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Clutch release carrier & bearing


Iain T

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Hi,

I currently have a brass carrier fitted by PO to my Mk2 Vitesse which has some nasty wear depressions in the flanges where the arm fits so not ideal. I assume this is because the brass is not of the correct spec as it needs to be hard. Any thoughts as to replacing it with a steel one from, sharp intake of breath, one of our esteemed spares suppliers. Also my brass one does not have a rolled pin in the flanges to stop it rotating on the actuating arm, is the pin a good idea or just a load of bunkum? While replacing the carrier I might as well change the bearing, from memory it has a radius on the face, again flat or radius and where to get quality bearings.

Any suggestions please

Iain

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Hello Iain,

With some friends, I recently replaced the clutch thrust bearing on my Vitesse - I went for RHP and have to say it is spot-on.

Previously fitted a genuine NOS B&B clutch kit but I think the bearing was past its shelf life; rest of the kit was fine hence going for the RHP item to replace the B&B.

The part number is GRB209G and cost just under £30 via "Shop 4 Autoparts" based in Coventry - they also sell via eBay.

Sorry, cannot offer any helpful advice on the carrier.

Good luck.

Richard.

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the anti rotation pin or dimple is to prevent rotational wear on the front cover making ridges and giving a rough operation most  throwouts are a brass mix material

so if its reclaimable fit a pin so the fork wears in a new place .

throw out bearings should be 19mm thick  many are only 15mm and that upsets the angle of the throwout lever , to correct some of this add a washer under the push in spherical post 

but rhp will be correct thickness .

pete

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Thanks Richard, found the RHP bearing at the site you mentioned. I have been Googling for ages for RHP 34W 1 1/2 (I believe this is the correct bearing) and got a load of rubbish!

Pete, as you suggest I think I'll fit a rolled pin in my brass carrier to stop it rotating.

Last question, I inspected the clutch slave cylinder and the bore looks very badly machined. I have looked on line and everyone seems to sell the same ali rubbish does anyone sell properly made ones? The only reason for asking is there is no feel or bite in my clutch so I'm going though the possible culprits. FYI I have a new   proper B&B cover and virtually new plate.

Thanks as always

Iain

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Hello Iain,

Will be worth giving David Kingerley a call, he deals in genuine NOS Girling and Lockheed etc, along with repro parts; he will offer both options if he has them. Have used him many times and he trades at all the big events, including Stoneleigh a couple of weekends ago.

I know him quite well and a very decent chap plus helpful - 07977.914.088 

https://www.obsoletecarspares.co.uk/

Regards.

Richard.

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if you have no feel  your disk may be thicker  from a coil cover  this looses pedal load and feel 

the coil disc is thicker than a diaphragm disc   you nip the lining in a vice and then measure how thick,   sorry manuals out in the cold  will look later if needed 

there again some terrible things happen to a clutch cover if its been re conditioned ... badly 

pete

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Ive seen the subject of clutch thrust bearings in a few threads recently and why brass was used has been asked. There must have been a good reason and I wonder if it was to facilitate it sliding along the oil seal housing tube.... Anyway as Pete says, using some sort of anti-rotation measure in varying positions should allow them to last almost indefinitely.

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Hi Folks,

not sure if this is relevant.

On the early TR clutches the bearing carrier (BC) was made of Phosphour Bronze and as such is quite hard and will withstand many operations of the normal

clutch fork with round spigots. 

On later TR's (4A onwards) the BE was steel. This was not affected by the round fork spigots.

Recently Brass BC's have been supplied and these do not work well with the round spigot - they quickly dig in and you lose fork travel. These BC's should be used with a slipper pad fork.

On the early BC's there was no anti rotation pin AND the fork was fully withdrawn by the external spring on the slave cylinder.

The later BC's used a self adjusting slave that allowed the BC and bearing to remain in contact (only just)  with the diaphragm fingers.

Plus - the RHP bearing is quite stiff to rotate from cold (fully loaded with grease) . So when operated the RHP bearing and fingers slide against each other causing finger wear.

By allowing the BC to rotate  the spin up of the bearing assembly is quicker so less wear takes place.

 

However allowing a steel on steel part to rotate on each other without lubrication is a recipe for disaster. Thank fully this rotation would be for a very very short time.

 

What would I do !! 

If using a steel BC I would use the 'anti rotation pin' AND the external return spring n the slave

If using the BRONZE BC I would not use the pin but would use the return spring.

DO NOT use the BRASS BC unless you use the slipper pads instead of the round fork spigots.

 

Just my thoughts

Roger

 

 

 

 

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there are some posts on here with ideas to solve the budgie squeal from bearing skidding to either add load or make some free play , ( which needs a back stop adding)

the spring in the slave is there to maintain throw out contact with the fingers .  some bearings are stiff and you get the squeaks ,  

misaligned concentricity of throwout to fingers will also cause noise and finger wear 

pete

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16 hours ago, Iain T said:

Roger, thanks for advice.

What do you mean by slipper pads?

Is there a standard return spring that can be fitted to a Vitesse?

Thanks

Iain

Hi Iain,

these are flat pads rather than the round spigot. 

 I believe the big saloon cars use them.

Chris Witor sell them. 

Not sure if they are a direct fit to any fork.

https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=159003PB

 

Roger

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2 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Iain,

these are flat pads rather than the round spigot. 

 I believe the big saloon cars use them.

Chris Witor sell them. 

Not sure if they are a direct fit to any fork.

https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=159003PB

 

Roger

The Vitesse and GT6 have a different clutch release set-up than the Big Saloon. So this may not apply?

Dave

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42 minutes ago, dave.vitesse said:

The Vitesse and GT6 have a different clutch release set-up than the Big Saloon. So this may not apply?

Dave

Quite so Dave.

They can be made to fit the TR's but haven't a clue of other TRiumphs.

 

Roger

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the basic idea is the pins on the lever operate in an arch, this should follow the centre line of the front cover it slides on, the VIT/GT6 lever angle relies on the height of its spherical post and the thickness of the release bearing , wear and tear on the pins and the throwout/carrier  all affect the smooth operation , if the pin operating arc is below the Centre line then the carrier can pitch and if a sloppy fit is not then concentric with the fingers  and all this leads to lost travel/ reduced leverage / poor pedal loads   and more 

poor design of clutch operation plagued most makes until more modern have a concentric release so operation is  even central and not variable 

Pete

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must agree Pete modern concentric release arrangement is what I'd look at I think Iain is using a type 5 box so it might simplify set up

I know I'm considering the concentric set up of I retain the 1850 Dolly single J type rail box instead of putting the internals into a 3 rail box as it won't require the bastardization of the Vitesse clutch lever and not as much buggerisation of the Vit bell housing it will only need a top hat arrangement for the selector rod.

there are quite a few examples where concentric release set ups have been used in Gt6/Vit clutch's where the lever has been damaged too much & generally there NLA.

Peter T

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If the locating pins are worn and you can't get a replacement arm then the pins can be rotated my 180 degrees to an un-worn part. Not the best of solutions, but bearing in mind the use the cars gets it will keep it on the road. The pins should be tight to start with, but may require re-tightening after rotation. re-rivet.

I agree with Pete and Peter, a lot of energy is lost on the working surfaces due to the design. 

Dave

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Interesting, I like the concentric release arrangement and as Peter says there are a few type 9 off the shelf conversions. The only issue is I have a Triumph bell housing and would need to measure/shim to get the correct clearances. It is definitely a better engineered solution and looks to work with the standard 5/8" master cylinder. I'll have a look on the forum etc to see if anyone has a blow by blow account.

Thanks again 

Iain

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