68vitesse Posted January 24 Author Report Share Posted January 24 When I did my seats I remade some of the wires with piano wire sourced from a local model shop. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 I take it Paul your exisiting straps were ok as otherwise they would have been difficult to source new? Also was piano wire sufficient as I thought they would be spring steel to take the loading from said straps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 My Memory of "Piano Wire", from the days when I did make Model Aircraft, is that is was a "spring" steel. Used primarliy but not exclusively for Undercarriages. It was a right "bitch" to work with, that I do remember. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 Ah then it would do the job but as you say difficult to work with as it risks snapping😞 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 On 21/01/2024 at 16:07, daverclasper said: Could firm, foam be re-used from a quality, though scruffy sofa, that folk chuck out?. it can be shaped with a chefs electric meat saw, etc I use a kitchen electric carving knife , works well Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 A short length of the aforesaid Piano wire, in the soldering iron would/should work too.? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted January 24 Author Report Share Posted January 24 2 hours ago, johny said: I take it Paul your exisiting straps were ok as otherwise they would have been difficult to source new? Also was piano wire sufficient as I thought they would be spring steel to take the loading from said straps? I shortened the straps, the strap ends were stitched so an easy job or make your own from Pirelli webbing. As said piano wire is springy and if the bends are not to sharp will not crack. Regards Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted January 25 Author Report Share Posted January 25 To be clear the straps l shortened were the convertible ones, the first picture in his post is of the seat I did not fit, after all the work making straps and wire supports, because of the reduced leg room. Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David W Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 On 23/01/2024 at 17:55, johny said: Passenger side never had the height ajustment blocks only driver Ah..... didnt realise. I've gone ahead a ordered for both...... not a major cost in the grand scheme....... Rimmers have agreed to take back the incorrectly (Mk1) delivered parts and are shipping Mk2 replacements as I type...... The (Newton Commercials) instructions supplied recommend dealing with the base first (common to both Marks) and to replace the rubber diaphragm. The replacement was of a slightly different design to the original. I had therefore to drill some extra 3mm holes in the frame to take the steel 'staples' supplied with the diaphragm. These take a bit of force to stretch and a second pair of hands to locate whilst stretching to fit. to be continued........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David W Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 Seat refurb saga continues..... some progress today finishing the seat base...... It was a bit of a pig of a job stretching the base cover over the foam, helped by liberal use of the wife's hairdryer to soften and stretch the fabric and a second pair of hands to press down on the base at the edge whilst the clips were squeezed in with a pair of pliers..... Also attached the back to the frame and straps with glue. Leaving it to dry before wrapping it over the top and attaching at the back..... More to follow soon I hope... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 6 Report Share Posted February 6 use an bin liner or old net curtain over the foam helps the white knuckle ride to get the covers over the foam and use cable ties rather than those awful hog rings cant be seen and far easier to tension up as you go any odd wrinkles can be steamed out with a bit of pipe as a wand in the wallpaper stripper Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David W Posted February 6 Report Share Posted February 6 5 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: use an bin liner or old net curtain over the foam helps the white knuckle ride to get the covers over the foam and use cable ties rather than those awful hog rings cant be seen and far easier to tension up as you go any odd wrinkles can be steamed out with a bit of pipe as a wand in the wallpaper stripper Pete Pete Thanks for the tip....... cable ties? Where exactly would you recommend fitting these.... I am a little unclear........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 6 Report Share Posted February 6 use a tie to replace anywhere a hog ring was removed far easier Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David W Posted February 10 Report Share Posted February 10 Struggling with fitting the seat back cover. Specifically getting the cover down far enough to allow the cover to be clipped to the frame at the bottom. The instructions refer to a calico flap to be pulled down. There are two flaps one attached to the rear cover, one attached to the front cover. Do both need to be pulled down to the rear (the front one through the foam slit)?? I haven't been able to pull the cover down far enough to leave sufficient material to clip to the frame....... Am I doing it right? Are there are tips or tricks I have missed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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