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Should I go down this route...

This is a single rail, overdrive gearbox in my 1500 Spit...

I bought the plastic cup and circlip for the bottom of the gearlever hoping it would be an easy job to replace it...

Haha.  I can't quite get at the circlip to enable me to remove the old plastic cup, so, I have taken the top cover off the top of the remote (tight squeeze) in the hope of releasing the selector fork on the end of the rail that the gearlever moves, thus sliding the whole rail out backwards...

It's a very tight squeeze and can't quite see what's what - the selector fork is held on the rail by what looks like a square headed bolt.

I've stopped at this point as I don't want to do something that ends up me taking the whole gearbox out...  Tempted to put the whole thing back together and live with a sloppy gear lever.

Anyone?  Is there a way of getting the plastic cup out simply??

P

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Hi Pete,

 the square headed screw is in fact a taperlock screw and holds the fork tight on the rail.  

Quite often these shear off when attempting removal - aarrgghhh.

 

Haven't a clue about the original question.

 

Roger

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agree these  dowel bolts get really tight  i would if you must use a brake adjust spanner or a upside down 1/4drive socket with a ratchet shoved in a suitable sized af

 

the square head will round of if you just use a spanner 

i thought the plastic bush just lifts out ..    maybe not but i dont recall the detail

if you still wish to remove the bolt  tie some wire round it so you dont drop it inside 

will have to read up on single rail levers   in the morning 

Pete

ok looked on canley  on line  yes i see your circlip  but it shows a roll pin not a dowel bolt ?????     

 

image.thumb.png.7434d3310fa634ccb83942991bf4db24.png

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Thanks for the comments.

I really am confused… the pic from Canley Pete shows has a different shaped top plate to mine and the circlip appears to be above the plastic cup..?

mine seems to be below and I can’t shift the housing that holds the cup enough to get at the clip…

I’ll take a couple of pics and pop them up on the site.

Beginning to wonder if I should be allowed to handle spanners…<sigh>

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Thanks Colin!

Ok - here are four pics.

Pic 1 shows the top plate (as I mentioned - a different shape to the Canley diagram - and it IS an overdrive)

Pic 2 shows the new cup and circlip

Pic 3 is a pic of the end of the remote (single rail)  showing the existing plastic cup embedded in the metal seat.

Pic 4 shows a shot underneath the plastic cup.

Now, (if you're still reading...!!) I can't get enough access to the plastic cup as it won't slide back any further. I assumed I would have to remove the circlip from the bottom of the existing cup to lever it out, but looking at it, it seems the circlip is not visible, so does this mean I literally use brute force to lever the old one out, fit the circlip BEFORE I put the new cup on, and tap the whole lot home?

Or am I just mad.

gearbox.jpg

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there is an inherant problem with tech artists an parts manuals is they do show the breakdown of parts but so very often in the wrong order

so the top hat bush is fitted through the remote and the circlip goes underside to hold it in place 

i suppose  hacksaw through the old to remove its how you fit the circlip onto the new bush thats the faf job 

Pete

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1 hour ago, petegardner_901 said:

Now, (if you're still reading...!!) I can't get enough access to the plastic cup as it won't slide back any further. I assumed I would have to remove the circlip from the bottom of the existing cup to lever it out, but looking at it, it seems the circlip is not visible, so does this mean I literally use brute force to lever the old one out, fit the circlip BEFORE I put the new cup on, and tap the whole lot home?

Put the gearlever back in and use it as a lever to hold the cup as far back as it will go; then hopefully you'll be able to prise the circlip off. The other method is to destroy the old cup - chisel or grind the lip off it so it will drop out the bottom, but take care and don't damage anything else.

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I shall have a go tomorrow… only worry is if I destroy the old getting it out I am past the point of no return…!
 

I am thinking then that from what you’ve said the lip on the plastic cup stops it dropping down and the circlip stops it pulling up.

therefore, if I grind/saw/ cut/bite the lip off the old one it should push down and out.

THEN, I might be able to fit the circlip first to the new one and tap it down - although I suppose the idea is the circlip is slightly too big to fit the hole at the top.

so as Pete said, then I have a faff fitting the circlip. 
wondering if it actually NEEDS. a circlip - could the cup move upwards during normal use without it??

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50 minutes ago, petegardner_901 said:

Ha!  Is that possible or are you jesting…??

🤪

in the world of bodgerooney anything is possible    

with modern adhesives i would hazard a guess it would work  but the glue needs to be made prior to friendly so it actually glues 

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Well……

For those of you still interested (!) the final saga in all this….

I discovered there was NO circlip on the old cup, so it could simply be levered out upwards…

Turns out it is shorter than the new on (see pic - new one on left with circlip attached )  so it was pretty simple to tap the new one down and clip the circlip on underneath  - crimped it together nice and tight with mole grips - and now the gear-lever feels beautiful.

So nice when you get a tricky job out the way.   Many thanks for the responses - it’s good to know you’re out there!!!

1526A353-6634-4444-B9FA-261DBED52C07.jpeg

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Ah I wonder now if theres some gearboxes where the circlip does go on top of the bush as shown in Petes Canley drawing. That would explain why the original bush was shorter as its designed to fit in a housing with a machined slot for the circlip so doesnt need to have its own slot...

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