JohnD

Use the old outer race as a mandrel (?) On top of the new. Spreads the load, prevents misstrokes damaging the new. You can get the new almost all they way in that method. John

As said above, a BFH will fix when a press won't. John

Thanks for feeding back. All the advice in the world is useless unless we know what works. John

The oil seal is in the cover. It runs on the nose spacer, one of which's faces has a chamfered edge. You can leave it on the crank and push the seal and cover back on, chamfer OUT OR Mount the cover without the spacer, and push in in after, chamfer IN. The leak is likely to be from your DPO being too hamhanded when tightening the lower bolt that secures the cover. It goes into the alloy bridge piece and Triumph should have used a Coarse thread, but they didn't and it strips. Consider buying a new, steel copy if it has. John

I think the original was in the same austerity hardboard material that was under the dashboard etc. Plywood OK but as you have a tankful of fuel back there, follow motorpsort practice a put in a metal sheet? Aluminium sheet of that size often found at metal recyclers, and aavalibale for a third the price of new sheet - it won't be visible so condition not important. John

Indeed, one block ruined by an under-reading torque wrench, so nip them up! The TR manual cites 60lbs-ft, and my wrench was adding 30% to that. And yes, try to turn the stuck bolt/stud both ways, tighten/loosen. The movement may be small at first, but work it, all the way out. It's like using a tap - the swarf must be cut out by a reverse turn to continue, else it gets jammed. Like swarf, there is 'stuff', corrosion or whatever in the threading, and to and fro turning will help redistribute it. If the bolt/stud starts to squeal as you turn it, STOP! Reverse some way, lubricate, continue with the to and fro outwards. The squeal is a sign of binding, and if you continue the bolt may fail - possibly again! John PS and check your torque wrench every year!

A stud remover tool? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS7232-Stud-Remover-Installer/dp/B00360YQGU http://www.ciponline.co.uk/miscellaneous-products-c64/miscellaneous-products-c445/draper-6mm-stud-extractor-model-no-yses-1-p58139/s59790?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=draper-6mm-stud-extractor-model-no-yses-1-dra58708&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&gclid=CjwKEAiAmJvBBRDKpP724LigwngSJAAYRJXBRqM7NFinIAXBYLFSHz7k286qCdeElhs5xBsJRZ3OFBoC9Pjw_wcB neither exactly break the bank. John

You would have good precedent - the Le Mans Spitfires had a scoop, which for the reasons I gave didn't add much. See: http://www.jigsawracingservices.co.uk/body.htm John

E=mc^2! But that doesn't help unless you have a flux capacitor. John

Aidan, In front of the windscreen is a pocket (vortex) of higher pressure air. This is tapped by the standard air intake for the heater/cabin ventilation. My 'tubes' (if you can't see what they are, may I direct you to the rain water collection department of your local DiY store?) are there because the air shoots sideways off the windscreen, away from the A-post. They are just long enough to tap that flow and draw air in, and the velocity will draw air out if they are reversed. The air in the vortex below the windscreen is relatively slow moving, so no collection device is necessary, the pressure will drive the air flow, whereas my tubes depend on velocity. Doug, My apologies! I read your Post 4 to mean that you had done all those things! Very much worthwhile, before you try more technical solutions. The different thermals were infrared rays from the sun, just like a greenhouse. Can't keep those out! Plus, I've removed the heater, so no means of demisting, and my tubes are great at that! Silverback's radiator vented out of the rear hatchback: Assisted by two small-lorry fans: and the water was pumped to the back via an oil/water cooler by a Davis-Craig water pump The point was to reduce the airflow under the car, reducing lift. Alan, You misunderstand me. I wouldn't handle the hot manifold, down pipes or the tail pipe without asbestos gloves. Heat shields for the carburettors are definitely a good idea, or move to Pi. What I do say is that the radiation of heat from that hot tail pipe, or the gearbox between it and the cover, is trivial, and cannot account for the need for shorts in a GT6! Radiation depends on both temperature difference and area, and a circular section pipe has a relatively small area for its volume. Radiators flatten, multiply and add fins to the pipes in them, to increase that area, to get heat out, and would not be effective without that. A simple pipe is a poor radiator - small bore central heating pipes are uninsulated, because the increase in surface aea from the insultation would lose more heat than leaving them naked! My Silverback experiment proved this about the exhaust pipe, although that wasn't why I did it! Pete, Egg frying on the gearbox? My dear old thing! Your taste buds have been corrupted by the 20/50 you use for Brylcreem! Seriously, egg frying requires at least 130C, which is hotter than the engine gets. 80C for a gearbox would be more usual. Still too hot to handle, but not scalding. 100C would be scalding - boiling water. Please note, what I say is backed up by actual experience of a rear-radiatored car, not by supposition and assumption. John

I've repeated this so many times - ALL the heat that gets into the driving area comes from the radiator as hot air, and gets in there via poorly sealed holes and slits in the bulkhead and gearbox cover. NONE comes from the exhaust pipe, or the gear box. Why can I say this with such authority? Because I built Silverback, an estate 'Vitesse' with the radiator in the back. That car was cold to drive, because all the hot air went straight out through the tail gate. Even under racing conditions, the gearbox and exhaust, let alone the heat radiated by the block, were a trivial contributor to cabin heat. You say, doug, that you have sealed all the bulkhead holes and where the gearbox cover meets the floor pan, and it's still hot in there. I suggest you need to look for leaks harder! In hot weather, a different kettle of thermals, it gets hot in there. My solution is holes in the windows, that carry right angled tubes. These may be rotated to capture air into the cabin, or suck it out. See below, in capture mode. JOhn

