Bob Shoosmith Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 I'm attempting to change the oil pressure switch on my car, something that you would think is a five minute job!!! It appears to be seized solid, and an extra problem is that neither imperial , or metric spanners seem to be an exact fit. Obviously a ring spanner is not possible because of the bulb part. The consequence is that the flats have started to round off making things even more awkward. I have filed the flats down to the next size, but even then it won't budge. The switch is on some kind of extension that also incorporates the sensor for the oil pressure gauge, so would the solution be to try and remove the whole thing so I can get the switch in a vice, or does anybody have any suggestions as to how I can get it out in situ? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 If its on an extension, then I would take that out and either replace both or get the switch out on the bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 there is a good chance the swich is a whitworth/BSF spanner size ..its quite common i would take the whole assy off and you can get the switch in a vice and use grips to undo the adaptor ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRevver Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 Got a similar issue. Vitesse 2L MK1. Ordered a new oil pressure switch from Canley but the thread seems different to the old one which is removed with the adapter. Not entirely sure if the new switch is supposed to go straight in the block? as shown for Vitesse 2L MK1 AND GT6 MK1 . in which case how does it seal? It feels like the thread is too loose but may be tapered? the Canley parts diagram doesn't show a washer and the part number is the same for the switch either with or without an adapter (GPS117). Or does it need to go into the adapter - which creates a new problem as the old switch is well and truly attached to the adapter and the adapter appears to be no longer available (tried Mick Dolphin). To further confuse me, only the Vitesse 1600 page on the Canley site shows the switch with an adapter but the 2L (MK1 and 2) don't - neither does the GT6. https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-vitesse&diagram=triumph-vitesse-1600-engine https://www.canleyclassics.com/?diagram=triumph-vitesse-mki-2-litre-engine-manifolds-and-carburettors Any suggestions gratefully received! (GPS 117 on the top, old setup underneath) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 me thinks the block has had a thread repair the old looks a bigger dia than the new unless you have a gauge tee you wont have that adaptor sorry you need to seperate the two and new switch will fit the adaptor and the adaptor will fit back where it came from thats why nothing shows on the parts list as it never was would have been a plain thread with a tapered switch tha adaptor is straight threaded with a face sealing copper washer the block thread has been modified pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 In both instances it does require the adapter unit with switch to be the on-the-bench. If the switch is very tight in the adapter then heat may be more useful than force to extract it. The bad scenario would be to shear the switch with a stub left in the adapter and evidently the adapters are irreplaceable. Heat could be applied by any means (e.g. cigarette lighter, torch) or immerse in hot cooking oil. Doesn't need to be super hot - heating up by 100 degrees C is 1% expansion which can be enough of a difference (for starters at least). In the event of the flats on the switch showing early signs of rounding off I'd be inclined to hacksaw off the bulb of the switch so a socket can be applied. In the event of the AF being 'odd' or 'now indeterminate' a wall-drive socket (rather than hex or bi-hex) has a better chance of getting a purchase. I can think of other more extreme methods for removing the switch from the adapter but hopefully such won't be required. P.S. On refitting a new copper washer would be ideal or failing that to anneal the old one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRevver Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 Thanks for the info. I thought as much. It's been soaking in plus gas all afternoon. It'll still be there tomorrow and if reluctant to separate, I'll apply some heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 put adaptor in vice cut end off switch and fit a socket to the hex remains Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRevver Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 I'll leave it in the dismantling fluid overnight, if that doesn't work with some heat, I'll get the hacksaw to it as you suggest (before accidentally rounding off the corners with brute force!) Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 I have an early and late 2L Mk1 engine, the early shares a lot of features with the 1600, the early engine has an adaptor for the oil pressure switch the later engine does not. This is not a T piece used to connect a switch and gauge. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRevver Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 Thanks Paul, I did have a theory that the first of the 2L engines had a lot of the 1600 bits from the parts bin - makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekS Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 A daft question, if it's still on the car have you tried to unscrew it with the engine hot?Also, very often when something won't unscrew, if you try to tighten it ever so slightly it can crack the bond between the two items. It needs care because, of course, there is a chance that it will shear... you'll get it though, I'm sure. Derek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Shoosmith Posted August 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 Thanks for all the advice guys, but if you look at my original post it was from over a year ago! I don't know why it's suddenly popped up again. Anyway, problem has been solved and new switch fitted. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekS Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 Oops! Pleased you got sorted though! Derek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRevver Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 It was me that resurrected it today - looking to see if anyone else had solved the same problem I had. Bob should get royalties! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted August 3, 2021 Report Share Posted August 3, 2021 Hi I`ll go with Pete on that one. To me the adapter thread looks slightly larger and courser?, enough to suggest a previous need to re-tap the case?. Suggesting a modification, or more likely a broken/stripped thread?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2021 Report Share Posted August 3, 2021 just looking and ........... https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-vitesse&diagram=triumph-vitesse-1600-engine the 1600 has the adaptor and possibly carried over to early MK1 its the sort of thing that came about from a standardising of the oil switch from a larger threaded early version Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 3, 2021 Report Share Posted August 3, 2021 Early 2L Mk1 HC179E. Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now