Pete Lewis Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 yes we are interested in how you would start her up , with no flywheel its asking for trouble and no back plate no starter good idea but really ...Nooo .have faith in what you are repairing it works . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisbladen Posted May 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 Rope round the crank and pull like hell, like an old mower 🤣 No i jest. In theory it would be nice to check before i reassemble it all but as you say il have to just have faith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 you could ,.............pressurise the cooling with a bike pump and pressure the oil gallery with 60psi from a air compressor but why the worry Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 I can see why Chris as its a lot of work to find theres still a problem! However if you closely inspect everything (block core plug hole, crank seal surface and new components), maintain good cleanliness and take your time with the reassembly Id put the chances of success as very good. Its the way just about every engine rebuild is done.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisbladen Posted May 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 Just been and checked and all bone dry today around that core plug. Dyed it off at 5pm last night so nothing after 17 hours. Could be that its just leaking when it gets warm? Is it worth changing anyway as a precaution do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 well the rusty build up has probably come from there , its unlikely but might have been from an outside source if you had antifreeze in the cooling that would give a blue stain the fact its very rusty may be its exterior like ...there is the drain from the heater plenum ??? where is that running to?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 Why dont you try pressurising the system and leaving over night as recommended Chris? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 always keep the rad cap on so any excess pressure is lost or you just blow the plugs out again add pressure with a small /like bike pump via the block drain plug/tap but all pretty pointless really Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisbladen Posted May 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 8 hours ago, johny said: Why dont you try pressurising the system and leaving over night as recommended Chris? Yes i will do, i cant see on my cap the pressure rating though as its quite scuffed. Any ideas what is should be at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 It can only be 7 or 13psi and yours being a later car should be the latter. One thing my method of using the radiator overflow to connect to the pump is convenient but means that the radiator cap cant lift and you could over pressurise the system. Also if youve exceeded the cap pressure when you remove the pump connection the cap will vent the excess immediately.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisbladen Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 Thanks will try it over night Next problem to add to the list that iv found, 🤦♂️ when replacing the sump is that the 2 bolts in the front sealing block are just spinning and not tightening, must have been overtightened previously. Is there any reason why i cant tap these to 3/8"? Or is it just recommendable to buy a new sealing plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 you can tap to 3/8 no problem or even metric. A new sealing block is not too expensive but does mean taking the front engine plate off, so that is a definite engine out front pulley off timing cover off and chain off. then to be honest might as well check the bearings for wear and then where do you stop? If you have the sump off you could use a helicoil insert which would leave the thread the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 you can also try M8 being a coarser thread can make a fix without drilling if you go to 3/8 x24 the tapping drill is normally 8,3mm check the stripped is often down to too longer set screws and the bolt had bottomed very common, apart from gorilla ingress Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 1 hour ago, DanMi said: you can tap to 3/8 no problem or even metric. A new sealing block is not too expensive but does mean taking the front engine plate off If it's held in by three(?) bolts through the front engine plate can it not be removed with the sump off, by just undoing those three bolts and letting it drop out? Never did one that way but was just wondering... I can't think off-hand of what else holds it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisbladen Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 10 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: If it's held in by three(?) bolts through the front engine plate can it not be removed with the sump off, by just undoing those three bolts and letting it drop out? Never did one that way but was just wondering... I can't think off-hand of what else holds it in place. I think it is just held in through the front timing cover and front plate and then the wooden wedges, so it should just drop down with the sump off as you say. I would still rather retap in situ as its an easier fix. Thanks pete il try an M8 first but if not then i have a 3/8 tap so that will be my next port of call Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 The seal block does come out but may be stuck to the gasket of the front plate which if damaged complicates things a bit😵 It is easiest to just re-tap in situ so I did mine Metric because its a courser thread than UNF and theres more availability. It had to be M10 as the stripped hole can be almost 8mm diameter and then I used allen socket cap head screws as only this type will fit perfectly in the channel of the sump. I did this without even removing the sump but of course if it is being removed that then allows its two holes to be opened up slightly... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisbladen Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 I did think that the hole may already be to big for an m8 tap to do anything. Il see how i get on tommorow, im sure iv got a few 3/8 UNF bolts lying about so il tap it to that if needs be Reassuring to know that i can do it in situ though, be glad to get the thing back together lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 Make sure then that the head of the bolt you use will fit ok in the sump channel AND you can get a socket on it to do it up.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisbladen Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 1 minute ago, johny said: Make sure then that the head of the bolt you use will fit ok in the sump channel AND you can get a socket on it to do it up.... Will do bud. Bet it was tight in the sump channel with the m10s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 As I say for M10 (and 3/8UNF?) the only way is with allen socket cap head screws... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisbladen Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 Oh yeh sorry missed that bit about the allen socket Can just about get a socket in there for a 3/8 bolt so should be good even if the m8 route doesnt work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 The 3/8 UNF is still 24 TPI same as 5/16 which I feel is a bit fine for aluminium while the M10 is 17 so less likely to strip.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisbladen Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 All done, tapped to 3/8 bsw, all good. Just filled the oil back up so can check in the morning. If its all good then il reassemble the rest with new clutch plate and see how we go Thanks for the advice guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 Excellent, that looks a good thread choice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 and only a hand nip ,and a short bolt think i used 3/6unf on mine way back does need the sump hole opening easy with care on car if sump has to come off on a 4 cyl its easy if you want a challenge try it on a 6 pot Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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