JohnD

I don't think there is, but I'm glad to be corrected. John Thomason, in his Originality book (£12 to £194 on Amazon!) says that from KC10001, Triumph rationalised their head range for six cylinders, to fit the T2000 head that had bigger chambers and a lower CR than the GT6, but fitting domed pistons to the latter to raise the compression towards, but not to, the earlier level. It detuned the GT6. How did T2000s have "bigger chambers? By being taller, like a TR6 head. With no evidence, I think that those T2000 heads were TR6 heads, in which the longer stroke and larger displacement would have delivered a higher CR than in a 2L engine. Why did they do this? To reduce production costs. The head castings were ground down to a flat block-facing surface, from blanks that were identical for all their six cylinder engines. More time, more complexity of parts ID and more cost if their were two or three types of head. The stud patterns are identical, as are the ports. But your engine must have domed pistons of you will end up with a CR of about 7:1. Even if your GT6 MkIII is after KC10001, check that an earlier engine has not been fitted. But even if you don't have domes, you can get the head skimmed back to GT6 spec. and it will become a GT6 head, 40 years later! JOhn

Which is why I wrote what I did. JOhn

Both Halfords and Motorsport Tools have special offers on sockets sets at the moment, MSP Tools are Facom and Beta, Halfords their own, new "Advanced" range. Worth a look! http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/socket-sets?cm_re=Featured-_-feature2-_-socketsets http://www.motorsport-tools.com/workshop-equipment-tools.html JOhn

Have you asked local council about a lock-up? They don't have light,power or water and usually forbid work going on in them (to prevent them being used as business premises) but if storage is all you need.... John

And I'm not talking 6-7K,just running it up the revs as quick as it will,against so e work, upbhill if poiss. And a few mway miles. No revving tbenuts off!

OE were ordinary hex head bolts, are all yours round headed Allen's? John

Was this the big Allen key plug in the end of the main oil gallery? If it was leaking, but not loose then maybe take it out and inspect it and the threads? You won't lose more than the small amount of oil in the gallery. If nothing seen, then replace with some thread sealer, and cross fingers! The other source of a leak is the top bolt that secures the crank seal, which should have a copper washer on it, as the hole goes right through into the crank case. JOhn

If you don't want your engine bay to look like a bathroom towel rail (just envious of your skills, Marcus!) find and visit your local hydraulics supplier. Their "rubber hoses" are built to take pressures orders of magnitude greater than our piffling oil pressures, for similar liquids and the connectors are swaged on to suit both. Make sure that both ends can be tightened without twisting the hose (there is a descriptive name but I've forgotten) or you'll never fit it! JOhn

Put your paranoid away, doug! It's not common, but such a problem when it happens that I thought this was useful. John

Ah, Wiki! To end all smut, here is the splice, for making an eye in the length of a line. I think all can see why it has that name, but let us use the suggested euphemism, cut splice. JOhn

A stud, or bolt, broken off flush with the face of a part, is a nightmare for the worker with limited tools. The solution suggested usually includes drilling the stud with progressively larger bits, until the stud or bolt falls apart inside the hole, a job that really requires a well equipped machine shop, and the accuracy and skill of an experienced technician. Without those, it is so easy to ruin the hole and the thread. As some have found the other solution, the "E-Z out" extractor, a conical bit with a reverse thread that you screw into a hole drilled in the stud end, usually breaks, and being tool steel makes the problem worse. So here's a way out: This expert craftsman uses a TiG welder to build up the lost shaft of the stud and weld a nut onto that new shaft. Not many of us will have TiG, but MiG is more available and I think could do the job as well. He also uses extreme care and is gentle with the stuck stud, winding it to and fro to ease it out (!). The next time I'm faced with this problem, I shall try to use this technique, and as they say at political conferences, I recommend it to the audience!. JOhn

Wow, the robot censor on this site must be turned off or set very low indeed! No, I've never heard of that term, Colin, please explain, if only so that we can avoid it! John

True, but also true that if you get that forgetful, maybe you shouldn't be driving?

