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Captive plate woes


AlanT

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If you completely dismantle the interior then it's fairly accessible. 😛

The bulkhead sides are mostly open behind the trim panel, but the parcel shelf has to be removed before you can get to that. Also, the dashboard, steering column and pedals are all a bit in the way if it's the driver's side you're after.

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Hi. Two or three things to think about.

1) I managed to put a run of weld in the damaged thread hole, drilled and re-tapped the Plate.

2) check if the damaged plate will tap (M10? I think?) and use Metric set screws. you may have to "ease" the door hinge holes a tad?, but worth considering?.

3) A bit more drastic (IMV), Pilot drill, through the existing hole, open the innner A Post enough to get a captive? nut on the back of the plate.?.

Pete

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not done a spitty but have opened up to 3/8unf or M10 with larger holes in the hinge on others .

also when a body was off got the plate out and redrilled three new holes and 

as suggested  a rivenut  all have worked out ok it down to the will and preference syndrome 

on a vitesse  used a hole saw to enable a socket and nut to fit on the back of the stripped plate 

they are very thin torque ia 16/18  lbft any gorilla hands and a bit of ageism on the fittings and yes they strip very easily

Pete

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Hi Pete, Roger. Sorted it! Removed the interior light switch, allowing screwdriver access to bend back tabs. The plate drops out the narrow gap below. Welded nuts onto the plate.

To get it back in I threaded stiff copper wire through the plate holes, then fed the wire back through the A post holes. Pulled into place and tied wires together whilst using screwdriver to bend back tabs. Super pleased as an awkward problem.

Thanks for your help.

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