Paul Marshall Posted August 9, 2019 Report Share Posted August 9, 2019 I have just acquired a 1966 Vitesse Mk1 but am having trouble getting the drivers seat fully back. It goes back until the seat touches the side panel, I have however found that if I lift the seat it will go back further. Do I need a set of these ? https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-608759 I must solve this as I am 6ft 4ins and cannot fit in unless I solve this Help appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 9, 2019 Report Share Posted August 9, 2019 these arecommon to a few others like moggie minors etc and yes if you raise the height witha block the backrest will tip forwards and give more rearward slide please look at the seat pivot bolts they must go into opposing holes there are two holes in the frame and seat whilst they can adjust the front height they must also be out of sync, or the seat angle is incorrect and will make the back foul when it should be 'clear'and reduces the tip up angle as well so not the same holes but opposing ones are the correct way ...this will seem odd but its right many get assembled as you would expect, the design is the opposite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 9, 2019 Report Share Posted August 9, 2019 The steering column is adjustable for length which helps, I drive a Mk1 convertible, six foot one trousers have to be 32/33 inside leg and can comfortably drive the car wearing size twelve walking boots. You should be ok particularly if it is a saloon. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marshall Posted August 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2019 Hi all Thanks for the tips. I am a retired accountant more used to figures than spanners but am I understanding correctly that the two holes on the right hand side should be fixed at the top and on the other side on the lower hole. I do have a competent friend that if I can describe things accurately can do the business! As to the adjustment of the steering column, it says in the handbook to refer to your Triumph dealer! I have this knack that whatever car I buy the dealer closes down in Cardiff. This has happened with Ferrari, Bentley, and Maserati. It would appear that Triumph disappeared some time ago, However I did have a 2.5pi from Newport and he dealer there disappeared! My Vitesse is a convertible. So how do I adjust the column height Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 9, 2019 Report Share Posted August 9, 2019 Its the fwd / rearward hole that need to be miss matched not the upsy downsy I would put a club reprint manual on your wish list If you need to lets say adjust the column its simple , Look under the end of the tube , theres a plate across the shaft witha lock nut and grub screw, release these and the shaft will move up or down the column tube will extend move in its clamps if you have 3 shreaded wheat and give it a good wiggle and pull The design is to collapse on an impact so shaft and tube will move with a reasonable effort Re nip the grub screw and lock nut , not gorilla fashion just a firm nip., it has to slide under load in a collision. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marshall Posted August 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2019 Thanks Pete I am away next week but will let my pal loose on it next week when I am back. A bit of wood is not on my radar and I want the car looking immaculate so I will order some blocks and spend a few shillings tarting everything else up! The only other problem I have had is fastening the studs on the tonnau cover which were difficult to press home. Any suggestions please Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 9, 2019 Report Share Posted August 9, 2019 Big mallet !!!! Press studs can fail , tonnau can shrink, plastic poppers are poor . stainless Replacements avail from club shop and a punch is avail. To rivet them . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marshall Posted August 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2019 Hi Just had a look at the seat and enclose a pic. Both bolts are in the top hole and the one on the left appears to be a replacement and from the wear appears to have previously been in the bottom hole. Have I got it right that the left hand bolt should be in the lower hole? Thanks for all your help Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 10, 2019 Report Share Posted August 10, 2019 Even the WSM isnt very clear on this point but guessing from your photos Paul you still havent used the correct holes as the 'different on each side' ones Pete is referring to are in the seat brackets not the floor rail brackets (these have the raise-lower holes which, as you have done, should be the same both sides). My drivers seat was the more worn of the two so I swopped them over and remember it being quite fiddly and counter intuitive to get right afterwards! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 10, 2019 Report Share Posted August 10, 2019 Yes the height hole use the same axis the front rear use mixed one front one rearm so the seat clears the A post when tilted And it lands with the tubes and blocks nicely centred over the slides not off to one side a bit. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted August 10, 2019 Report Share Posted August 10, 2019 Seat Fitting Problems can often be found with seats that have been incorrectly refitted after being removed. There are some minor variations in detail over the models and period of production but I believe the following should apply to all variations. Components and terminology: Seat runners - fitted to the floor, have holes for the adjuster to register in. Subframe - runs on runners, includes adjuster lever on one side only. Has two brackets on the front, each with two holes arranged one ABOVE the other. On one side the bracket is square and straight, and on the other side the holes are set forward, so the bracket is shaped like a B. Seat frame - on which seat is built. Brackets at the front have two holes arranged one BEHIND the other. Fitting: Seat runners should be fitted with holes to the rear, fixed with 5/16" UNF bolts, and with 1/2" spacers (thick washers) under each bolt. Captive nut on turret at the rear is FQ3406 (should be available from the usual suspects). The sub-frames are handed: you should have a pair. They should be fitted so that the adjuster lever and catch is nearest the transmission tunnel. This adjuster should mate with the holes in the seat runner (but won't if the seat runner has been fitted back to front). This ensures that the holes on the bracket on the door side are a smidgen further forward than the transmission tunnel side, i.e. the B shaped bracket is nearest the door. Choose between the high and the low hole on the seat sub-frame. This adjusts rake and/or height (with blocks). Use the foremost hole on the seat frame bracket for the door side (ie the side where the sub-frame holes are further forward) and the rearmost hole on the seat frame bracket on the tunnel side. This means that the seat sits square on the sub-frame. The fact that the pivot point is slightly angled, means that when the seat is tipped forward, the top moves inwards and does not hit the A post/windscreen surround. C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marshall Posted August 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2019 Thanks for all the help. I can now see all the holes. So to get the seat back to the maximum I need the bracket on the subframe fixed the same both sides. Should I use the higher or the lower holes? On the seat frame I should use the foremost