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Push rod lengths


Iain T

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29 minutes ago, KevinR said:

Any performance engine builder should know where to get them from in the UK.

Kevin, I have spoken to the engine builder and he can as you say get bespoke rods. Everything is almost off the shelf in the USA! 

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A quick fag packet calc and assuming the rocker/pushrod ratio is 1:1.4 and the arm is horizontal when fully up I think reducing the rod length by 3.3mm should suffice and then arc correctly. Perhaps slightly shorter as the tappet screws are nearly fully unwound. 

Iain 

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Rimmer's 1600cc Vitesse rods are 20.5 cm (8.07"). As KevinR states, there are perfomance versions. There are adjustable versions for Rover V8, but should not be used with steel rockers. They may be heavier too. Ultimate performance gurus always go for the lightest wrt reciprocating parts.

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According to Chris Witor head chart I should have 8" pushrods which are the shortest of the 2 and 2.5 litre engines. I'm hoping some dimwit in the past has used 8.125" pushrods as a new set of 8" would solve the problem. Other that it's 7.875" bespoke rods to solve a problem that probably isn't much of an issue! 

Iain 

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Good luck Iain. Let me know what you find. My tatty Vitesse has a 1975 2500TC engine. I am not tempted to tune it as the torque will destroy the transmission. It has  late GT6 3 rail gearbox and a Spitfire 3.63:1 diff. Roadworthy now but needs final carb tuning but the exhaust has a 'Pea shooter' as standard Mk1. That is restricting breathing above half throttle. At least i won't be stressing the transmission YET. Loads to do without looking for it.

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A fun couple of hours going nowhere! 

I cheated and used a 1mm diameter s/steel rod and poked it in the follower to measure the pushrod length. I know its not totally accurate but it seems I probably do have the correct 8" rods. So feeling lucky and wanting to fit the shiny ali cover I used a spare cork gasket to give more clearance for the rocker screws. I tentatively turned the engine over, no grinding or scraping. Started the engine and got up to running temperature, still all good. So I then tested bonnet clearance (should have done this first) with a bit of Blutack stuck on the front of the cover. Nuffin doin, it fouls! To have even a chance of fitting I would have to, as many have, machine off the front fins and use the thin gasket. 

So I did the next best thing put the old cover back on and had a large cuppa and several biscuits🍪

I wish I'd never started and just had the old cover repainted! 

Bottle of Merlot next🍷

Cheers

Iain 

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have thought about raising the front bonnet pivot links  to increase the clearance  ??

i  had no problems on my vit6 with ally cover but only one neoprene gasket  

also had the head skimmed but never messed with the pedestals height  that being a 1600 same as Mk1 heights 

but had a mk2 re hashed rocker set ( dont ask )  

Pete

 

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6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

have thought about raising the front bonnet pivot links  to increase the clearance  ??

Thanks Pete it's on my list of possibilities, I might have more later but still on my first glass🤪

How easy or difficult is it to play with the bonnet pivot? 

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it needs the overider removing and the bonnet hangs on twin links witha slotted hole 

these are often upside down but theres a good 1" of upsy downsy 

this will change the taper to the door and other gaps so there can be a bit of extra fiddling involved 

Pete

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I knew Uncle Pete will have done all of this before. I would do a nice paint job on the original cover, or find a plated one. It won't rust from the inside. Playing with the bonnet may uncover seized or missing bolts, I have given up with mine as it keeps sagging and the valance appears to rotate. The bonnet is scraping the centre alloy bumper. However, yor car looks smart so maybe not as much wrong as with mine.

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Ta I like this solution and take a look tomorrow. 

Wagger plan B is sell the new cover and paint the old one. My lovely wife thinks it's all funny and a total waste of time......Where's the bottle

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34 minutes ago, Iain T said:

Ta I like this solution and take a look tomorrow. 

Wagger plan B is sell the new cover and paint the old one. My lovely wife thinks it's all funny and a total waste of time......Where's the bottle

My lovely wife knows that I am a nutter! Luckily, she paints wonderful pictures then overpaints and chucks them. We understand one another perfectly.

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the front links have one hole and one slot on mine contrary to what many expect they were on mine upside down  the parts list shows slot at top &  pivot on the single hole 

wsm shows them slot at bottom     now all that helps any sense here is if the pivot has a crush tube arrangement then it doesnt matter much but if like my 64 Vit 

no crush tube to pivot on just a fixed solid bush you cant clamp the pivot bolt on a slotted hole or you wont tilt the bonnet if you leave it loose to pivot then it drops down the slot  hence slot goes to the dumb irons and the pivot to the single hole then its all held for ever 

so it all depends on the pivot bush design on your car 

Pete

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32 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

the front links have one hole and one slot on mine contrary to what many expect they were on mine upside down  the parts list shows slot at top &  pivot on the single hole 

wsm shows them slot at bottom     now all that helps any sense here is if the pivot has a crush tube arrangement then it doesnt matter much but if like my 64 Vit 

no crush tube to pivot on just a fixed solid bush you cant clamp the pivot bolt on a slotted hole or you wont tilt the bonnet if you leave it loose to pivot then it drops down the slot  hence slot goes to the dumb irons and the pivot to the single hole then its all held for ever 

so it all depends on the pivot bush design on your car 

Pete

That should help Colin fit his bonnet. See the restoration thread. Leaving mine alone with 3/8 to half inch gaps. The doors don't clip the bonnet that way.

