Pete Lewis

you say its only a crude measurement at +0.003" is neither here not there if it was +020" then youre heading for troubles getting the sump off on a vitesse is a good faf , you need to raise the lump a lot to get the sump pan to clear the oil pump at +003" i would sleep easy Pete

take a cheese sandwich , flask of coffee and your PHONE and enjoy the ride home Pete

on a mk2 you generally need a spring lifter to raise the spring enough to align the holes for th pivot pin if you have CV joints then one needs to telescope and you dont have to fight the rotaflex Pete

there is a problem in that most of whats sold is just an elctronic switch rather then the mechanical switch of the std.points most are just not "electronic" just saves the errors of points setting and reduces maintenance , it can revive a worn dizzy cam spindle errors. they are and i used them clouded in some magical myth ....there isnt one agree love em or hate em rules apply , so can be a sort of must have !! divide cost by miles covered and points win on saving you £££s pete

they are not that expensive 10.95 +vat +postage to dublin James Paddock Limited - Triumph Stag, Spitfire, TR6, TR7, GT6, Vitesse, Herald Parts and Spares Specialists. REAR WHEEL BEARING KIT(GHK1029)

Canley classics and james paddock always have a good reputation take car where you send the car use a mickey mouse puller and they will most likely bend the hub there is a dedicated puller available if they have a press take the whole assy off and press shaft out . Pete

agree its a level /filler best done parked on the level ground, access can be a fiddle , easy if the tunnel is off many make a access opening in the tunnel so checking is made easier the input shaft is quite likely a scroll not an oil seal so parked on inclines can show up as a leak when not running , as needs to rotate to spin the oil back into the case . the advantage is ,,,,,it cant wear out . the diff also has a level/filler located just behind the N/s drive output shaft best accessed by removing the rear wheel and look through the chassis. Pete

i remember repairing my cousins ford prefect e93a 3 speed box back in the 60s take the top off and look in ......hardly any parts just space and oil and an odd gear or two . Pete

all the 3 rail and other boxes have as jonny says a paper gasket agree the copper washer leak would be into the clutch hsg, your leak is from the gasketed joint some use a sealed this is not best as the faces can pant/shuffle and the sealer fails the bolts become almost loose if you use a sealer on the paper gasket use a hardsetting like wellseal no slippy silicon stuff Pete

must try harder Pete

pictures off the ground are not going to help us with any solution one thing i would check is jack in the centre of the rear axle and check for lean at the front then jack in the centre of the front and check for lean at the back one culprit is a bent anti roll bar best disconnect on end see if that makes a change with the car on the ground does the supposed sag change if you reverse incorrect rear toe will affect the wheel and body heights as the tyres try to converge or diverge depends on excess toe in toe out at the rear Pete

big saloon/TR box is way more butch but wont fit in the small chassis cars without a lot of main rail modifications Pete

there are 3.4" and 2,6" the std one rimmer sell both as said the column is not fixed it sits in a clamp that allows it to collapse so get hold of the outer column and give it a firm shove /push wiggle in towards the dash it will and is supposed to shift under load the inner shaft also has a slip joint which also collapses under load this shaft joint has a simple but accurate way to set it up but yes they all will move in /out from the dash if you persuade it firmly do you have a workshop manual always usefull there are copies on line from steve http://vitessesteve.co.uk/Servicemanuals or get proper re prints from club shop or market places and a thought if the wheel is too close to the ring then the pencil will seem too long Pete

Hi unravelling previous owner misguided jobs can be a seasons work of finding the snags and making a solution its called the fun of ownership Ha! you seem to be on course for a smile when out in the Herald get to know the car for a season before you jump into any wild repairs or refits Pete

agree all components and pivots /shafts need a good pry bar with wheels/axles at running heights no hanging down . on bearings its often noticed when spun by hand but there are two bearings in the trunion block the main single row ball bearing and the needle rollers that steady the trunion the ball race is a loose fit in the hsg. but very tight on the drive shaft this can take some work to shift it . there is an adaptor to work with the hub puller to help it can be done with a big vice and a big birmingham screwdriver , on refit use the hub /shaft nut to reposition the trunion bearing and its back plate ,there is no location /positioning shoulder on the shaft Pete

i would suggest its best to remove the trims plenty of wax on the clips when replacing Pete

see your other posting needs more gap between wheel and column short pencils are available there are two lengths available Pete

the horn blowing will be due to lack of clearance between handwheel and the switch cowling get hold of the outer tube and give it a firm wriggle downwards the column and tube are colapsible so they will move with strong firm efforts there are two lengths of pencil long and ...short buy a short one Pete

the fact it varies dependant on the load does sound like wheel bearing ,thats a common way to identify which side, as its rear have look at the shoes has the shoe been making contact with the drum centre ??? remind me this isa MK1 ?? not rotaflex ?? back plate can be incorrectly positioned on a MK1 shaft Pete

you are right to keep quiet you need to know these littles cars sit out there and listen so they can catch you out so keep mum !!!! Pete

You have to take the opening quarter light frame out Pete

thats where rent a crowd come in handy you will need a spare pair of hands and maybe a few beers handy !! Pete

and they only mention of mileage is "low" i didnt spot any actual numbers Pete

there is not a lot of clearance between the carier bolts and the coupling i had one unscrew and it locked the propshaft the bolts are 4 off special wedgelok with a tapered shank as the carrier holes are bigger than the 3/8 bolt thread and must use a internal star washer as they are 'thin' Bolt - 132856 | Rimmer BrosBolt Shakeproof Washer Internal 7/16" - GHF324 | Rimmer Bros if a std 3/8 bolt has been used you can run into a very noisy trouble when it unscrews and the diff wont be correctly mounted with a skinny bolt in a big hole !!!! Pete

yes replied Pete