hole on the door side and the rearmost hole on the tunnel side. Would it help fitting extender blocks or is this un necessary. I can't actually do this yet as I am suffering from bruised ribs and cannot exert any spanner force! Great forum! My recent history is Bentley and Maserati (I still have a 2017 Quattroporte) but the Vitesse was an itch I had to scratch having lusted after one in the sixties when I couldn't afford one! Thanks again Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 10, 2019 Report Share Posted August 10, 2019 Youre talking to the converted Paul! Sometimes I feel tempted by a GT6 but then come back to the practicality and quirkyness of my Vit. The height holes are your choice as are the rubber block adjusters on the rear of the seat (these also tilt the angle of the seat) but I personally (being moderately proportioned) want to be up higher and as the saloon roof allows it have fitted spacers under the subframe to raise the seat even more (the limiting factor is the standard steering wheel). Thats correct on the fore/aft fitting holes as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 10, 2019 Report Share Posted August 10, 2019 aha !! now were getting somewhere . its good old triumph made something so simple it causes head scratching 50 years on Ha ! Casper Thanks he is better at typing Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 10, 2019 Report Share Posted August 10, 2019 4 hours ago, Casper said: They should be fitted so that the adjuster lever and catch is nearest the transmission tunnel. Interesting!! All of mine, including the GT6 have the adjuster on the OUTSIDE ie closest to the sill. It always seemed to me to be the natural side ie adjusted with the right arm, as there was more room especially with the door open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 10, 2019 Report Share Posted August 10, 2019 You mind you dont fall out with the door open , I was just adjusting my seat ocifer Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted August 10, 2019 Report Share Posted August 10, 2019 Quote All of mine, including the GT6 have the adjuster on the OUTSIDE ie closest to the sill. So is the B shaped bracket nearest the tunnel? If so, the seat can't be fitted correctly, I believe. Quote from Herald 1200 Owners' Repair Manual: "Adjustment. A wide range of seat positions are available Forward or Rearward. Lift the lever on the INNER [my emphasis] side of the seat, move the seat to required position , <etc>. Height and Back-Rest angle. <blah> It will be noted that there are two locations on the seat frame and that the forward hole is utilised on the outer side of the seat frame and the rearward hole on the inner side. This ensures that the rear outer edge of the seat swings inwards as it is tilted forward and enables the door to be closed with the seat raised. <etc> " It' not often I can out-anorak Colin. If all else fails, read the instructions! . . .and for a big man I suggest the lower fitting. Steering wheel not less than 14" diameter, if you are thinking of a smaller wheel. C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 10, 2019 Report Share Posted August 10, 2019 1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said: Interesting!! All of mine, including the GT6 have the adjuster on the OUTSIDE ie closest to the sill. It always seemed to me to be the natural side ie adjusted with the right arm, as there was more room especially with the door open. All pictures I have show adjuster on tunnel side, for those of us in their right mind it is natural to use it with the left hand. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marshall Posted August 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2019 Oh Boy The Joy's of 60's motoring. In my Maserati I have a series of buttons One will move the seat forward or backwards or up and down. Another will alter the rake up and down and another will alter the firmness of the seats. Another button will institute seat warming. On my earlier QP another button would initiate a massage setting! Now I have to get a spanner out to move the seat back and for or up and down. Brilliant. That's what old cars are all about. I remember when we broke down three weekends running with relatively fixable faults my wife said to me "Why are we driving in this crap car when we have perfect car in the garage?" Having fixed the last fault we went off to win car of the show in Highclere! This is the first 60s car I have had since a 1964 Gordon Keeble and I can't wait to start it up and tour and show it. Thanks for all the help so far. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 11, 2019 Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 Just remember when you get the seat fixed the car will dream up another epic, they sit outside and listen you know. But the, smile you as you va va room about is worth it Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 11, 2019 Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 "Height and Back-Rest angle. <blah> It will be noted that there are two locations on the seat frame and that the forward hole is utilised on the outer side of the seat frame and the rearward hole on the inner side. This ensures that the rear outer edge of the seat swings inwards as it is tilted forward and enables the door to be closed with the seat raised. <etc> " Thanks, that makes more sense so its not to do with being able to slide the seat back! Now I see no reason why the sub frame cant be mounted either side of the car (so the slide lever can be either side) without any problem.... And Paul the good thing is that as you knock down these constant hurdles the car throws out you start to feel a great sense of satisfaction and ownership - well that or hatred😵 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted August 11, 2019 Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 Quote Now I see no reason why the sub frame cant be mounted either side of the car (so the slide lever can be either side) without any problem... That's the point. The reason is that they are 'handed' and should be fitted as described, otherwise the direction/position of the seat will not be correct. Quote All pictures I have show adjuster on tunnel side Agreed. Not looked too far but H1200 Owners' Hanadbook shows adjuster tunnel side. C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 11, 2019 Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 You are indeed correct sir! Rather than rely on poor memory Ive been out to look (Mk1 Vit) and sure enough the vertical adjustment brackets on a subframe are different each side so for correct operation of the seats the slide adjuster should be on the inner side in each case. Its the vertical holes that are further forward on the door side of the subframe so allowing the use of different horizontal holes in the seat bracket while maintaining the seat square when down but offset when lifted up. Its designed so you can swop seats over but not subframes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted August 11, 2019 Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 Well done Johny. You have got there in the end. S-T claimed that with F/R, H/L and with or without blocks there are something like 72 different positions possible. This forum can often iron out some obscure topics. C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 11, 2019 Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 And Pauls Maserati just has buttons, how borings that when we've had 2 fun days discussing Triumph's set up😍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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