I've mentioned this before, but in this context no harm in a repeat. And it's straight from Kastner's books. If you KNOW that the outer rim has not moved on the rubber - TDC on the scale corresponds with TDC on No.1 piston - then drill a hole into the depth of the Vee, right down into the inner hub of the pulley. Check that you can drop a split pin, or a length of wire in. In future, checking is just dropping the pin again. If it won't go, the pulley is a no-no! John

Cold start with rad cap off. Revving should cause a gush of coolant into the rad head tank. That's about it. I fitted a Davies-Craig water pump because of overheating under stress. Ground off the vanes in the mechanical pump, so that acts now as just an idler for the alternator drive belt. Result, excellent cooling under all conditions. John

Do you have the fairings that direct the airflow from the intake to the radiator matrix, without it leaking round the sides? I have heard of GT6 owners who found they are essential. But then your temp was fine while running - now you're just stressing about the heat while the engine is stationary! The coolant "thermo-siphons" and radiates from the radiator, even without air flow. If that worries you, then fit an electric fan with with a timer to keep in running for a fixed period after you switch off. Many moderns do this, but of course you rely n the battery for this. John

Most chemists sell thermometers that go up to 40C, because if your body temp gets any higher, it will soon cool down again, 'coz you is dead! An oven thermometer reading up to 200C would be more useful, but they tend to be designed to be stuck into meat or pies, so would struggle with the temp of the surface of a hose, or tyre for that matter. John

Come on, keep up! The domed pistons on a GT6 meant that a head, unmodified from a TR6, with larger chambers, would achieve a suitable CR, because the domes take up space in the chamber and make it in effect smaller. I think that a TR6 head will slot right onto your GT6. BUT, you should measure the chambers, and do the sums, not forgetting to subtract the dome volume. JOhn

I think that the largest inlet valves were on the 2.5Pi saloons, and that their later heads had a better throat profile This chart from Chris Witor's website may help head ID: http://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/head_applications_chart.pdf See Chris' site also for throat profiles. You can use larger inlet valves by recutting the seat, when you should have steel seat inserts fitted, else lead-less valve recession may occur. JOhn

There's an echo in here! See post 2 John

The first step in any investigation of a "hot" engine should be, is it really hot? The gauge is reliable, but the sensor is not, nor is the "voltage stabiliser". Failure of the last will give a "hot" reading, and the sensor can fail in a several ways. Check that the VS is delivering either 0V-12V-0V- as it should (averaging 10V if you have a suitable voltmeter), or a steady 10V if you have a modern transtorised one. Buy an infrared thermometer 'gun' (less than £30 these days) and measure the temperature in the hoses and water pump housing. Check the reading against that known temperature, or else by removing the sensor and setting it up on the bench in a water bath on a camp stove. Bench set up What the response should be What it shouldn't be John

"the GT6 mk3 head is shallower than the mk2 (GT6?) because of the mk3's domed pistons" Shurely shome mishtake? Think about it, just for a moment. Shallower head = smaller chambers Smaller chambers = higher CR PLUS domed pistons = higher CR Fit the smaller head AND domes and your CR will be about 14:1. Fine, if you run on pure alcohol (not even 10% in petrol), but it will pink a bit otherwise. It's the other way about, as I said above. GT6 Mk2 and early Mk3 = shallow head. John

Different front valance. Different Radiator? But, what madness rules in brainsick men when for so slight and frivolous a cause such factious emulations shall arise? Surely your plan is to fit the Vitesse engine and bonnet to your Herald? JOhn

I don't think there is, but I'm glad to be corrected. John Thomason, in his Originality book (£12 to £194 on Amazon!) says that from KC10001, Triumph rationalised their head range for six cylinders, to fit the T2000 head that had bigger chambers and a lower CR than the GT6, but fitting domed pistons to the latter to raise the compression towards, but not to, the earlier level. It detuned the GT6. How did T2000s have "bigger chambers? By being taller, like a TR6 head. With no evidence, I think that those T2000 heads were TR6 heads, in which the longer stroke and larger displacement would have delivered a higher CR than in a 2L engine. Why did they do this? To reduce production costs. The head castings were ground down to a flat block-facing surface, from blanks that were identical for all their six cylinder engines. More time, more complexity of parts ID and more cost if their were two or three types of head. The stud patterns are identical, as are the ports. But your engine must have domed pistons of you will end up with a CR of about 7:1. Even if your GT6 MkIII is after KC10001, check that an earlier engine has not been fitted. But even if you don't have domes, you can get the head skimmed back to GT6 spec. and it will become a GT6 head, 40 years later! JOhn

Which is why I wrote what I did. JOhn

Both Halfords and Motorsport Tools have special offers on sockets sets at the moment, MSP Tools are Facom and Beta, Halfords their own, new "Advanced" range. Worth a look! http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/socket-sets?cm_re=Featured-_-feature2-_-socketsets http://www.motorsport-tools.com/workshop-equipment-tools.html JOhn

Have you asked local council about a lock-up? They don't have light,power or water and usually forbid work going on in them (to prevent them being used as business premises) but if storage is all you need.... John