Mathew Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 Changing the old plastic line for a braided one. Only one problem, supplied wrong joiner for the clutch slave. not what you want to find out! watch this space, fingers crossed local factors can sort otherwise i will make a short link pipe. ,  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 guess the std slave is a normal 3/8unf threaded unions with 1/2" AF hex  but  some repro are 10mm metric AF and heck knows what thread size ............ or worse Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 31 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: guess the std slave is a normal 3/8unf threaded unions with 1/2" AF hex  but  some repro are 10mm metric AF and heck knows what thread size ............ or worse Pete The standard hose fitted! Luckily there is a good hydraulic firm in Downham that supplied the hopefully right one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 i used a similar braided flex on the Vit6 but the 2000 still has the red plastic which reminds me on trucks when this was used ,all beit with higher clutch line pressures the red stuff would balloon a bit when hot which lost throwout travel , enter aero style linear race cables which only flex/ bend in one plane and that caused another problem in routing it flat Pete   Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 Where did your braided pipe come from? I bought/fitted one last year and didn't have any issues with the connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 8 minutes ago, Mjit said: Where did your braided pipe come from? I bought/fitted one last year and didn't have any issues with the connectors. Chris witter. Sorted now with a washer against the slave cylinder. Bit of a blead. Gear selection better but needs a firm hand. With clutch pedal pressed down there is no creep and i can select any gear. I might be me used to rx8 gearbox in spitfire. Its ok for now but next stage when i remove the gearbox i will replace the clutch and check over the release mechanism. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 whilst this is aimed at TR the parts are all the same family heres buckeyes notes on clutches its worth a read if you need a dowel bolt rimmers sell a supposed HD version https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/clutch Pete  1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 Thanks pete, looks very detailed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 54 minutes ago, Mathew said: Chris witter. Sorted now with a washer against the slave cylinder. Bit of a blead. Gear selection better but needs a firm hand. With clutch pedal pressed down there is no creep and i can select any gear. I might be me used to rx8 gearbox in spitfire. Its ok for now but next stage when i remove the gearbox i will replace the clutch and check over the release mechanism. Same place I got mine. Guess it's one of those "What slave cylinder do you have fitted, 50 years after the car was nailed together in Coventry". Gear selection sounds about right for the big Triumph 'box - especially when compared to a Mazda one (and the RX8 gearchange is anything like as nice as the MX5 one). I find it to be...unwilling from cold but OK once there's a but of warmth in the oil. It's never what you'd call 'keen' though, much more a gentleman who walks, never runs than a heal/toe hooligan grabbing gears in the blink of an eye.  Oh and on the release arms I've yet to have one with a broken bolt...until I tried to remove it, at which point every single one has sheared 😒. Thankfully every single one has also been on a comically warn shaft, so out comes the angle grinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 11 minutes ago, Mjit said: Same place I got mine. Guess it's one of those "What slave cylinder do you have fitted, 50 years after the car was nailed together in Coventry". Gear selection sounds about right for the big Triumph 'box - especially when compared to a Mazda one (and the RX8 gearchange is anything like as nice as the MX5 one). I find it to be...unwilling from cold but OK once there's a but of warmth in the oil. It's never what you'd call 'keen' though, much more a gentleman who walks, never runs than a heal/toe hooligan grabbing gears in the blink of an eye.  Oh and on the release arms I've yet to have one with a broken bolt...until I tried to remove it, at which point every single one has sheared 😒. Thankfully every single one has also been on a comically warn shaft, so out comes the angle grinder. If they had supplied the same connector that went into the master cylinder it would have fitted. The fitting was ok for the hose but too small for the slave . The original pipe fitted fine! Just gone back to the car and no leaks. Glad to hear this is normal gear selection! Been ten years since my mk1 so hard to remember. The rx8 gearbox is silky smooth and you can change really quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 if youre sure the thing is fully bled you could raise the slave rod up a hole on the lever the lever should be   >----/  if its >----\ the pins failed  so it travels from 7 oclock to 5oclock  Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said: if youre sure the thing is fully bled you could raise the slave rod up a hole on the lever the lever should be   >----/  if its >----\ the pins failed  so it travels from 7 oclock to 5oclock  Pete Its more like the first >---/. Got the mrs to be the pump monkey. No bubbles left but its a small container for the fluid for the master cylinder. Meaning we had to stop to top up a few times before it got too low  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 thats all ok then Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 4 hours ago, Mathew said: Thanks pete, looks very detailed Local member Pete (BFG) has just done his TR clutch, and snapped cross pin. Lots of pictures and photos. And a shopping list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted March 25, 2021 Report Share Posted March 25, 2021 17 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: the lever should be   >----/  if its >----\ the pins failed  so it travels