daverclasper Posted May 28, 2021 Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 Hi. A bit back I replaced the engine mounts. Did one side at a time, though in hindsight, it would have maybe made sense to loosen both sides?. Anyway, after fitting the first one, I was jacking up the engine with a scissor jack under the sump to do the second, with a flat piece of wood to spread load. I had to go a bit higher on this side to get the mount to line up and the jack felt more strained. There was a cracking noise and the engine dropped a bit. I assumed the wood had split, but no. Thought, "S>>>, what was that. Jacked up again and fitted the mount. Anyway, now a bit of an oil leak, showing on the floor, mainly towards the rear of engine. Not had chance to jack up and investigate, though wondering what area it be coming from?. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted May 28, 2021 Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 Obvious answer, given the history, is cracked sump! Sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 28, 2021 Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 It could also be that the sump flange has distorted from the load, or sump bolt(s) have pulled out, most likely from the alloy rear crank oil seal housing, its threads aren't strong and won't take much abuse. Unfortunately, the obvious next step must be to remove the sump and check what's actually bent/stripped/damaged. Sorry not to offer a happier prognosis. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 28, 2021 Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 or time for a clean up and a dust of talc or baby power or french chalk whatever the dust will show a trace where the oil is coming from smells nice too Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 Thanks. I assume it's ok to use the car for the time bieng?, and keep an eye on the leak getting worse. Moral to this. Don't start some jobs, if your rushing and getting stressed. I had to pick my grandaughter up in the car, later in the day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted May 29, 2021 Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 Not if you value your driveway, other people's safety, the environment in general, oh., and your engine's health. Starting will increase the crankcase pressure and increase the oil leak if it's from there or if it's from the oil system itself, causing either a slow or rapid complete oil loss. Sort it out, Dave! JOhn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 29, 2021 Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 Yes you need to know is it a flange face /or a split splits chemimetal or JB weld could work if you need a weld but cant Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 29, 2021 Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 Its a strange one as who hasnt raised or supported the engine on the sump? It'll be interesting to see whats happened - if the load was too localised it should be pretty obvious but if not then it could be quite worrying! Certainly if repaired with epoxy the sump can never be used as a jacking point again but maybe thats not a bad thing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 (edited) Thanks. Been under car and cleaned a lot of old gunge (oil filter changes, previous rocker cover leaks,ect). Sump and flang to block pretty clean now. No obvious?, distortion of flange with sump in situ. No sheared bolts (inc the two rear) No obvious?, crack/distortion of sump All the sump bolts took a bit of light hand torque (apart from one I couldn't get to). Now to see if I can find any talc. I did notice the rocker cover had collected a bit of oil at the rear, that also could have run down rear of engine. Will give car a run tom, as guess if leaking from top area, will show up as the oil sloshes in the sump. Edited May 29, 2021 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 29, 2021 Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 18 hours ago, daverclasper said: Anyway, after fitting the first one, I was jacking up the engine with a scissor jack under the sump to do the second, with a flat piece of wood to spread load. I had to go a bit higher on this side to get the mount to line up and the jack felt more strained. There was a cracking noise and the engine dropped a bit. I assumed the wood had split, but no. Thought, "S>>>, what was that. Have you checked your engine earth strap? Not the first time that I've jacked or lifted an engine and forgotten that bit... but it shears under sufficient pressure. It won't explain the engine dropping or an oil leak, or might not if you're jacking under the sump, but it's one place to look at for resistance to lifting; the other is the bellhousing against the bulkhead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 Thanks. Earth strap was ok I think it was maybe the other mount causing the resistance. I can't remember, maybe I slackened it off a bit, though not enough?. As the jack was getting resistance, I remember thinking, this maybe not good, but carried on, as felt under pressure to have the car running asap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 29, 2021 Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 Its tough if your classic is needed for regular use cos we all know Murphys law says: when it doesnt matter it'll run perfectly and the reverse.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 29, 2021 Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 did you take the bracket and mount off the engine in which case you only need to support not a lift pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 The old mounts were sagging and sump almost touching the rack. To fit the new mounts, the engine needed raising. That was my understanding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 30, 2021 Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 ok but next time use a decent bit of timber , bit of sawn down joist etc many have raised steadied off the sump without problems just if you try to swap a mounnt without removing the bracket then youre into a serious raise thats not needed as you then have to clear the Vee and turret flanges etc Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 (edited) Cheers Guys for your help. Well, since the clean off and a 20 run yesterday, no drips showing on the floor, though no time to jack up and inspect properly. So, doesn't seem anything drastic happening?, maybe just a bit of good old fashioned Triumph chassis rust prevention in the longer term. Edited May 31, 2021 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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