Flemming Jensen Posted December 14, 2021 Report Share Posted December 14, 2021 Hello Over night the off side door was hard to open and close. Before that I noticed that the striker on the door frame was weared, meaning that the door has started to sag, starting last year. Over winter the car has been on jack stands. I suspect the chassis off side front outrigger to have been bended upwards. Any comments nost wellcome. Thanks. regards, Flemming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DVD3500 Posted December 14, 2021 Report Share Posted December 14, 2021 My Spitfire had the same problem back in the day and it was the the outrigger under the floor and the frame itself. The car sagged and pinched the door making it hard to open. It took me a long time to figure it out because it opened fine from outside the car but if you sat in it it was hard... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Flinn Posted December 14, 2021 Report Share Posted December 14, 2021 Hard to Open and close doors seems quite a common problem with the Herald/Vitesse range I've attached the Standard Triumph notes for Body Adjustments which may help It may be worth checking you've not snapped a door hinge pin (Can you move the door up and down when open?) Also check the condition of the Chassis and the body mounting points on the front bulkhead, these can both corrode and the mountings can collapse! I spent an age trying to get the doors to align and shut smoothly when rebuilding my Vitesse, I fitted new Door Hinges, used good condition (Unworn) door strikers and Latches and also made sure the Anti-burst Catches (Convertible only) were well lubricated and unseized. The front Bulkhead can be tilted by placing suitable spacer washers under the rear Front Bulkhead mounting to give more clearance and adjustment, but you may also need to adjust the Quarter lights and Door glasses too However if you any serious corrosion to the Front, middle or side Outriggers or the Bulkhead Mounting points this will need rectifying first Gary Herald, Vitesse Body - Svc Trg Notes.pdf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 14, 2021 Report Share Posted December 14, 2021 i would drop it on its wheels if it changes the condition then its time to examine the chassis for what is sagging pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 14, 2021 Report Share Posted December 14, 2021 Could you put a jack under the suspected area and jack up; if the doors become easier to open and close then that's the problem area. 3 hours ago, DVD3500 said: It took me a long time to figure it out because it opened fine from outside the car but if you sat in it it was hard... In my current Estate there's no roof fitted and if I stand in the tub to work on the interior you can see the seat belt points move up and down against the centre tunnel area. Once the roof is fitted I hope the extra rigidity will hold things in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon J 1250 Posted December 14, 2021 Report Share Posted December 14, 2021 Would only really advise putting stands under main chassis rails front and back, or if you're very careful, back ones under rear vertical links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flemming Jensen Posted January 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 Hello Guys Thank you for thoughts and advises. Cheers, Flemming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flemming Jensen Posted April 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 Hello all. I'm not sure if I expressed myself clearly. The door fits the doorway allright. It is the hinges that either binds or the two are misaligned. I find the latter hard to believe given the distance between them. i suspect the hinges themselves. I do have a spare set. is it possible to fit them one by one supporting the door properly, do you think. Without the door getting misaligned. regards, Flemming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 On 14/12/2021 at 16:22, Jon J 1250 said: Would only really advise putting stands under main chassis rails front and back, Would that include front/rear crossmembers as ok?, if jacking centrally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 Other than a “quick up and down” in order to do a wheel change. My opinion is that jacking/standing on any of the outriggers is asking for issues. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 no reason why you cant change one hinge at a time in fact thats pretty normal if unsure about adjustments draw around the outline to set the replacement in the same place use the screw to hold and allows some movement before you tighten the bolts do not gorilla the fixings its easy to strip the cage plates Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon J 1250 Posted April 4, 2022 Report Share Posted April 4, 2022 On 02/04/2022 at 18:03, daverclasper said: Would that include front/rear crossmembers as ok?, if jacking centrally. Front crossmember is fine yes, the rear crossmember is also plenty strong enough. just need to careful as is angled at the bottom so not ideal for a stand from a safety point of view imho. JJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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