same again

iIain GT6 

[NonMember]

Are you talking about a blanking plug for the oil nipple on the front uprights, where you troil your onions? If so I think the last one I saw was 7/16" but it could be a whitworth size. A metric (11mm?) is usually close enough for that.

[Iain]

Hi there yes I think that's the one where you put gear oil 90 in the upright above the trunnions, I'll have ago with the 11mm.

thanks

IainGT6 

[Pete Lewis]

well from memory 11mm  7/16  and 3/16 whit are pretty much all the same 

the plug is LN30041  but its not in my hardware catalogue

pete