Push rod lengths

[Iain T]

Should it not be a spacer tube through the bonnet pivot then bolted to the overider bracket with shim washers to take up any side movement? 

That way I could use the slot where it's currently fixed. 

[Wagger]

Also Iain, how much clearance between the steering rack and the rib in your sump? Could take engine shims out if they are fitted. I rotated mine a tad to drop the front SU carb on the 2500 engine. The sump tapers both ways on mine because itis a 2500. Yours will have to be precisely in line with the rack. You could achieve 2mm extra there.

That's easier than playing with bonnets in my experience. Took me a whole day to remove overiders, stripped nuts, bolts and replace it all.

Funny how a pushrod post drifted to bonnets etc. It could get worse now. Wait for it!

[Pete Lewis]

spacer tube or not    all  depends on the diameter of the hole in the tubes boss

mine was a solid bush with a think a 3/8 " hole for a bolt   no bush had ever and could not be fitted 

this was on a 64 vit6 

so should you have a crush tube  ' was the bolt a rattling good fit ????in a big hole

 

if you can use a spacer tube for the boss  to pivot on then yes a washer each side would clamp up ok on the slot 

 

 

[Iain T]

I'll take a look but from memory there are some shims. Dropping the engine, if possible, has other implications for me as with the Phoenix 6-3-1 manifold it fouls the steering column. I had to put a small dimple in one of the pipes and move the rack over to get enough clearance or it would have hit the column. 

[Pete Lewis]

1 hour ago, Iain T said:

6-3-1 manifold it fouls the steering column.

thats pretty common 

its all a bit tight 

Pete

[Pete Lewis]

if the tappet screws are the fouling problem why not shorten them and  add a slot for twiddling 

Pete

[Iain T]

I probably will if raising the bonnet doesn't work. As I really want to use the thin gasket. 

[Wagger]

Yup, we all agree on that, but the only way of correcting the angle of the rocker arms is to fit shorter pushrods and screw the adjusters down further. Their peak height will not alter unless the pushrods are shorter, so they will still need shortening with the existing pushrods. I believe that the real culprit here is the higher lift camshaft combined with removing 40 thou from the head.

I prefer long lift cams over high lift ones. Less likely to break springs and increase pressure on the camshaft bearings. Lesson learned from my motor bike days. I could switch engines in two hours on those. No problem in comparison with a car engine. It was still a 'Faff'.

[Iain T]

It's only a mild tune cam nothing outrageous. It ticks over quite nicely. 

As to the bonnet I'm going to cheat and slacken off the pivot bolt, pull the bonnet up as far as it will go on the slot and put a washered bolt underneath to stop it sliding back down. A bodge but it should show what clearance I have with the pressed cover so I can then determine if the ali will fit. 

[PeteH]

Just had a look an the 13/60. This is the current arangement on that.:-

And the bonnet" gap" line.

(and all the Motorhome "tat" stored on top, pending it`s being relocated back, following the latest "expedition" in wire tracing !!🙃)

Pete

 

Pete.

[Wagger]

2 minutes ago, PeteH said:

Just had a look an the 13/60. This is the current arangement on that.:-

And the Line "gap" line.

(and all the Motorhome "tat" stored on top, pending it`s being relocated back, following the latest "expedition" in wire tracing !!🙃)

Pete

 

Pete.

Thanks for those. I can see why mine will not stay put now. Tired old bits!

[PeteH]

11 minutes ago, Wagger said:

Tired old bits!

That sounds like my knees?.😁. Spent more time on them (working) than our Vicar does.

Pete

[Iain T]

So apart from the bolt there's nothing to stop the slotted bracket from rotating? Seems a bit 'unengineered'. Getting the wife to help me adjust the bonnet...this could end up badly! 

[Wagger]

3 minutes ago, PeteH said:

That sounds like my knees?.😁. Spent more time on them (working) than our Vicar does.

Pete

I've known good and bad vicars. The worst one 'Preyed' on his parishioners, not on his knees.

[Wagger]

2 minutes ago, Iain T said:

So apart from the bolt there's nothing to stop the slotted bracket from rotating? Seems a bit 'unengineered'. Getting the wife to help me adjust the bonnet...this could end up badly! 

