hardhatharry Posted April 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2021 Still continuing on the fitting P700 lights to a spitfire. I know it can be done as I have seen a spitty with them fitted. I took the units apart to see the nodules people mentions which stops the sealed units spinning under the beauty ring but these units don't have them. They do have 3 clips on the unit which tie with 3 gaps in the adjuster ring but the units are too shallow for the clips to tie into the adjuster ring gaps. I have seen these clips on the back of old brit sealed units when restoring old triumph bikes and they tie into W clips, would W clips work here? Any other advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 30, 2021 Report Share Posted April 30, 2021 not quite related but many replacement units the 3 location points always have one thats 1/2 slot out of line but its easy to cut trim the holding rim to accept odd spacing Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 30, 2021 Report Share Posted April 30, 2021 They're not seating far enough due to the rubber seal; I'd bin it and see how that improves the fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted April 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2021 51 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: They're not seating far enough due to the rubber seal; I'd bin it and see how that improves the fit. no rubber seal fitted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted May 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2021 At that point trying to make everything fit and inline before paint. Its quite satisfying connecting all the bits back together. I also ordered a different headlight bowl set from Paddocks to see if that sorts out the spinning headlight issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 2, 2021 Report Share Posted May 2, 2021 Is that the inner steel bowl you've ordered? I was just about to suggest that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted May 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2021 41 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: Is that the inner steel bowl you've ordered? I was just about to suggest that! Ordered the whole lot including the inner steel bowl, lets see if I can make something out of both sets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted May 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 Struggling fitting the o/d adaptor plate to the single rail gearbox. There is a dowel type rod that sits in the adaptor plate (marked in the picture) but it seems to be hanging on it and stopping the plate going down even after tapping with a rawhide hammer. I have cleaned up the dowel and its nice and smooth, does it require some force to get it to fit. The bolts that connect the adaptor plate to the gearbox will span the gap and I could slowly use the bolts to pull the plate to the gearbox if required but that feels like a last resort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 3, 2021 Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 The bar sticking out of the main casing is the reverse idler spindle and that hole in the adaptor is its rear support so has to be a good fit. The adaptor should tap down into place and I think its preferable to do it like that than use the bolts which might not pull down evenly - obviously a bit of oil on it will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted May 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 Found out why the adaptor plate would not seat. the reverse idler spindle was not fully home. Unfortunately with all my messing a couple of needle rollers escaped and the spindle is not running as freely as it should. My assumption is the only way of getting the needle rollers back in is to completely remove all the gubbings from the gearbox to get to the idler gear. If I have to do that I might as well replace all the bearings and refurbed the gearbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 10, 2021 Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 not sure if we're getting mixed up here? The reverse idler doesnt have any rollers as it runs directly on the spindle (well it turns slowly and isnt used very much) and the only loose rollers in the box are in the laygear. There are 25 at each end of the layshaft and they are important but everything else has to be removed to get to them. I dont know what youve done on this box but I would certainly want to look at the layshaft and mainshaft tip bearings and more importantly the surfaces they run on. However I would only replace the items that need it because the durability of new replacements is an unknown... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted May 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 Bit of a frustrating day with poly bushes causing issues fitting the swingarms. I had planned to do both sides today but only managed to do most of one. I found that the drop links are dead and the track rod ends the same so they are now ordered. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted May 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 The passenger side hinge box is completely rotted and I have a replacement on order.... While I was poking around I found some holes in the front of the chassis that needs some attention. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 11 hours ago, hardhatharry said: I thought that was some kind of super-duper stainless-steel suspension mod you had on the top wishbone then realised it was only the socket and wrench... