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Herald 1200 Flywheel TDC


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Hello,  like a plonker when I removed the I made a mark on the flywheel to ensure it was refitted in the correct place, I then proceeded to clean the flywheel and remove my mark.  The flywheel appears to have 2 holes the dowell in the crank can go into.

Would I be correct in assuming no.1 cylinder is timing chain end? and when this piston is TDC with both valves closed the flywheel timing marks should line up?

Thanks, Tom.

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some have a mark on flywheel and back plate , but not sure if just 6 or 4 cyl  quite why when its invisible other than engine out and probably only used on production 

and being large diameter far mor accurate than the pulley ,  ......anyone mde a hole in the  top of clutch hsg.  to use them  ?????


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Yes I'd say just a production thing, I presume the flywheels and cranks were balanced separately?

I wonder why they have 2 dowel locations on the fly wheel.....seems to be a lot of wonder whys at the moment!

I just wanted to put it together how it came apart as the engine was lovely and smooth.

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Took a day off today from the endless grinding and welding of the last week and got back on a couple of mechanical jobs.

Flywheel is back on, I torqued the nuts to the highest value and loctited them with the blue 435.

I also started prepping the engine for it's first start in around 2 yrs, I changed the oil and filter ( morris 20/50 ), gapped and cleaned the points, removed the plugs for a clean and gap but have decided to replace them as they are ancient Unipart plugs and I did start cleaning one  but as I was wire brushing  a piece of the porcelain insulator broke off! and  I set the valve clearances. Any plug recommendations would be great, I find Champion seem to suit my old motorcycles but they don't seem to like NGK?

What I did find was the water pump was very stiff? It freed off after a bit of turning but I'm wondering if any coolant has got the bearings? maybe time for a new one to be safe?

I'll fit the clutch tomorrow, Haynes says to lubricate the spigot bearing with 'zinc oxide grease', obviously I don't have any would just standard LM be fine?

Not going to put the gearbox back just yet as I found a rust hole in the front tub I hadn't noticed and it will be easier to weld it up with the box out. 


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Whichever brand of plug you choose, make sure it's genuine. On another forum, its alleged that cheap branded plugs sold online can turn it to be substandard fakes.

Best to buy a reputable brand from a local motor factor, or order online from one of the major motor factors' websites.


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Well a lot of the info in the 1st artical rings true in the old motorcycle world, I have a 1978 Triumph tiger 750 and a pair of old 350cc CZ's ( Czech ) non of these bikes like NGK. They don't seem to take too well to getting wet ( Neat petrol )  and once they have had a dousing they don't seem to recover. Wetting plugs seems to happen more in carb fed machines as it is obviously less precise compared to fuel injection, in fact both these bikes have to be tickled ( float blow overfilled ) to start.

The two brands of plug that seem to shrug off the wetting are Champion and a Czech make called BRISK in fact the Brisk plugs seem indestructible!!! Brisk used to be PAL. The difference really is night and day NGK's can literally be toast in 500 miles on the CZ'S whereas the Brisks have now been in for 4 or 5 thousand miles with no issue. Also I don't buy anything from random folk on the internet so pretty sure the NGK's were not fakes.

Think I'll stick to Champions.

Anyone any views on using regular LM grease on the spigot bearing rather than Zinc oxide grease?

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the spigot does not need a lot of lube  and the zinc oxide is less affected by heat and centrifugal forces   

LM is probably a bit thin when hot and may spin out onto the facings and coppa slip is anti seize its not a lubricant 

something like 

4200 080 050 SACHS Weight: 80g Grease 4200 080 050 cheap


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