from 7 oclock to 5oclock You also need to check the slave cylinder position and be prepared to get a bit creative these days it seems. On mine with a new cylinder just fitted "correctly" everything connected up OK...but with the slave piston basically at the end of the cylinder - which was never going to work. Think I've ended up with longer bolts and the cylinder padded rear-wards with 2 or 3 plain nuts. Puts the piston a reasonable way back down the boar so it actually has somewhere to go when you press the clutch pedal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted March 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2021 1 hour ago, Mjit said: You also need to check the slave cylinder position and be prepared to get a bit creative these days it seems. On mine with a new cylinder just fitted "correctly" everything connected up OK...but with the slave piston basically at the end of the cylinder - which was never going to work. Think I've ended up with longer bolts and the cylinder padded rear-wards with 2 or 3 plain nuts. Puts the piston a reasonable way back down the boar so it actually has somewhere to go when you press the clutch pedal! Will have to have a little play next week as back to work tonight, finish monday morning. Have MOT booked for Tuesday morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted March 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2021 Ok couple, well three questions. 1. Gearbox gear change a bit notchey cold but smooth warm? 2. Gear leaver a bit flappy but does not turn, ie loose feel? 3. On the Mot today i got to walk under to have a good look. The mount bar is bolted on in four places to the bodywork. Someone has put 3 washers between the mount and body on each bolt/stud. Looks like to lower the back of the gearbox, why? Hopefully someone can enlighten me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 have they added washers as the studs became thread bound  seen these overtightend and the stud and its top bridge strap pull the floor down inside should   just be the 4 bushes one washer under the support nut remove the console base its only clipped in place then a quick push and turn the cap and the gearsticks in your hands there is a spring anti sizzle button wich may have failed there is 2 designs of pivot pins one you adjust one is fixed Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted March 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 On 31/03/2021 at 08:43, Pete Lewis said: have they added washers as the studs became thread bound  seen these overtightend and the stud and its top bridge strap pull the floor down inside should   just be the 4 bushes one washer under the support nut remove the console base its only clipped in place then a quick push and turn the cap and the gearsticks in your hands there is a spring anti sizzle button wich may have failed there is 2 designs of pivot pins one you adjust one is fixed Pete Looked at the gearstick, nothing wrong! Its the gearbox thats a bit notchy. I will lift up the car tomorrow and change the gearbox oil and top up the diff. The washers are on the body side! Lowering the gearbox, as you say if threads are worn a few extra washers will put the nut in a good place but i would not place them there! At some point i will change the clutch, any recommendations or ones to avoid. I am gathering up the bits now. No rush as it does work, does not creap but as stated can be notchy to engage gear. Found these wires while looking at the gear leaver. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 the olny things down there are overdrive switch in the gear knob and a heated rear window switch blues and greens mixed seems a adhoc add on from a previous incarnation Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted April 1, 2021 Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 On 30/03/2021 at 22:29, Mathew said: Ok couple, well three questions. 1. Gearbox gear change a bit notchey cold but smooth warm? 2. Gear leaver a bit flappy but does not turn, ie loose feel? 3. On the Mot today i got to walk under to have a good look. The mount bar is bolted on in four places to the bodywork. Someone has put 3 washers between the mount and body on each bolt/stud. Looks like to lower the back of the gearbox, why? Hopefully someone can enlighten me. In my experience, yes. Check you still have anti-rattle 'button' and spring fitted. Mine was missing and fitting one made a lot of difference. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID008679 - 112424 and 137988 As for the wires - what's the car's commission number? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted April 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 1 hour ago, Mjit said: In my experience, yes. Check you still have anti-rattle 'button' and spring fitted. Mine was missing and fitting one made a lot of difference. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID008679 - 112424 and 137988 As for the wires - what's the car's commission number? Thankyou, literally at rimmers now 12.49 and they have added to order. Lucky as its taken two hours to get here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted April 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 Not that happy with the supplied clutch, im sure its ok but not the make i expected . Borg and beck , at 119 pounds i could have got it 30 pounds cheaper elsewhere and not an ap one as the site suggested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 1, 2021 Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 B&B should be ok but price annoying - supplier doesnt do price match do they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB Posted April 1, 2021 Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 I worked at Automotive Products in Leamington for 6 months prior to university. Borg and Beck was part of Automotive Products. That was many years ago; the way trade names have been sold on, for example Rolls Royce and Bentley, who knows who the current owners are and whether they are still the same company. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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