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3 minutes ago, Wagger said:

That should help Colin fit his bonnet

I'm Iain, Colin has I presume a NI accent! 

I did fit the bonnet and at the time thought it odd that there wasn't a spacer tube and just nipped up on the bolt with washers. I was pushed for time as I was fitting it at where I used to work and they wanted to kick me out. I bet it's dropped and could solve or at least help with clearance. I don't mind machining off the front fins to get it to fit. 

I'll take a look later today. 

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Just now, Iain T said:

I'm Iain, Colin has I presume a NI accent! 

I did fit the bonnet and at the time thought it odd that there wasn't a spacer tube and just nipped up on the bolt with washers. I was pushed for time as I was fitting it at where I used to work and they wanted to kick me out. I bet it's dropped and could solve or at least help with clearance. I don't mind machining off the front fins to get it to fit. 

I'll take a look later today. 

Sorry Iain. It is Colin Lindsay on a restoration thread about bonnet fitting that I was referring to. What with age, thread drift and trying to remember where I saw things eh? I spend hours trying to find stuff only having to repeat it anyway.

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I know what you mean, after retirement I lost all sense of time and date. I love thread drift especially when, as it often is, humorous! 

A photo of my rockers, you can see the tappet screws are nearly fully up and without the pedestal shims it runs out of adjustment. As I said the rockers arc from say 9 o'clock to 7 when they should theoretically be 10 to 8 ie equally from the horizontal. At valve open, say 7 o'clock, the screws are so high they sometimes even touch the pressed steel cover. Correcting the rocker geometry would solve the cover problem. 

IMG_20220507_162230.jpg

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1 hour ago, Iain T said:

I'm Iain, Colin has I presume a NI accent! 

I knew my ears were burning - a sure sign that someone is talking about me!

Yes, an Ulster accent with a touch of Fermanagh, but also the same bonnet-alignment problem that Lloyd / Wagger was referring to and which often gets the brunt of said accent in various colourful terms. My bonnet support tube has been damaged on the passenger side so nothing would line up; it's now been replaced and all is currently being repainted awaiting refitting and fingers crossed it'll gap properly, especially if I use Pete's theory of slot to top and single hole to bonnet tube.

 

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

no crush tube to pivot on just a fixed solid bush you cant clamp the pivot bolt on a slotted hole or you wont tilt the bonnet if you leave it loose to pivot then it drops down the slot

God you're good! The bonnet pivot doesn't have a spacer tube and is bolted though the slot hole and as you suspected it's dropped to the bottom. Looks like I could increase the height by about 20mm. As to door gaps it would make one side better and the other, currently even, worse. Life ain't purfick, especially on Triumph body and glass fits! 

I'll take a look on the Canley site to see the correct arrangement. 

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Maybe the Crush tube is my problem. I ain't looking right now. Good weather, so sould get out in it. As for your adjusters Iain, they could be shaved by quite a lot. However, investigate shorter rods first, That is less work.

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shows slot at the top 

tubes between the pair of links is one for the pivot ...???? thats if the boss would  take one 

MkII Bonnet Assembly : Canley Classics

6 minutes ago, Iain T said:

God you're good! The bonnet pivot doesn't have a spacer tube and is bolted though the slot hole and as you suspected it's dropped to the bottom

 

dont know about that not been to church for a long time only go to funerals now 

Pete

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18 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Yes, an Ulster accent with a touch of Fermanagh, but also the same bonnet-alignment problem that Lloyd / Wagger was referring to and which often gets the brunt of said accent in various colourful terms

All at a typical Ulster 1000 words per minute?!?! 

Sorting out our cars is like a good crime book lots of twists and turns, many red herrings, and with a bite at the end! 

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24 minutes ago, Iain T said:

The bonnet pivot doesn't have a spacer tube and is bolted though the slot hole and as you suspected it's dropped to the bottom.

Theres's a bush through the bonnet tube, not a crush tube though, but mine had a tendency to fall out on assembly until I swapped tubes. The overrider bracket also has a spacer tube but at least mine stays in place. However: the two are different widths and so as you tighten the brackets they bend inwards and actually shorten. The ideal solution is to fit a longer tube but then the bonnet slides from side to side. There's always summat!

21 minutes ago, Iain T said:

All at a typical Ulster 1000 words per minute?!?! 

Possibly; but as we're mostly the same accent or dialect over here it sounds ok to me. It's only the tourists who talk funny... :)

I seem to type in the same way, though: this is how it looks before I edit: b ut at leas tmine stayesi n place. That's a cheap keyboard for you...

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