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Brake light switch. Poor quality parts


68vitesse

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Out in the Vitesse this afternoon, told by van driver brake light not working, stopped to check all seemed ok. When I got home checked again lights not working, checked switch with meter switch intermittent. Now have Lucas SMB429 fitted which has a metal case as against the all plastic case old one, not my first problem with brake switches, so hopefully more reliable.

Would be easy to fit a tell tale light in my supplementary panel or is that being paranoid?.

Regards

Paul

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11 hours ago, 68vitesse said:

Switch is set so that I can still depress the plunger with the pedal fully up

I'm not sure what you mean by this, but if you can activate the brake lights with the pedal fully up, doesn't this mean undue strain on the switch when you do press the pedal?

I'm skirting round any problems with my early Herald and fitting the hydraulic brake switch directly into the brake lines, as per original.

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15 hours ago, 68vitesse said:

Out in the Vitesse this afternoon, told by van driver brake light not working, stopped to check all seemed ok. When I got home checked again lights not working, checked switch with meter switch intermittent. Now have Lucas SMB429 fitted which has a metal case as against the all plastic case old one, not my first problem with brake switches, so hopefully more reliable.

Would be easy to fit a tell tale light in my supplementary panel or is that being paranoid?.

Regards

Paul

Hi Paul,

this BMW switch fits onto the TR's a treat, is nearly half the price of the plastic ones that fail so quickly AND lasts for ages.

 

Roger

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14 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

 

A tell tail,says the circuit works but wont tell if all bulbs have died.

Pete

Hi Pete,

A 'tell tale' will work if you have some sort of current sensing circuit.

On my TR4A I have the power wire to the brake lights  wound around a normally open reed switch. Reed Switch

The reed switch powers a LED on the dash (one for each light)

This circuit does not rob the lights of precious volts

If you want more info just ask

 

Roger

 

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thats a good idea,  being a dinosaur i get out and check my lights and reflections in the garage door  etc ,

this works without any techy ,  club shop also sell a metal replacement

looking at the number of cars with duff brake , side and headlamps seems most like to drive around in the dark and invite rear ends 

around   here its rife   roads full  of.............. pratts

pete

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9 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I'm not sure what you mean by this, but if you can activate the brake lights with the pedal fully up, doesn't this mean undue strain on the switch when you do press the pedal?

I'm skirting round any problems with my early Herald and fitting the hydraulic brake switch directly into the brake lines, as per original.

Don't understand, switch is contacts closed when plunger fully extended, pedal depressed. If the pedal is fully up and I can depress the plunger all it means is the pedal is not using the switch as a stop.

Don't think Vitesse 2L ever used a hydraulic brake light switch.

Regards

Paul

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43 minutes ago, 68vitesse said:

Don't understand, switch is contacts closed when plunger fully extended, pedal depressed. If the pedal is fully up and I can depress the plunger all it means is the pedal is not using the switch as a stop.

Don't think Vitesse 2L ever used a hydraulic brake light switch.

Regards

Paul

It's the way you've worded it that's throwing me a bit - I would picture it that if the pedal is pushed down, then the switch plunger is also depressed. Extended to me means in the open position ie pedal is at rest and brake lights are off, and the plunger fully extended out of the end of the body. That's why when you said you can depress the plunger with the pedal fully up - as opposed to down when you put your foot on it - I took it to mean that you can activate the switch with the pedal in the rest position and thereby, yes, there would be enormous pressure on the switch when it came to actual braking. It's just the wording - I can picture it now.

And no, the Vitesse never used hydraulic braking, which is why I'm doing it on a Herald....!

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On 13/07/2019 at 18:37, Colin Lindsay said:

I would picture it that if the pedal is pushed down, then the switch plunger is also depressed.

No, they are "normally closed" switches, so the plunger is depressed to open the contacts, by the pedal in its rest position, fully up.

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Hi Rob,

on the TR series, and I would have thought all others, the switch is Normally Closed (NC) when on the shelf.

However the switch is adjusted so that the switch plunger is depressed and thus becomes Open Circuit with the brake pedal not operated.

When you press the pedal the switch plunger is pushed out under spring pressure to move into the Normally Closed position and operate the lights.

 

Roger

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Hi Roger,

I think you are just agreeing with me but your use of "However" feels odd. In electrical or electronic engineering, the terms "normally open" and "normally closed" always denote the switch's behviour "on the shelf", as you put it. What you do mechanically and how you employ it are irrelevant. A normally closed switch that spends most of its life being depressed is still "normally closed" regardless of how long it spends being open.

<massive thread drift>Of course, being open when you're depressed is a good thing, as long as you're in the right environment.

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Light has dawned on marble head. The switch points downward, the contacts are held open by the pedal at rest, and when it is pressed downwards, the plunger moves out and makes contact.

I kept picturing it as a switch that was pressed IN by the pedal moving downwards - no idea why as I've replaced more than a few in my time - therefore Paul's post confused me as a pedal at rest would, in my mind's eye with the backward fitting, be off the plunger completely. 

Make allowances for advancing years and a slowing brain, please....

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