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted June 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2021 Finished both sides of the front end suspension last Saturday with Spax shocks, poly bushes, tie rod ends with grease nipples, top ball joints and fancy adjustable droplinks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted June 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2021 Grabbed a couple of hours in the garage tonight. Fitted braided lines from Hel (yes I know about the bracket, waiting for a new one). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted June 2, 2021 Report Share Posted June 2, 2021 Looks good Have you checked the trunnion for wear, you seem to have replaced everything else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted June 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2021 3 hours ago, alan.gilbert_6384 said: Looks good Have you checked the trunnion for wear, you seem to have replaced everything else Got a trunnion rebuild kit sitting in a box waiting to go on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted June 2, 2021 Report Share Posted June 2, 2021 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted June 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2021 Custom hel braided line between master cylinder and servo fitted looks factory to me (anyway I like it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted June 3, 2021 Report Share Posted June 3, 2021 I've just brought a set of Hel branded S/S braided hoses for the daughters Spit Mk2, to replace the 20year old Goodridge S/S ones which aren't Roadworthy compliant here in Aus, the S/S braiding needs to be plastic covered where its swaged at the ends, ADRules are worried about the S/S fatiguing where it flex's at the ends? I need to replace the old ones to get a local Roadworthy to transfer ownership into her name, complicated she was working for VW in Germany when we brought the car so it's all in my name. Interestingly I brought the Hel set locally, well ex Queensland, but only 3 hoses turned up, I queried why only 1 rear hose for a car with Independent rear suspension, answer was some owners only ask for 3 hoses, (Crap) but sir we do a 4 hose set too, I argued with them got the extra hose at cost and no postage costs, and their Customer Dept is reviewing their advertising! Even with the extra cost they were marginally cheaper than buying and shipping ex UK. Mind you the Hel product looks good, the S/S braiding has a plastic sleeving over it's whole length similar to the later Goodridge ones I got for the Vitesse around 8 years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted June 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 A job I had been putting off finally needed to be done. At the start of the build I fitted a new rear inner wing section and not very successfully. I transferred the old threaded bumper iron fittings from the rotted panel to the good but on one side I hadn't drilled the hole anything like big enough and the other side I managed to weld part of the thread. I had probably walked away in disgust at this point as I hadn't drilled the floor for the lower bumper irons either (I must had replaced some of the boot floor too, forgotten that bit). So I stepped drilled the smaller hole into the right size but scratching up the first threads of the fitting then tapped very slowly both fittings and by some miracle it worked. Once I had one bumper iron in it was easy to mark the correct points and drill the holes for the lower ones. after a thoroughly good cleanup, its amazing the amount of crud a boot attracts I did a bit of painting in 2K. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted June 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 On 12/04/2021 at 16:17, hardhatharry said: Little bit of work done on the dash, removing the veneer and making some extra holes. Also the new veneer arrived today Bit of an update ordered some burnishing cream to polish up but the dash now looks like this. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted July 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2021 First startup after over a year unfortunately leaky carbs one pouring out the float bowls the other dripping out of the front of the carbs. Already fitted new jets and seals a year ago, sigh another carb strip down. VID_20210717_153704.mp4 VID_20210717_152923.mp4 VID_20210717_152852.mp4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhatharry Posted August 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 Back from my hols and found some time to investigate the leaky carb issues. Looking at the worse carb I took off the top of the float bowl and took the pin out which holds the float bowl, there is no evidence of the float leaking, the float valve is new and removing the seat revealed no blockages or dirt. I did notice that the gasket has been pinched when fitted so I ordered a new one the the pin is rather dirty so I gave it a clean Putting it all back together I sprayed some brake cleaner into the bowl took a look at the bottom of the float bowl. The feed to the carb was leaking badly and I could pull out the feed pipe from the bottom of the float bowl without any resistance. I noticed that the ferrule had been pushed into the feel pipe and none of the rim was showing outside the pipe. Undoing the nut for the feed pipe showed that the seal had not been compressed, it was at that point the nut escaped hit my foot and disappeared into another dimension as I couldnt find it after an hour of trying, another one ordered. The feed pipe on both carbs also have kinks in them, I dont know if this is an issue It was at this point and noticing how manky the carbs were I decided to stick them in the sonic cleaner for a couple of hours and hey presto like new (ish) So I now need to wait for new gasket sets and jet pipe seal kit to turn up....... Back to welding tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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