Clive Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 17 minutes ago, AlanT said: Impact wrench bought. Brilliant! Four presses of the trigger and it’s off. Wish I’d bought one years ago. Would have saved all manner of bust tools, skinned knuckles! Car didn’t budge even an inch (but I had it well secured) Excellent news. They are probably a better idea than battery ones for occasional use. Yes, being corded is a mild inconvenience, made up for with price and the fact there are no batteries to fail. Well done 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 I only used mine for the first time recently (got it in an air tools set when I bought my compressor). It really was a revelation though! I would’ve probably have been stumped by the nut in question without it too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted February 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 Yes, the corded type felt like the right way to go. I hate throwing tools because batteries are gone/can’t replace so tend to go for corded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted February 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2022 Well it’s stripped down and I think the problem is actually of my own making! I stripped the bottom end of the engine whilst it was out to check the bearings and replace the shells. The leak appears to be from the front main bearing block that sits at the front of the sump. Does anyone know if it’s possible to remove this with the engine in situ? Looks like it may be possible. I really don’t want to take the engine out again! Appreciate advice. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 19, 2022 Report Share Posted February 19, 2022 Yes that block is held on by bolts through the front plate and two flat screws up from underneath. It will drop off if the sump is removed but you'll find that the gasket behind the front plate is usually stuck to it, and will tear, so you'll need to seal it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted February 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2022 Colin, you’re spot on. I’d reassembled without adding sealant! Teach me not to read the manual (aside from torque settings). The leak is more of a flow than drip when there’s no seal. All off but need to get new sump gasket. thanks Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted February 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2022 The book suggests replacing these rubber end blocks but can’t see that they are available so will just surface with sealant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted February 19, 2022 Report Share Posted February 19, 2022 Aren’t they wood? If I’ve got the right part 36234 here then they are also available from Canleys at least! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted February 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2022 Josef, you’re right. I’d assumed they are rubber. Thanks for the pointer. I’ll order new when I get the gasket. Happily I’ve already got the timing chains seal + gasket so the unexpected fix gives me chance to swap in new anyway. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 20, 2022 Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 Yep they're wood to allow for expansion / movement whilst still sealing. Gently hammer into place and remove the excess if any. You think the old ones are fine, until you run the engine and the leaks start again... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted March 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2022 Oil leaks solved! It was the wooden wedges that had gone. Who would believe it that wood works so well as a seal! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 7, 2022 Report Share Posted March 7, 2022 and a warning there are a variety of setscrew lengths holding the sump some a bit longer thann others apart from overtightening and stripping the alloy block many fail due to fitting long bolts into the block these bottom out and gorilla tighening strips the block lesson do not mix and match what bolt goes where !!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 7, 2022 Report Share Posted March 7, 2022 I think - will check and confirm - that there are four long bolts at the rear of the block but all others are shorter / same length all the way round; I know that's the case with Heralds. Edit: Canleys are showing 16 of 5/16 x 5/8 on both the 1300 and the 1500, all round, so seemingly all the same length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 7, 2022 Report Share Posted March 7, 2022 used to have slightly longer bolts when a reiforcing strip is fitted/welded to the sump flange ???in a few places Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted March 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2022 Thanks, yes I put them back in the right place. The engine is running leak free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted March 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2022 I’ve decided to rebuild the carbs. They, plus the starter motor and diff, are the only remaining mechanical parts on the whole car since I started! I’d previously cleaned them out in the hope of putting off more work…but the bearings are seized and I don’t like the seeping from the old jets. New bearings, non waxstat jets, new needle valves, replace a float pot that has a sheared screw, fix a choke control lever that detaches itself, more cleaning, new gaskets. Aside from the heat shield, should 1500 Spits have rubber carb spacers? None on mine. Onwards! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted March 9, 2022 Report Share Posted March 9, 2022 20 minutes ago, AlanT said: should 1500 Spits have rubber carb spacers? No, I don't think so. I've not seen them on any 1500, whether Spitfire or Dolomite. The rubber spacers were fitted on 1850, TR7 and Sprint, the asbestos ones on Stromberg-equipped 2L engines. No spacers on 1500 AFAIK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted March 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2022 Thanks. That’s one less thing to fix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted March 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2022 Whilst I wait for seat covers to arrive I’m sorting snagging (like the tired carbs). The starter gets stuck/is slow. A tap fixes it. Is it easy to change the brushes? Has anyone experience of trying this? Thanks Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 13, 2022 Report Share Posted March 13, 2022 most of the bendix starters can have the brushes replaced without too much problem. it may be failed field windings that makes them act like a flat battery and sluggish do check your main engine earths Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted March 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2022 Pete, you may be right. It is slow. Perhaps best to change it. The car had done 115k before being parked for 20, damp, years so it’s had a hard life. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 13, 2022 Report Share Posted March 13, 2022 its worth a look see before you jump into the wallet geared/hi torque units make easy work of flinging the engine over but are costly but very good Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted March 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2022 Just had a look on EBay and Dave at Spitfire Graveyard had one for £22. Bought it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 13, 2022 Report Share Posted March 13, 2022 hope its a good one , cheaper than messing about with the unknown wash the bendix with petrol never oil them Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted March 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2022 Good advice. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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