Can't resit this, apologies in advance. Your wife will end up on top if my experience is correct.

My good lady always knows where to find me, under a 55 year old (relic).

[PeteH]

1 minute ago, Wagger said:

I've known good and bad vicars. The worst one 'Preyed' on his parishioners, not on his knees.

We had one, who was known, to us "choirboys" as being (shall we say) "Suspect".

Pete

[Iain T]

51 minutes ago, Wagger said:

Can't resit this, apologies in advance. Your wife will end up on top if my experience is correct.

Bloomin thing won't move a great deal, even unscrewing the tie rod. However the small movement gave massive bonnet to door gap. I need to take the overriders off take a good look and ponder the best way forward. 

I can still hear her voice as my wife walked away saying 'going nowhere again aren't you. I thought this was a 5 minute job and I've been standing here for 30 minutes plus you've got blood on your jeans, I've just washed those". 

Yes dear....... 

[Iain T]

Our vicar had a Vitesse. The only time I regularly went to church was as a teenager to learn bell ringing. At 16 I had the hots and a lot of lust for the head ringers daughter. Unfortunately it was not reciprocated! 

[Pete Lewis]

28 minutes ago, Iain T said:

had the hots and a lot of lust for the head ringers daughter.

Ding Dong  as leslie philips   would have said 

Pete

[Iain T]

11 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

Ding Dong  as leslie philips   would have said 

Or in a different role "left hand down a bit". That was the trouble I didn't get a bit! However I surprisingly enjoyed the bell ringing. 

[Iain T]

Looking at PeteH's photos perhaps redesigned plates would work. An L shaped plates allowing the bonnet to move up vertically and not forward to keep the door/bonnet gaps? 

I'll take a closer look tomorrow. 

Iain 

[Wagger]

This did have a positive result for me. I discovered that the front tube is solidly attached to the chassis. I thought it was parting company. However, the whole valance will rotate +/- 5 degree each way. Something is missing? If I get the bonnet to clear the bumper, the wheels scrape on the valance when I steer.

Overiders off then soon and lets see where the disconnects are.

[PeteH]

My thinking has returned to the "Bonnet hinge tube assembly" (12   612479). And the problems Colin has/had with his 13/60.?.

On that one I theorised that the curve of the tube had been effectively "squashed" and this had reduced the height of the bonnet front, using the Bonnet attaching link via the slot to effect adjustment then emphasises any error elswhere.

The tube assembly could easily be deformed in my view, by (say) someone having sat on the bonnet, in it`s past?.

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

10 hours ago, Wagger said:

However, the whole valance will rotate +/- 5 degree each way. Something is missing? If I get the bonnet to clear the bumper, the wheels scrape on the valance when I steer.

Overiders off then soon and lets see where the disconnects are.

This is something I have noticed - a lot - recently; there are some cars with a beautifully low gap across the front bonnet - see photo

Yet: if I was to align my bonnet and have it so low at the front, it would hit the overriders when opened. The bonnet pivot therefore has to have the correct gap to look right, but also the correct angle of pivot to go up and over. I'll be refitting mine later today or certainly tomorrow and will see what difference the replaced bonnet tube makes.

The valence however just attaches to the brackets, which will bend but not rotate, and the lower edge is attached with brackets to the front chassis legs. It would have to be very far to the rear to touch the wheels.

 

[Iain T]

Another horizontal thought last night, I need to check the feature stop and chrome trim line to see if it's straight or angling. There's no point pfaffin about raising my bonnet when this feature doesn't line up. My door gap to rear quarters are ok. As sort of are door to bonnet, the bonnet could go rearward 2-3mm which would exacerbate clearance to the rocker cover. 

I wonder if my engine is too far forward. I have a smaller gap between the rad and engine than others have reported on the forum which caused no end of issues fitting an electric fan. I currently have the engine mounts bolted to the front of the chassis brackets. It seemed logical to fit it that way but should (can you) bolt them behind the chassis bracket plate? This would move the engine back 6mm or so which probably still won't be enough. I'll also take a look if I have any shims fitted. I honestly can't remember!