Pete Lewis

do we start Twiddle days again ???? Peter

Im on a diet !!!! Pete

its not as if there are any service jobs beyond the realms of diy with a few idea from a wsm. it makes no sense to not have an Mot /safety check who ever knows if the brakes are balanced or even inoperative a simple MOT gives you all youneed to know be responsible is the clues here Pete

how ever you fit/align it is most important the tubular bush in the rear lug is positioned to be equally spaced either side of the lug this allows shift due to heat expansion get it wrong and you will break the rear lug off dump the regulator and just use a higher grade wire direct from alt to the solenoid just join (small) the warning lamp wires from the regulator together to use the orig warning lamp Pete

if the screw is tightly peened over on the split then you wont loosen them the answer is when fitting to let them close fully and the self centre then nip the screws up and check before peening the slots over Pete

would think its fine and well aged before GL5 became available Pete

later floats have a riveted double arm to operate a LHor RH float position these can easily get clipped in upside down and that makes problems even if the 18mm is correct. there are some good pictures on buckeye triumphs under carbs , this site is aimed at TR but the basics are the same Pete

there is no inherent cause for any float needle to fail other than damaged seating, debris. foreign bodies of a float problem have to say with the Vit6 on solex for 2 yrs and then 18 yrs on strombergs the only flooder i have had was the 2000 on darn HS4s and that was the float platform wear ridges ,new floats and thats been surprisingly fine for 8 years regardless of who's or what E fuel is used both just start on the button once you hand prime the chambers full. alway use stuff like gates barricade hose and the dreaded slivers wont get generated use cheap crap of a market place and expect headaches the 2000 is still on original 50yr old fuel hose ....stuff triumph made to a specification that works so much hose sold with reputed R numbers is generally ......just rubbish Pete

from memory club shop did/have used brake engineering for supplies

the vitesse post with a saggy rear has 14x6 just too big 13 x 5.5 on a Vit are about the best look and make a tyre fit correct too Pete

we had the same on the Vit6 had 14" on the 2000 so i could fit stag disc/ calipers as far cheaper than 2000/2500 parts like half the price pete

agree the lever is pretty tough but I would like a £ for every bent one ive come across in the past 20 yrs it is quite common if the gears fail to mesh i guess there is enough leverage via the gear stick to deform it and they take some heat and persuasion to reform . Pete

many use the 175/70 as close to the original rolling radius but a bit fat on a 4.5 rim Pete

Colin what type of fish do you now keep in yours Ha ! and fish stuff is often very cheap Pete

they advise no left foot you need to let the brakes work as intended not fight braking against the throttle . on a modern with abs,and all the other control techy nightmares using the brake with throttle open will confuse the sh1t out of the management ecu and you will get a load of warnings that need clearing so if in your modern you need to test the brakes after fording ...dont use the accelerator at the same time Pete

the link pipe is probably best to just use a bit of fuel hose it doesnt have to be clear as for the slime its more to do with stale washer fluid than the pipe material any basic sw tube should give a few years use Pete

Im sure you will soon get the smile and spring is just round the corner iits more likely to see more of us out to watch the daffodils Ha Pete

that was Jonny Cash one piece at a time Pete

just use your ears as said simpluze Pete

thanks Doug saved me cranking up the tin snail desktop going to try a better processor next week should mean i dont have time to make a sandwich between clicks its W10 and hard drive but very little stored but it needs an enema Pete

all new pads and shoes do need to bed it to be best effective there is a mintex requirement i have posted a few times but im on laptop now and i dont have the link some just need normal useage and some need more aggressive bedding to condition the pad surface ., mintex1144 need some serious stops , if you get them smoking its a stop too far but getting some good heat in makes them work well tere after when im on the desktop i will post the bedding clues tomorrow make of it what you will Pete

Dave this is your names sake David from canley classics ...keep it quiet Ha ! should be your favourite place for spares Welcome to Canley Classics : Canley Classics Pete

these design SA141 type switches were commonly used in all sorts of applications i have one with a 3" threaded , no idea what to use it on , came off the truck assy line years ago and memory fog now. Pete

i think this has all the hall marks of things like green stuff easy to clean the wheels but hopeless as a brake compound 1144 are the best but as you say pricey, note on the mintex box it will say not for road use as they contain undesirable particles you must bed them in firmly with somefast hard pull ups dont stop let them cool and repeat 2 /3 times then they work like magic good set of std mintex or branded pads may be your answer can be much cheaper and might suit your but steer clear of any green types if you want to have brakes Pete driving

i would with any intermittent noise check for exhaust fouling on the chassis when bit of engine torque tips the engine and you get contact Pete