I don't, yet!

IF there is that amount of wear in the dizzie, then a rebuild would be good. Distributor Doctor: http://www.distributordoctor.com/ JOhn

I now have a list of messages dating back to September 2014 in my mail box above. So I don't think they get deleted after a certain time. JOhn

They are even cheaper on eBay. Worth a punt? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Handle-Auto-Flashlight-Safety-Hammer-Glass-Breaker-Seatbelt-Cutter-Aid-Cane-/182256052451?hash=item2a6f4ea8e3:g:rawAAOSwaB5XuCO9 John

Quote "Start measuring voltages big drop over the solenoid." Is this between the two big terminals with big cables going to them to battery and starter? There should be NO volts to the starter unless the solenoid is activated. Or is it between the White wire with a red stripe going to the solenoid, and earth? That's the actuating wire, from the ignition switch, and should have no volts unless you actuate it with the ignition switch. JOhn

Indeed! Returning to the OP, and JJ's Oscar-winning performance as a doddery old codger, these devices look like a good idea for those afflicted by difficulty getting in and out of cars. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=car+cane&tag=googhydr-21&index=aps&hvadid=83863258357&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1504678794640791089&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006854&hvtargid=kwd-48378696168&ref=pd_sl_6n0mqj7ki_e Several rival products, all that hook onto the door catch loop on the B-post to give you a 'leg-up', as it were. John

I know a race driver who is older than John, so genuinely wracked by arthritis that driver changes almost needed an engine lift, yet was at Classic Le Mans this year and setting better than respectable lap times! It's not the age on your driving licence, it's how old you are in your head! John (29 and 3/4)

If cause was faulty plug, all you need is an "Italian tune-up", a blast as fast and hard as you can! If there was another cause, deal with that first, then the "Tune-up". I recommend such "Tune-ups" at least once a week! JOhn

DrKai, As you will know, diagnosis is not a matter of inspiration but investigation. And for electrical problems what you need is a multimeter! And a circuit diagram. Start at the battery and work along the circuit that has failed, testing for Volts. There will be a very slight drop as you move away from the battery, due to the small resistances in wires and connectors, but somewhere you will find a sudden drop or no Volts. Between the last good test point and now is your fault. The symptoms and history (see the similarity to medical diagnosis?) you have given us. Now a differential, that either a fuse has blown, or a connection failed. There are no fuses on the starter circuit, or the ignition, but the ignition switch has a live feed from the battery, a thick brown wire. Is it live, 12V or the same as battery, at the switch, with your multimeter? If not work back from there, according to your GT6 model. JOhn

Maybe rope would be more resilient, but using the starter could damage the engine. I won't post it again but I have a BENT CONROD - it's framed on my garage wall - to remind me not to do this with oil in the cylinder. Breaker bar on the crank pulley nut would be safe. John

Studs don't seize in the block, or the head to the block, it's gubbins in the rather wide holes around the head studs that lock the head in place. None alone offer much 'stickyness' but as a whole the head becomes immovable. That's why removing the studs, one by one, will free the head. Rust fluid will, IMHO, achieve b*gg*r all. Tapping the top of the stud, preferably with a BFH and using a giant's tap, would be more useful. Putting in new studs. I have ruined a good block by torquing a stud in and cracking the block, but later I found my torque wrench was underreading by 30%! So check your torque wrench if you do torque them in. Should you? Finger tight is asking for trouble; a light tweak with a wrench on the stud gripper may be fine. Haynes gives no torque value for them, which may be where this arises. My Original Mk 1 GT6 manual says 42-46lbs-ft, my facsimile Spitfire Mk IV manual syas 46lbs-ft. Your choice. John

jimmy, here's a pic of the strut across the rear of the panel inserted behind where the rear seat goes. OE, a cardboard sheet, it must be metal for competition. You can see, I hope, the way that one end of the strut has a bracket, bolted to the side, and that it is drilled, with threaded plates welded on, to take the anchor bolts. This was on my disc. I'll take more if you wish. John