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GT6 Mk3. Oil Pressure Switch.

Bob Shoosmith

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I'm attempting to change the oil pressure switch on my car, something that you would think is a five minute job!!! It appears to be seized solid, and an extra problem is that neither imperial , or metric spanners seem to be an exact fit. Obviously a ring spanner is not possible because of the bulb part. The consequence is that the flats have started to round off making things even more awkward. I have filed the flats down to the next size, but even then it won't budge. The switch is on some kind of extension that also incorporates the sensor for the oil pressure gauge, so would the solution be to try and remove the whole thing so I can get the switch in a vice, or does anybody have any suggestions as to how I can get it out in situ? Thanks.

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  • 1 year later...

Got a similar issue.

Vitesse 2L MK1. Ordered a new oil pressure switch from Canley but the thread seems different to the old one which is removed with the adapter.

Not entirely sure if the new switch is supposed to go straight in the block? as shown for Vitesse 2L MK1 AND GT6 MK1 . in which case how does it seal? It feels like the thread is too loose but may be tapered? the Canley parts diagram doesn't show a washer and the part number is the same for the switch either with or without an adapter (GPS117).  Or does it need to go into the adapter - which creates a new problem as the old switch is well and truly attached to the adapter and the adapter appears to be no longer available (tried Mick Dolphin).


To further confuse me, only the Vitesse 1600 page on the Canley site shows the switch with an adapter but the 2L (MK1 and 2) don't - neither does the GT6.




Any suggestions gratefully received!

(GPS 117 on the top, old setup underneath)


IMG_6742 copy.jpg

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me thinks the block has had a thread repair  the old looks a bigger dia than the new 

unless you have a gauge tee you wont have that adaptor

sorry you need to seperate the two and new switch will fit the adaptor and the adaptor will fit back where it came from

thats why nothing shows on the parts list  as it never was

would have been a plain thread with a tapered switch tha adaptor is straight threaded with a face sealing copper washer 

the block thread has been modified



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In both instances it does require the adapter unit with switch to be the on-the-bench.

If the switch is very tight in the adapter then heat may be more useful than force to extract it. The bad scenario would be to shear the switch with a stub left in the adapter and evidently the adapters are irreplaceable. Heat could be applied by any means (e.g. cigarette lighter, torch) or immerse in hot cooking oil. Doesn't need to be super hot - heating up by 100 degrees C is 1% expansion which can be enough of a difference (for starters at least). 

In the event of the flats on the switch showing early signs of rounding off I'd be inclined to hacksaw off the bulb of the switch so a socket can be applied. In the event of the AF being 'odd' or 'now indeterminate' a wall-drive socket (rather than hex or bi-hex)  has a better chance of getting a purchase.

I can think of other more extreme methods for removing the switch from the adapter but hopefully such won't be required.

P.S. On refitting a new copper washer would be ideal or failing that to anneal the old one.

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 A daft question, if it's still on the car have you tried to unscrew it with the engine hot?Also, very often when something won't unscrew, if you try to tighten it ever so slightly it can crack the bond between the two items. It needs care because, of course, there is a chance that it will shear... you'll get it though, I'm sure.


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I`ll go with Pete on that one. To me the adapter thread looks slightly larger and courser?, enough to suggest a previous need to re-tap the case?. Suggesting a modification, or more likely a broken/stripped thread?.


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